frame paint ?

[poco64]

Ok so i have all the body stripped off my frame should I sandblast and epoxy primer and then paint or power wash, convert the rust and use por brushed on a couple of coats and then paint? thanks a bunch for any advice.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by poco64

Ok so i have all the body stripped off my frame should I sandblast and epoxy primer and then paint or power wash, convert the rust and use por brushed on a couple of coats and then paint? thanks a bunch for any advice.

Media blast if possible.
POR15 brushed as thin as possible X 2 coats
When the final coat of POR15 is nearly dry (like 99% dry) spray a top coat which can be rattle can. Just my 2 cents.

[suburban99]

I used chassis saver on mine...looks good and lasts good..

[ol_skool_chevy]

From what I understand POR15 have no UV protection .....be warned

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

From what I understand POR15 have no UV protection .....be warned

That is correct. POR15 will fade if exposed to UV light. That is why top coating it is important. I used a Rustoleum high temp spray rattle can paint. I chose low gloss black.

[Chevy Fleetside]

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...h-performance/ Check out some of these. You can get most of them at your local Home Depot. I used rustoleum on my frame and it has held up well the past 15 years. I bought the Gal and used a spray gun to apply. Primer underneath.

[Heater63]

Sandblast- will remove 99% of all rust
Use some Ospho (phosphoric acid) on any remaining rust / pits
Prime with epoxy primer
Topcoat

[TJ's Chevy]

I sanded mine to bear metal, epoxy primed and then top coated with black single stage. 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint.

[60chevyjim]

sand blast it and paint it with semi gloss rustoleum paint .
stand it up on its side to sandblast then switch to the other side to get the spots u missed .
paint it with it up on its side then switch to the other side to finish it .
> epoxy primer is only a primer , it's not a finish coat <
this chassis is for my friends 65 chevy c10 long bed that im doing for him.

[Marv D]

Just a mention.... Rustoeum 'SATIN' black looks very very close to the original low-gloss lacquer the factory used on frames and underhood.

[The1960APE]

Add a vote for POR15 with a top coat....a lot of the time I don't even top coat, how many of our frames see direct sunlight? that's like waterproofing your bedroom ceiling.... LOL
The thing about POR15 is that its tough, really tough stuff and holds up to gas, oil, antifreeze etc!
I once done a set of fender wells with a rattle can paint, about ten coats, cut, buffed, rubbed etc. They were a real showpiece! until the very first time I had any type of antifreeze leak, it really damaged the finish.
That was my LAST time using a rattle can for anything, it is just not made for longevity or durability if you are against using POR-15 I would powder coat or get a gallon of professional chassis paint and learn to shoot it!
Doing all that hard work to a gorgeous truck just to have frame paint issues a year down the road because you rattle can painted the chassis is a shame and certainly a major pain to go back and do right once the truck is assembled.

[chevy_mike]

I would blast and epoxy prime, then paint over it. POR15 doesn't always do well on clean metal. It actually wants rust to stick to. That is what POR stands for, Paint Over Rust. I have seen POR15 peal off from clean metal.

[Rust-O-Matic]

I sandblasted mine, then two coats of POR 15, then 2 coats of satin black Vansickle tractor paint from Orscheln's. Once dried, it's crazy tough. Like sledge hammer tough.

I took the lazy way out on the '66 I'm currently working on, and brushed a heavy coat of that same Vansickle right over the pressure washed (but still rusty) frame. It actually looks way better than I expected. We'll see how long it stays on there...

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

sand blast it and paint it with semi gloss rustoleum paint .
stand it up on its side to sandblast then switch to the other side to get the spots u missed .
paint it with it up on its side then switch to the other side to finish it .
> epoxy primer is only a primer , it's not a finish coat <
this chassis is for my friends 65 chevy c10 long bed that im doing for him.

Thats one easy to paint the frame on all sides.

