230ci Extremely Hard to No start

[blown240]

your for sure getting spark?

[Captmatt]

When I got my truck the old tired 230 ran terrible. Hard start, sometimes no start, occasional backfiring, poor idle, very little power. You name it my motor did it. Over the next year I tried everything. Timing, new plugs, new carb, new wires, corrected possible vacuum leeks, new dist parts, new vac advance , fuel pump, well you get the idea. I tried everything. Then I decided to adjust the valve lash. Motor ran like it was brand new and continues to this day to run great. Would not have believed it if I had not seen it with my own eyes.

Just throwing it out there. Good luck

[jayoldschool]

^^^good point. I had a loose rocker nut on my 230, it sounded like the engine was coming apart. One cylinder useless. Free nut from the local machine shop, half hour work, and the thing runs silent and perfect.

[TJ's Chevy]

Good point brought up. Tight valves will cause the progressive or constant rough running problems. My 305 v6 had a couple valves that were tight and sometimes it would run wonderful and others like crap. The adjustment for the 230 is zero lash plus a half turn of preload. Best to adjust when the engine is warm. I'd loosen all the rockers a half turn and see if you can start it. If it will run then let it warm up and you can easily adjust them while it's running. You may consider running right at zero lash and no preload just because it's an old engine. On my 292 I ran a 1/4 turn of preload just to make sure no valves hung open. On my new 292 I'll run a 1/2 since it's got roller rockers. And a lot of people are gonna tell you adjusting the valves with the engine running is messy or the "inexperienced" way,but it's really not. Done it countless times with no problems and I can keep an eye on the rockers while they're moving, and you can do it fairly quick to. Anyhow, hope that solves your problems.

[65 GMC]

I have a 230 in my 64 Chevelle. I had trouble with it being hard to start, when I first bought it. Sometimes it would just crank and crank but never fire over. I traced the problem to the rubber section of fuel line coming off of the tank into the fuel line. It was hard and dried out with small cracks in it.

[Hydra]

I'm on break right now at work (11 hour shift) but when I get back I'll check the valves and double check spark. Also that line on mine is also very hard ,I was trying to replace it but I couldn't get it off and decided running wire through it to clear any blockages was good,but it is getting plenty of fuel.thank you for all the help guys.

[Hydra]

Also,i should've clarified,it goes from a very hard start to no start and after the first no start,doesn't start again until it was fixed and then does the same thing.right now it's at the stage where it crack and doesn't even try and fire,just endlessly cranking.

[vince1]

Back in the early 60's the fuel guy filled our farm tank and didn't empty the hose first of stove oil. Took my dad a long time to figure it out as that 55 Chev wagon with the 261 with three on the tree would hardly start or run at all.

Way back in the 70's during an Edmonton -40 degree winter I had a Ford 289 that wouldn't start. That was cheap fuel at a discount gas place. Next tank of premium at a name brand place and it was fine.

My wife filled up our Astro van with diesel once. The kids in the garage cranked on it so long they burned out the new starter I had put in a few months before. They don't run on diesel either.

If you have compression (did you check?) good fuel and spark at the right time it will go.

[Captmatt]

Dang, sorry your having these issues. When you do get it started it can't hurt to adjust the lash. As TJ said its easy. To make it real easy get a valve cover from the junk yard and cut the top off leaving the sides. Install on engine and bring engine to operating temp ( you won't spill a drop of oil ) loosen rocker nut until you here it clatter ( you'll hear it ) then slowly tighten nut until clatter goes away. This is where different opinions come into play, slowly tighten nut 1 full turn ( this is what the gm book says ) and your good. If you still hear a clatter or odd noise after doing all the valves, use the pipe or stick method to locate which valves(s) are having problems. Gently hold the pipe to the rocker nut and the other end close to your ear. You'll clearly hear where the trouble noise is coming from and at least you'll know which valve(s) are in need of attention.

[Hydra]

Welp its starting very well now. Set the timing at 14 initial just pulled the choke a little and gave it some gas and it fired up on the second try. Now it's firing up consistently and I've actually been able to drive it to work again and go back to normal.Thank you for all the help guys!

[TJ's Chevy]

Glad its running strong again. Good work!

[blown240]

Great news! Was it just timing?