63 C10 - Need info on upgrading to power brakes Currently have disc/drums

[whitley7]

Hi everyone, I got this truck last year. The previous owner had install disk brakes on the front and ran new brake lines. I have since put in a 350 w/ a th350, new radiator, battery, driveshaft, dual exhaust, tires and rims. During this process I have discovered that the lug pattern is not original (5 x 5.5 vs 6) that the champion aluminum radiator sold on eBay is not a direct fit and having a solid driveshaft fabricated is expensive.

I was finally able to drive her last week and immediately notice that the brakes are terrible. It does stop, but it takes a lot of pressure and I don't think I could lock the brakes up if I really tried. I did notice after getting back home that the outside of the master cylinder looked oily, but it didn't look like it leaked everywhere. Maybe the top is allowing fluid to leak out? Anyway, I decided that my next project for her should be upgrading to power brakes. I have read the faq section, but haven't found what I'm looking for. I have seen that I can by a kit online for this upgrade, but being a father of 4 necessitates that I do this as low cost as possible. This is my first project ever and I don't know a great deal about mechanic work (YouTube is my best friend). I'm amazed at the knowledge of members on this site. Anyway, I would like to get the booster and master cylinder from a pull a park yard not far from my house, but I'm not sure what will work (years, models etc). Also, since the PO has upgraded the brake lines, would I be able to use the current proportioning valve? What modifications would I need to make to the brake pedal? I had to buy a front caliper cause the previous one was locked up and found I had to get one for a 71 truck to match. Does that matter?

I'm gonna post pics of my truck any insight would be greatly appreciated as I don't know what's original and what isn't. I hope to move the gas tank to the rear at some point. Replace the Column and steering wheel to get the shifter the previous owner put in the floor back on the column and for more room.

Sorry for the long post. Any help/ info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[whitley7]

Another picture

[whitley7]

Another

[whitley7]

Another picture

[whitley7]

Master cylinder

[whitley7]

Rear drum

[notsolo]

Check that your brakes are working at each wheel 1st, jack up 1 at a time and see if each wheel holds when brake is applied. Could be the prop valve next to M-C is not working. If you get a M-C and booster from a parts truck, get the prop valve with it.

[whitley7]

Thanks for the reply, I'll check. In the process of getting her road ready I've discovered that I don't have any turn signals, horn, brake lights and only the tail light on the passenger side. From reading on this forum I think I've narrowed it down to the turn signal switch. Being that I want to upgrade the column anyway; does anyone know of any donor models that will bolt up to my 63?

[Palf70Step]

You msy not want power brakes once you get them working right. Otjer than heavy pedal you should stop just as well.

[slepysal]

By adding a brake booster will lessen the pressure you need to apply.
Nice truck by the way

[Captainfab]

I can't say for sure but that master cylinder looks like those I have seen on Motorhomes built on the 1-1/4 ton chassis. They have a rather large bore, something like 1-1/4". That will make the pedal a little harder to push. The other thing is that it may or may not be plumbed correctly. They have the front port of the master to the front brakes. With some masters that is correct and with others it is not. That is something that should be checked into.

As for upgrading to power brakes on a budget, I sell my standard booster brackets in bare steel for $55.00 plus $12.35 for shipping. Then you can simply go to your local wrecking yard and pick up a compatible booster and master cylinder. Going this route is simple and also ensures that the booster and master assembly is securely attached to the brake pedal assembly as the GM engineers designed it to be.