'73-'87 Spindle swap ball joints

[J1MMY]

Please can someone post up either the OE or moog part numbers for the ball joints needed to fit '73-'87 spindles onto '63 control arms?

I've scanned through the FAQ's and done a search but can't find this particular info.

Thanks

[Chevy Fleetside]

http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog.aspx Might be easier if you just bought the ECE spindles that work with your 63 ball joints. They have them in 2 1/2 in drop or stock.

[J1MMY]

Thing is, I already have '73-'87 drop spindles so purchase expense notwithstanding the shipping costs to get them over here is money that could be spent on renewing other components.

[Chevy Fleetside]

It is not just the ball joints you also have to get a tie rod end and then you need the adj sleeve also. One of the vendors might sell it and maybe even ECE dose. You just have to make some phone calls and tell them what you need. I believe the stock 73 to 87 ball joints is what you need. Go to a local parts store and buy one and see if it is the same size as your stock ones. The difference will be the stud size for the spindle.

[J1MMY]

I have a whole clip from another '79 that I bought for parts and the steering parts are brand new on there. If all I need are 73-87 ball joints to press on to the 63 arms and everything else is parts from the donor then it's all good!

[Chevy Fleetside]

Just use all the parts from the 79 front end. All the components in my truck came from a 75. Just have to redrill for the idler arm. Measure 14 times drill once. I am guessing you will put power steering in also.

[LostMy65]

Yes, just use the whole 79 cross member - arms and all.

[Chevy Fleetside]

You don't have to change the whole crossmember if you don't want to.

[J1MMY]

I'd rather not do a complete clip swap if it's not necessary and I can use the required parts from the donor.

One thing I am unsure of is how much the spindle change will widen the track at the front. I need to bear this in mind for the change of rims.

Also, which flexi brake lines to use to match up the new hubs to the old hard lines.

[Chevy Fleetside]

You will have to split the hard lines on the brakes and install a proportioning valve. If you have the whole 79 donor you can just take the valve out of that with the lines and they will match up on your truck.
The 79 control arms are 3/4" wider on each side. I used control arms from a 75 and bolted them up to my 65 cross member. I am running 8" rims with a 3 3/4 back space with 255/60/15 tires. The rear end is out of a 72 which is the same width as the front, with the same rims but with 275/60/15 tires.
There is plenty of room. I can take a better front picture and post them later.

[Captainfab]

All you need are '73-'87 C10 ball joints. They will fit the '63-'70 control arms just fine. You could also just change the complete control arms and have the better rubber bushings. If you change your entire steering linkage to the '79 linkage, you won't need those special tie rod couplers. However you will need to drill holes to bolt up the later model idler arm.

I don't remember for sure on the width increase but I want to say it is 3/4" on each side?

[Sik5chevy]

i am doing the same thing to my 65 and i used 75 spindles, 75 ball joints and i took the linkage from the 75 and just put new 1975 tie rods on it. I will have to mount it to the frame. ill probably be posting on here for some guidance when it comes time to mount the linkage or at least get a pic of someone elses sense i didnt do that prior to disassembly. good thing is i replaced and cleaned everything so hoping to finish next week end. i wanted to maintain 6 lug so i bought aftermarket 6 lug rotors. capt fab gave me guidance before i started mine

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

The 79 control arms are 3/4" wider on each side.

Nope, the control arms are the same width from '63-'87. The 3/4" width difference is due to the disc brake spindles. They space the wheels out 3/4" more than drum brake spindles.

[russellrox]

Awesome looking truck man, off topic but what amount of drop are you running on your truck, same stance I am looking for, I already have 3" drop springs in the rear, but unsure on the front, I have 1" drop springs for the 79 front end but it's not low enough, would 2.5" drop spindle and the 1" drop springs look good.

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

You will have to split the hard lines on the brakes and install a proportioning valve. If you have the whole 79 donor you can just take the valve out of that with the lines and they will match up on your truck.
The 79 control arms are 3/4" wider on each side. I used control arms from a 75 and bolted them up to my 65 cross member. I am running 8" rims with a 3 3/4 back space with 255/60/15 tires. The rear end is out of a 72 which is the same width as the front, with the same rims but with 275/60/15 tires.
There is plenty of room. I can take a better front picture and post them later.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Here are a few shots with the tires. with the wider front end. 8" rims with almost a 4" back space.
The front is lowered 3" and the rear 4". The front tires are 255/60/15 and the rear are 275/60/15.

[J1MMY]

Thank you all for your input; Chevy Fleetside, those pics and the wheel specs are super helpful as my next question was going to be regarding rim/tyre combinations and how much people have lowered the truck once they have converted to the later disc setups. Looking at your truck (and damned fine it is too) I am hoping that a 6" wide rim with a conservative - width tyre will tuck in the arches. From what I have read looking through other posts, I am already 3" lower than stock (14" from wheel centre to centre of fender lip) so with drop spindles I'm going to be where I want it to be.

As a slight aside, has anyone had issues with wheel fitment? I.e hitting the control arms with the inside of the wheel tyre or caliber clearance? I trial fitted an 8.5x15" Weld on my '79 and it caught the caliper.

[top dog]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

All you need are '73-'87 C10 ball joints. They will fit the '63-'70 control arms just fine. You could also just change the complete control arms and have the better rubber bushings. If you change your entire steering linkage to the '79 linkage, you won't need those special tie rod couplers. However you will need to drill holes to bolt up the later model idler arm.

I don't remember for sure on the width increase but I want to say it is 3/4" on each side?

Where can you get these special tie rod adjusters and why do you need them I'm going 63 /79 spindles ?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by top dog

Where can you get these special tie rod adjusters and why do you need them I'm going 63 /79 spindles ?

Because 63-70 tie rods are 5/8" diameter.
73-87 tie rods are 11/16" diameter.
(two different thread sizes,...)

CPP sells the tie rod adapters, along with QA-1, and www.performanceonline.com

[stsalvage]

I was looking to swap out my 1968 long horn with disc brakes talked to a guy at CCP he said they make a spindle that will take the 3/4 ton Ball joint and hook up to all the tie roda with out swapping anything you can get it in the 2 inch drop or stock disc bakes on my 3/4 ton longhorn

Then i had a brain fart ?

i asked do they make a spindle that will take a 3/4 ton tall joint for 1/2 ton. He said yes.

Reason why to use 3/4 ton ball joints there stronger.That's why off road trucks like baha race truck use 3/4 to 1 ton ball joints on 1/2 ton race trucks cus they take a beating.

Any one of you ever brake a ball joint on the freeway or going Fast.Ya it really sucks and on lowered trucks it happens all the time

[top dog]

Thanks for the info managed to get the modified adjusters

[canadian_diesel1964]

i did this swap as well...the only issue for me was the lower ball joints being a bit small...i bought oversized lowers and still had to tack them in...then i used the special tie rod couplers...if you go back in my posts you might get part numbers...

[canadian_diesel1964]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=674235