Using UMI performance A-arms on S10 frame swap

[52ratrod]

Hey guys, First thank you to everyone that has posted. all his information helps so many of the newbies. I have a question about a s10 swap I'm going to be doing on my 52 chevy 1300 3 window. I know that with the front end that not only to replace the bushings and all other worn parts that normally a 2" wheel spacer is used to bring the wheels closer to the fenders

I want to go with a more modern look and upgrade my a-arms to the umi performance a-arms they offer.

Has anyone ever gone to a tubular a-arm and which one to avoid using a wheel spacer?

Thanks

Dallas

[Coupeguy2001]

check speedway in Lincoln Nebraska. Checkout their race car catalog,
They have dimensions and u-build-it ones.

[tmoble]

UMI stuff is good, but you'll need both upper and lower arms to match. You'll also need longer tie-rods.

If you really,really want to do this Speedway Motors would be a good place to start.

Maybe deeper offset wheels?

[52ratrod]

Originally Posted by tmoble

UMI stuff is good, but you'll need both upper and lower arms to match. You'll also need longer tie-rods.

If you really,really want to do this Speedway Motors would be a good place to start.

Maybe deeper offset wheels?

Im going to do a frame swap with a 2002 extended cab so once I can get my hands on a ford 9" or s10 4x4 rear end to update the brakes and change the stock rear end ratio.

From what I can read on is that spacers are needed on the front to even it to rear once I get a wider rear mounted.

If I go with umi top and bottom a-arms and drop spindles will that bring me out enough so front spacers are not needed.

[tmoble]

>>> From what I can read on is that spacers are needed on the front to even it to rear once I get a wider rear mounted.

Sounds a little strange, maybe you investigate this further.

UMI stuff will be stock width.

I think you'd be money and work ahead to use a narrower rear that's similar to the stock width. re-engineering a front suspension and steering is not an easy (or smart) deal. There's lots of stuff available to make this work, no need to re-invent the wheel here.

[52ratrod]

Michigan metal works offers upper and lower a arms from 1.5 to 3 inch each side and relocate the shock off the frame through the upper to connect to the lower. Has anyone had success with these?