[60chevyjim]

I am doing everything by myself , im 59 I use the engine lift for a helper.
I power washed it with it up on its side using diesel fuel then purple power .
then I grinded as much as possible with my 4 1/2" angle grinder and a cutoff wheel for a grinding disc. this way there was way less to have to sandblast ,
it's very quick and ez doing it this way..

spray painting it was very ez this way and it cost less than $50.00 to paint everything ..
I bought a gallon of flat black rustoleum , and 1 quart of gloss black rustoleum and a quart of acetone to reduce it.
I sprayed everything flat black on all sides . with it up on its side and then I dropped it back on the wheels to finish the first coat. the next day I lifted it up on the opposite side.
and I mixed the quart of gloss black with the 2 quarts of flat black that I had left
and sprayed all sides of the chassis then dropped it back on the wheels and finished it.
this truck is going to be a driver and my friend had not even thought about painting the chassis. that was my idea .

[DakotaKid]

Por 15 will stick to clean metal just fine as long as you follow the instructions. People think that they can just paint over the rust with it, and it will work that way, but the best way to get adhesion is to use their metal prep, or something like Picklex. I have never had Por 15 fail on something that I have used their prep system with.

[BigDan3131]

Blast it and if the weather holds epoxy it but rather than putting two coats of this and two coats of that order this from Amazon: http://www.kilz.com/hammerite/v/inde...008a05d103RCRD it comes in many colors but the real reason to use it isn't printed on the label anymore. It contains ground glass and aluminum and once fully cured is a very tough industrial enamel. Rustoleum is a fish oil based product and can only be coated with other Rusto products. I have been using Hammerite for well over 15 years in both the fence business [where it was subjected to saltwater mist] and the car business painting all suspension part. If there is any rust it traps it in place and seals it away. Its so tough that on a budget I painted a whole truck with it, let dry, sanded it and cleared it. You can't even tell its not automotive grade paint.

[60chevyjim]

here is my 93 gmc 454 tow wagon that I painted for less than $75 using a gallon of red and 2 quarts of black rustoleum and a harbor freight spray gun . I painted it outside last year. I am on a very limited income . so this was the only paint i had enough $$ to buy ..
when I was working I would never paint a car or truck with enamel ever .
i figure if it looks this good on my truck , its good enough for a chassis that no one will even see.

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

here is my 93 gmc 454 tow wagon that I painted for less than $75 using a gallon of red and 2 quarts of black rustoleum and a harbor freight spray gun . I painted it outside last year. I am on a very limited income . so this was the only paint i had enough $$ to buy ..
when I was working I would never paint a car or truck with enamel ever .
i figure if it looks this good on my truck , its good enough for a chassis that no one will even see.

Great truck!! I like the Impala SS wheels..

[dracko]

Another vote for Chassis Saver, really like the antique satin black. stuff goes on nice, even decent with a brush and cures rock hard.

[60chevyjim]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

Great truck!! I like the Impala SS wheels..

thanks !!
the truck was just a flat black rolling body that I rescued before it went to the crusher.
I put it together for a few hundred bucks using parts that I all ready had like the 96 impala SS rims and the 1975 454 with a fresh rebuilt th350 .

[andyh1956]

Originally Posted by BigDan3131

Blast it and if the weather holds epoxy it but rather than putting two coats of this and two coats of that order this from Amazon: http://www.kilz.com/hammerite/v/inde...008a05d103RCRD it comes in many colors but the real reason to use it isn't printed on the label anymore. It contains ground glass and aluminum and once fully cured is a very tough industrial enamel. Rustoleum is a fish oil based product and can only be coated with other Rusto products. I have been using Hammerite for well over 15 years in both the fence business [where it was subjected to saltwater mist] and the car business painting all suspension part. If there is any rust it traps it in place and seals it away. Its so tough that on a budget I painted a whole truck with it, let dry, sanded it and cleared it. You can't even tell its not automotive grade paint.

Big Dan did you use the smooth or the hammered finish? In the smooth they don't have a semi gloss black, just a gloss & flat. I spose I could mix both for semi

[Mtl-Marc]

Originally Posted by Heater63

Sandblast- will remove 99% of all rust
Use some Ospho (phosphoric acid) on any remaining rust / pits
Prime with epoxy primer
Topcoat

This.