Please help - lowering and tire/wheel size

[chazz]

Need any info and comments on lowering a 63 step side. I want to lower as much as I can on spring only. I see kits with springs, shocks, etc for around $600. My question is will a 3-5 work without any other mods or is another combo better? also I want stock wheels, 6 lug, 15", what do I need? offset?.... also tire size for this. I know someone out there has done trial and error on this. You can see a photo on my page. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[SCOTI]

3/5 spring only drops are possible. There are also better options depending on the needs. Wheel/tire sizing for a 3/5 drop will be subjective as not everyone has the same tastes.

I would recommend you sift through some of the builds and/or 'lowered truck' picture threads for a combo that appeals to you. Copy & post that pic up so people can help achieve you goal.

[chazz]

Thanks Scoti for your reply. I plan a 3-5 spring only. drop. The wheels Im looking for, just steel, need advice on tire size. Looking for stock or ??

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chazz

Thanks Scoti for your reply. I plan a 3-5 spring only. drop. The wheels Im looking for, just steel, need advice on tire size. Looking for stock or ??

Do you need to rotate the tires or wanting staggered sizes front & rear?

[chazz]

Scoti, doesn't matter. I've seen both and like both. Just want something cool.

[SCOTI]

3/5 drops still need good height rubber so there's no large gap in the wells. I like 7" wheels in front, w/8's out back. 225/70's for the front. 255/70's for the rear. 4" backspace for each should be about right.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

3/5 drops still need good height rubber so there's no large gap in the wells. I like 7" wheels in front, w/8's out back. 225/70's for the front. 255/70's for the rear. 4" backspace for each should be about right.

+1

[C1ph3r]

Thank you for this thread. I had the same question about tire size. I'm planning on going air ride but tires should be the same. I'll be running 15" wheels also. Actually I was thinking a slightly different tire like a 255/60 out back?

Screw Disney World. This forum is the happiest place on Earth.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by C1ph3r

Thank you for this thread. I had the same question about tire size. I'm planning on going air ride but tires should be the same. I'll be running 15" wheels also. Actually I was thinking a slightly different tire like a 255/60 out back?

Screw Disney World. This forum is the happiest place on Earth.

I use gap between the tire/fender & gap between the bumpstops/1st contact surface when ultimately deciding.

If an air-ride equipped vehicle is driven @ typical static drop heights (or very close to) then I would use a similar OD when choosing tires between the two options. A 255/70 vs a 255/60 is a diff of 2" in height so the gap is visually noticed. I always opt for the tallest tire when possible.

225/70-15 = 27.4
255/60-15 = 27.04
255/70-15 = 29

[C1ph3r]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I use gap between the tire/fender & gap between the bumpstops/1st contact surface when ultimately deciding.

If an air-ride equipped vehicle is driven @ typical static drop heights (or very close to) then I would use a similar OD when choosing tires between the two options. A 255/70 vs a 255/60 is a diff of 2" in height so the gap is visually noticed. I always opt for the tallest tire when possible.

225/70-15 = 27.4
255/60-15 = 27.04
255/70-15 = 29

Thank you so much. I guess one other thing i was thinking was with the bags fully dumped, or riding as low as possible, i would have a little more fender to tire clearance with the smaller tire. Guess I have some difficult choices to make.

Not to hijack the thread and get to far OT, but when it comes to blocks in regards to wheel size, can one even run a 2" block out back w/ 15" rims and stay within the safe scrub zone in the event of a flat? Sorry the question is on my mind and I haven't gotten to searching to much on it yet.

Thanks again SCOTI. I have read many of your post and always find them informative. There are some really friendly and knowledgeable folks around here. Hopefully I will get to meet some of you. Looks to be a few in my area.

[SCOTI]

Lot's of guys run 2 or even 3" blocks so it can be done. Is it safe? No. But people blur the line between safe/un-safe based on their assembled parts & usage. I wouldn't run more than a 1.5" block when utilizing 15" wheels.

Another alternative is using some aftermarket truck arms from Porterbuilt. Their construction allows 3" drop w/the same clearance as an OE truck arm/shorter block & 15" wheels.

[C1ph3r]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Lot's of guys run 2 or even 3" blocks so it can be done. Is it safe? No. But people blur the line between safe/un-safe based on their assembled parts & usage. I wouldn't run more than a 1.5" block when utilizing 15" wheels.

Another alternative is using some aftermarket truck arms from Porterbuilt. Their construction allows 3" drop w/the same clearance as an OE truck arm/shorter block & 15" wheels.

Great to hear. I prefer safe. This thing will be my DD and used for road trips with the wife. So it has to be safe. Great to hear about Porterbuilt. I was planning on building my suspension around there stuff. This helps me make my decision as to prioritizing how I get from stock drums to disk with 2" spindles to bags. Thanks again man.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by C1ph3r

Great to hear. I prefer safe. This thing will be my DD and used for road trips with the wife. So it has to be safe. Great to hear about Porterbuilt. I was planning on building my suspension around there stuff. This helps me make my decision as to prioritizing how I get from stock drums to disk with 2" spindles to bags. Thanks again man.

Porterbuilts front a-arms are worth the $$ as well. The machined Delrin bushings pivot w/minimal friction & make reassembly easier (you can install the shaft, then lift the arm into place easily installing each bushing vs manuvering the whole factory assembly into place when securing the u-bolts).

[C1ph3r]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Porterbuilts front a-arms are worth the $$ as well. The machined Delrin bushings pivot w/minimal friction & make reassembly easier (you can install the shaft, then lift the arm into place easily installing each bushing vs manuvering the whole factory assembly into place when securing the u-bolts).

I will keep that in mind. I have to do this in stages and plan it out so not to buy things more than once. The plan so far is - disk conversion with drop spindles >>> bag the rear to maintain payload capacity and level rear with front >>> then full bags all the way round and get as low as i can. it will probably be a while before i get to that last part.

[chazz]

Any concern with any cross member or ??? when doing a 3-5 spring drop?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chazz

Any concern with any cross member or ??? when doing a 3-5 spring drop?

Not really. The front x-member & lower a-arm pivot point is the lowest thing up front but that doesn't become an issue until about 5+ inches of drop.

The 5" rear 'spring-only' drop will benefit from relocating the shocks so that they can work correctly. Check in the FAQ/Truck Tech section for several DIY solutions. Porterbuilt & No Limit have nice relocation kits if you want other options. Just don't swap in 'drop shocks' to the factory location. You want as much shock travel as possible w/the correct geometry for optimum ride quality.