1950 GMC 250 - 1 Ton and Hopeless?

[buckkoo]

The Chevy 235 in my 1 ton GMC has spun a bearing and i was just speaking with a prominent vendor for our old trucks about the best course of action.

I suggested a 261 upgrade, Saginaw trans, late 80s ford van 8 lug rearend for drivability.

His advice was to sell the GMC as is and cut my losses as the 1Ton will always have driving issues, regardless of what improvements I make.

Your Thoughts?

[dwcsr]

Find a different vendor.
3/4 and 1 tons are coming into favor now that there are viable upgrades to the suspension brakes and driveline and the best part is its a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton that you can actually use as a work truck if you want.

I would find a 292 Chevy or the GMC 302 rather than a 261, use what ever trans you want and a ford rear or a 14 bolt of the correct length.. You can upgrade the brakes to 13" disc from a 2500 HD. The rest is the same as 1/2 ton for AC and other options.

[buckkoo]

Yes, I suspect this may be sour grapes on the part of vendors that don't have parts for the bigger trucks.

Another vendor discouraged me from looking at GMC options such as the 270 or 302.

[1project2many]

There are some valid reasons to avoid less common vehicles. Difficulty finding parts and cost to acquire said parts are top on the list. However, it's not like we're talking about Chrysler Turbines, the Buick Y-Job, or original GT-40's here. If you want to build a 1-ton then imo go for it. All the trucks in this family have "driving issues" in stock form compared to today's vehicles. If you don't like how it drives then you can change that, too.

[Virginian]

"his advice"... Your truck, go for the upgrade if that's what you want. I usually ask for advice then do what I want in the end, unless I was tired of the truck I would fix it.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by buckkoo

Yes, I suspect this may be sour grapes on the part of vendors that don't have parts for the bigger trucks.

Another vendor discouraged me from looking at GMC options such as the 270 or 302.

The 50's GMC motor is the same engine design Toyota used in the FJ for 40 some odd years, Parts are harder to find, yes but a later model 6 like the 292 parts are readily available, and how many time do you expect to change major parts like brakes, engines, transmissions,

We finished this truck last year its a 1 ton. We added power steering, AC Disc brake on all 4, that are rated at 8600 lbs. 292 with a SM435 4 speed.

They look the same and are able to tow or move what you want

[DKO]

dwcsr that's a beautiful truck!

[mr48chev]

Maybe if you are looking at the $$ return if you sell it for the $$ invested it makes sense to stick with a 3100 Chevy or 1/2 ton GMC but if you really like the truck and it's in good solid shape except the dead engine who gives a rip what that vendor thinks or if it would "be worth more if----"
Unless you are just bent on having a stock engine truck I'd say go with a 292 like Dave put in the one above or even a 250 if you just want solid reliable power that will get you anywhere you want to go.

Find that 261 if you want to stay with the early engine and rebuild it so it will be good for a lot of years or even rebuild the 235 if it isn't destroyed. It takes a lot of breaking before one is so broken it can't be fixed.

I'd sit down and figure what you future plans for the truck including fixing it up and driving it and how far you plan to drive it and go from there.

Right now a nice 1 ton that can boogie down the road and tow a decent size camp trailer sounds pretty good from where I sit.

[buckkoo]

That's a good looking truck. I'll have to add disc brakes and power steering to the upgrade list.

[buckkoo]

DWCSR,

Tried searching on your posts, but you have a ton of them. Is there a build thread on the 1T? When you say AC Disc, not sure what you mean, saw one guy that adapted chevy 3500 discs and then made custom caliper brackets, is that similar to what you did?

I'll look into 292s, that's probably a more economical choice than a similar GMC.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by buckkoo

DWCSR,

Tried searching on your posts, but you have a ton of them. Is there a build thread on the 1T? When you say AC Disc, not sure what you mean, saw one guy that adapted chevy 3500 discs and then made custom caliper brackets, is that similar to what you did?

I'll look into 292s, that's probably a more economical choice than a similar GMC.

Sorry it air conditioning an disc brakes

These are 2003 up 2500 HD brakes. The kits we make allow you to take off the brake system on a 2500 HD 8600 lb truck and bolt them on you your existing axles and utilize the integral parking brake of the later model truck

The thread for the 1 ton is here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625724

the disc kits and booster info is here
http://www.hollisterroad.com/TechnicalInfo.php

You can always email me or call with questions

[donandal]

dwcsr,
that is a very, very, nice truck!

[dwcsr]

Thanks, I think it my favorite truck so far. It just came out right and in 8 about months I think we were done. It has a lot of one off items in it, the wheels are the original centers converted to tubeless 17", the Power steering, the disc kit we made specifically for this truck. It has USB ports, push button start, some other items. Makes me want a 1 ton for myself so I can look down into those ford 250's and tell them how cute there little truck looks.

[buckkoo]

Thanks for sharing the build threads. It makes me feel better about starting with a good rust free body, I just need everything else...

A few questions: It looks like you kept the original Muncie trans, someone else had suggested substituting a Saginaw 2 groove 4 speed for drivability.

What axle ratio does the 14 bolt have and what did it come out of? Again, someone had suggested a 3/4T Ford van rearend from the late 80s.

I definitely like the 4 wheel disc brakes and need to do more research on the PS.

