Repro doors and front fenders, 58 Chevy

[keenebolter]

I'm contemplating getting reproduction door shells and front fenders for a 58 task force. I'm well aware that I can repair what I have but I'm more curious to know how the newer repro stuff fits. I'm hoping to hear from others that have used the repro door shells and or 58/59 front fenders and what kind of fitment issues they may have run into, if any. I have searched the web looking for some type of review on these repro pieces with no results. So I'm thinking if I can't find much for complaints then perhaps they must be fitting pretty well? If you have tried them out then let me know what ya think of them and where you got them. Thanks!

[ptc]

Ive used the Dynacorn products and they have the most complete line of parts. If you use all their products, (fenders and doors) they fit up pretty well. If you try and mix and match old with new then not so much.

Choose a direction and go with it....

[dwcsr]

We use and sell Dynacorn doors and they fit well. As said use their parts for the companion pieces and all fits well.

[58CameoAZ]

There is a Guy in my little town that has a 59 stepside and he used a Right front fender
with the rest of his sheet metal(ie;door,hood,front end sheet metal) he said the fit was ok
until he got to the gap at the hood and the fender, said he had to do a little surgery
with the new fender metal to make it look right. I think overall you will have to do some
massaging to the new sheet metal to match up with the old.
Allen

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by 58CameoAZ

There is a Guy in my little town that has a 59 stepside and he used a Right front fender
with the rest of his sheet metal(ie;door,hood,front end sheet metal) he said the fit was ok
until he got to the gap at the hood and the fender, said he had to do a little surgery
with the new fender metal to make it look right. I think overall you will have to do some
massaging to the new sheet metal to match up with the old.
Allen

Good point,, these panels no matter who makes them need a little help and may need some fitting work done. having a 60 year old cab and or other parts bolt right up perfect to newly stamped pieces just doesn't happen. Mating fenders to hoods in particular are an issue because of the complex curves they both have

[Highsider]

Who knows what these old trucks have gone through?
How many wrecks have these been in?
It's a miracle the new parts ever just "bolt right on".

I used LMC.com when the doe creamed my front end.

[keenebolter]

Thanks everyone for the replies. So I guess there is no way around cutting and fitting even with repro stuff? My 58 came to me in pieces with all its original sheet metal except for the front fenders. The fenders are from a 59. I have reassembled the sheet metal I have it fitting pretty well except for the front drivers side fender. The gaps on everything look good and even but for some reason the drivers side fender and the hood touch in the front. The doors are good and rotten at the bottoms inside and out and have old patch panels already. The fenders have bottom patch panels installed from a previous owner and are now solid but have been massaged to remove some good sized dents based on what the metal looks like striped. I was thinking of just starting with new repro fenders and door shells and keeping the rest of the original sheet metal instead of trying to repair original damage and the massaging the previous owner has already done. Seems like two negatives to me me right now. But the cost of the new panels plus the shipping is a hard pill to swallow if I need to do cutting to make the new stuff fit right. I'm new to sheet metal working so I'm looking for the easiest route...I'm not sure I have found it yet! I'm now specifically wondering how easily a new set of front fenders and doors would fit but it sounds like that's a question only I can answer once I have the parts in hand based on many factors like how different these old trucks are from the factory and what 50+ years of work has done to them.

[58CameoAZ]

Just my 2-cents but from what you are describing i would stay with the original
sheet metal and stick with lining up the old instead of going with all new,
complete door bottoms can be had to repair your original doors,and most other repair sheet metal repair panels can be purchased also. also remember fit and finish was not
even that great when these trucks were built and new. the fit and finish on my 59 stepside
was "WAY" off! (what were most of the trucks used for back then? "TRUCKS") fit and finish was more of a concern on the cars back then.
you should check out your Hinge Pocket area also as that is a Notorious area to go bad
and you will get no were on the alignment if this area is not taken care of first for you doors to fit right.
You might try to find someone OR better yet try yourself at repairing the areas!
the money you put into sheet metal could go towards a welder, just saying and your up to the task, and my Hat is off to those that try themselves because to me that is were the Fun is on restoring and fixing these old trucks.
Ok i will get off the soap box! Lol... But good luck and i wish you the best on your truck!
This is a Great Forum to find people that have been in your shoes starting out and have been in the same situation but are there to help you threw.
as was told to me, Don't look at the over all Big picture, just take one area at a time
and look at what Has been fixed and don't be discouraged
Good Luck!
Allen

