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01-14-2016, 01:07 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Post Falls, Idaho
Posts: 1,757
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S-10 IFS bagged question
OK, I have a Scott Danforth Cross Member going in a 1949 Chevy 3600. His cross member accepts S-10 and Metric donor parts.
The truck will be on bags. Last night I mocked up the S-10 donor parts. According to some rough measurements with a 27" tall tire, and stock spindles my running boards will be about 4" off the ground. I am loosing some travel due to the upper ball joint binding up. So the question is:
I plan on dehumping the Lower Control Arm to accept my bags. |
01-14-2016, 08:09 PM | #2 |
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Location: Post Falls, Idaho
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
Anybody???
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01-15-2016, 04:48 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Louisville,Ky
Posts: 5,811
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
Have you seen these http://michiganmetalworks.com/store/...&product_id=76
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01-15-2016, 08:11 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: somewhere, PA
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
if you have the fab skills, i'm a fan of the pie cut factory parts. i like the look of factory parts in an obviously custom build vs custom parts in a factory car, plus it's like 1000x cheaper for the exact same function.
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01-15-2016, 10:58 AM | #5 | |
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
Quote:
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01-15-2016, 11:07 AM | #6 | |
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Location: Post Falls, Idaho
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
Quote:
I think I am going to give them a shot...... |
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01-15-2016, 01:18 PM | #7 |
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Location: somewhere, PA
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
Love those
I hadn't found those yet ... are they simply angled joints, or do they have more angular travel? |
01-15-2016, 01:42 PM | #8 | |
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Location: Post Falls, Idaho
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
Quote:
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01-15-2016, 01:53 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: somewhere, PA
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Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
gotcha, angled mounting flange ... same angular travel as stock.
just to make sure i have this clear in my head, you would still get the same total wheel travel with these, but that travel would be over a different range. the truck would sit lower at max, but not as high at max. if you need new ball joints, it's a pretty good option but the cut-n-weld is still virtually free and tune-able. when i cut mine, i trimmed the end of the x-member and ditched the lower bumps first. this let me use the physical stop of the lower arm hitting the x-member as my lower limit. then when i cut the uppers, they were bent to exactly match this lower limit giving me the maximum possible extension before that joint topped out again. i actually cut them, bolted them back into the suspension, sat on the x-member to hit the lower limit of the lower arms, bent the upper arm in place til it stopped, and tacked it back together. my way was a lot more work ... |
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