Also I think the 292 was a great choice, I've been looking at a lot of options; 235, 228, 270, 302, 261, 4200, the 292 seems to make the most sense from a price, performance and installation perspective.

Thanks

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by buckkoo

Thanks for sharing the build threads. It makes me feel better about starting with a good rust free body, I just need everything else...

A few questions: It looks like you kept the original Muncie trans, someone else had suggested substituting a Saginaw 2 groove 4 speed for drivability.

What axle ratio does the 14 bolt have and what did it come out of? Again, someone had suggested a 3/4T Ford van rearend from the late 80s.

I definitely like the 4 wheel disc brakes and need to do more research on the PS.

Also I think the 292 was a great choice, I've been looking at a lot of options; 235, 228, 270, 302, 261, 4200, the 292 seems to make the most sense from a price, performance and installation perspective.

Thanks

Its a SM435 after 47. 47 down did not have the syncros in them so its really a 3 speed with a granny low gear that you only need if you dragging home a vending machine or an ATM. Yes that really happens here on a regular basis along with pickup trucks hitting houses at least 3 times a week, but onto the question

The 292 was the customer choice to keep a some what stock appearance and have something that you could readily get parts for. A 4200 would be a nice choice as well , I wouldn't do anything under late 70's mid 80's unless its a restoration

The 14 bolt came out of a late model 2500 pickup, The problem was its just a tad to long and when we converted the wheel to tubeless we need to add as much off set as possible to make them fit under the fenders. The wheel conversion was $185 per wheel and we did 5 including the spare. I'd use a C&C ( Cab & Chassis)14 bolt axle next time if I could find one. They are shorter. You can also use a C&C out of a mid 80 I think and the difference is drums which is ok to. Old tow trucks, U-Haul trucks have them

The power steering is only made by use so far. There are similar kits for 1/2 ton but the linkages are different.

I think in the end you need to update it to the way your driving it. If you want to take trips and keep up with and safely get into traffic then later model engine trans and gearing. If its a parade truck or show truck then its not as important to go late model.

The only thing I do to every truck we do, unless its a full n restoration, is put 2 u-joint in the steering column so that if it get hit in the left front rail it does drive the column into your chest. The joints give it a way to kick out and not up.

[dsraven]

if you are gonna upgrade the engine and brakes don't forget the rear brakes as well. then it sounds like you will be doing an engine, trans, rear end, power steering, disc brakes, driveshaft, engine mounts, trans mounts, throttle linkage and possibly pedal, exhaust system, park brake system as well as wiring etc. that is some significant work. maybe think about something fuel injected for economy, power and driveability. could you buy a wreck and salvage stuff you need? insurance write off?

[Softpatch]

Nice truck
very well done
I have the same Hand brake setup (Ebrake) on the floor in my 59 Viking.
Can you give me any lead were I can find parts.?
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I need the spawl and gate (ratcheting part) that holds the handle in place
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Thanks .......Sp
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[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

Nice truck
very well done
I have the same Hand brake setup (Ebrake) on the floor in my 59 Viking.
Can you give me any lead were I can find parts.?
.
I need the spawl and gate (ratcheting part) that holds the handle in place
.
Thanks .......Sp
.
.

Do you mean that crescent shaped part with the teeth on it? Your should be a driveshaft drum correct? Is the handle straight up or off set, send me an email I may have a handle and those parts

[buckkoo]

Actually, now I'm back to the 261...

There is a great resource at http://devestechnet.com/

So replace my 235 short block with a rebuilt 261, my rebuilt 235 head, fenton exhaust, motor mounts, new water pump, new dual action fuel pump, new 3/4 cam, lifters, etc all move over...

Keep the 1950 Muncie, change rear ends for a more friendly ratio, add front discs. add power steering, probably go with 255 AC.

[buckkoo]

As far as purpose, I'd like to safely be able to navigate secondary roads at 55 -60 mph for trips to Lowes, church, etc.

I don't see this as an Interstate vehicle or something i would drive in city traffic on a regular basis

The Vortec 4200 doesn't have a clear path to a manual transmission, which is a requirement for me

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by buckkoo

As far as purpose, I'd like to safely be able to navigate secondary roads at 55 -60 mph for trips to Lowes, church, etc.

I don't see this as an Interstate vehicle or something i would drive in city traffic on a regular basis

Then I think a 261 will work out fine

[dsraven]

sounds like you got it figured out.

[buckkoo]

I'm running 19.5 rims, what you guys call "Delivery Truck" rims I believe. They really look good on the truck and mitigate the "low gear issues" to a degree.

It sounds like you took the original rims and had them "stretched" to 17"

What I can't quite understand is why the "stretched" rims impacted back spacing and the rear end's width?

[dwcsr]

The 17 rims were the original size, we had them converted to tubeless and in the process we had the backspace changed so it would put the tires inside the wheel wells with the longer 14 bolt.

[Softpatch]

.
.My apologies to the OP buckkoo..
didn't mean to jack your thread Sp
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glade to here your going with the 261 .. it's Good motor
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Originally Posted by dwcsr

Do you mean that crescent shaped part with the teeth on it? Your should be a driveshaft drum correct? Is the handle straight up or off set, send me an email I may have a handle and those parts

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here are the parts I'm after circled in red
the rathet part and the dog that goes with it to hold the hand brake when applied thanks scott

i tried to email you through your web site ..but failed
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