[Virginian]

carsinc.com claims all their panels are american made, I have not used them yet but was going to buy from them when ready. I saw a few other Places that offer american steel but don't recall the names, but I would at least try to avoid the foreign stuff, I did use taiwan made panels on my 78 truck they did not fit the best, but on a side note they never rusted and I drove that truck many years in the Ohio winters.

[keenebolter]

Thanks for the insight everyone. I am going to give it my best and see if I can repair what I currently have. I'm certainly new to welding and panel repair but I'm excited to learn. I figured though it would be good to have a plan B in case I royally screw things up. I'm currently collecting up the tools I'll need then I'll give it a whirl. Thanks again!

[1-ton of fun]

it depends on how patient you are, but while i was stuck trying to make the same decision, i found 2 good front fenders on craigslist within a couple hundred miles from me.

one looks like it needs no work other than a repaint, but i will see for sure once it is stripped to bare. the second looks to be pretty good,maybe just some dings to work out.

[1-ton of fun]

but both my original ones were rusted badly above the headlight, where there is no repair patch panel made for

[58CameoAZ]

Originally Posted by 1-ton of fun

but both my original ones were rusted badly above the headlight, where there is no repair patch panel made for

I believe they have patch panels for this area now.

[ptc]

Originally Posted by keenebolter

Thanks for the insight everyone. I am going to give it my best and see if I can repair what I currently have. I'm certainly new to welding and panel repair but I'm excited to learn. I figured though it would be good to have a plan B in case I royally screw things up. I'm currently collecting up the tools I'll need then I'll give it a whirl. Thanks again!

If you are building a rat rod, its not a problem to use the use the old beat up parts and practice your body work talents on them.... but

The opposite side of the coin.... If you have a good body shop that you trust , ask them their rate for repairs and to give you a quote on how long it would take to repair fix each piece at that rate ($50-$60 hr). Then compare those costs to the new parts costs and reconsider it overall.

Example: A new front fender is $450 with shipping. Thats only about 7.5 hours at $60/hr to totally repair and prep for paint a fender that is 60 years old and has been hammered to death. (like yours have already been). I dont think a shop is gonna get that done for that amount. It may take 30 or 40 hours to make a fender perfect for a show truck paint job. Thats why people go with new.

Its a big decision to go one way or another and the body is where most people fail and then just give up on the entire project. Dont set yourself up for failure - just sayin....

[keenebolter]

Thats good advice PTC. The local places around me don't seem too interested in repairing panels and are real quick to tell me to buy new replacement panels. That's why I figured I'll give it a try myself and if I fail I'll buy new stuff and try that...then worst case scenario I bring the truck and new parts to an autobody shop and have them fit the panels on. I'm not looking for a show winning truck, I'm hoping to get decent results that I can be proud to say I did all by myself being a shade tree mechanic/ autobody guy. As my wife says "just make it shiny". The fenders I have are not horrible but they certainly have been banged around. I bought a book called "the key to metal bumping" and if you have read that book, I would say the guy who fixed my fenders did it with the "bang em out and smooth em out" method which has left alot of small bumps that make the metal look wavy. The fenders are also pushed in about 1/2" along the whole length of the fender. I'm thinking I might start a new thread and see what others have for recommendations to fix what I have. Just need to find the time to get out in the barn and take some pics. Thanks alot everyone!

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by 58CameoAZ

I believe they have patch panels for this area now.

oh well, i'm picking up my good, old fenders on Saturday.