Firewall Brake Pedal/Master

[JimDirt]

What "bolt in" (i know nothing is "bolt in" but something that is common to find and fits well) for a brake pedal setup ?? , i don't know if this is best http://www.ebay.com/itm/381681761646...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT , or something out of a wrecking yard is better (if so what vehicle/year fits the best or requires the least modification to work ?)

I have decided i would rather go with the firewall mount as it will be a driver not a show truck , so a clean firewall is not as important as function and ease of access , i understand i will need to brace/strengthen the firewall where it mounts , my arm/wrist is still toast from the dirtbike wreck i had so i can't work on the truck yet , but i am now gathering the parts so when i can use my hand again , i will have plenty to keep me busy .... i will be going disk front (straight axle for now ) drum rear

[BIGglaSS]

What "bolt in" (i know nothing is "bolt in" but something that is common to find and fits well) for a brake pedal setup ?? , i don't know if this is best http://www.ebay.com/itm/381681761646...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT , or something out of a wrecking yard is better (if so what vehicle/year fits the best or requires the least modification to work ?)

That is the only "bolt-in" option that I know of. For some, that brake pedal mount doesn't work right out of the box. The pedal is too high off the floor, unless you are under 5'6". The pedal needs to be re-clocked on the shaft for more travel. However, it is designed to use the original e-brake handle.
Do a search here, there are a lot that use this bracket.

Nothing else is going to be an "easy" bolt-in.

If you are not concerned with keeping the original brake handle, you can pull the bracket out of a C10 truck and adapt it to your dash and firewall. That gets the booster up and out of the way of the engine.

I made my own, it will not use the original e-brake handle. I will be using an e-stopp.
Starting with a pedal from a 79 nova, keeping the original pedal ratio. Lots of measuring. Pics to tell the story:

[_Ogre]

nice patch work bigglass
nice fabrication work too

[JimDirt]

Yes i agree , nice fab work !!

So it sounds like when you use the CCP pedal bracket it necessitates the master being real low and close the the valve covers to make the pedal the correct placement from the floor ???? , can the pedal arm/pedal be replaced with a longer one and the mount mounted higher to keep it higher on the firewall ??

And yes i did plan to keep the original E-brake setup

[BIGglaSS]

Hello, neighbor. I'm in Eagle... If you're keeping the original e-brake, that bracket is your best option. When I was researching options, I found several cases of leaky boosters and master cylinders from CPP. Here is one of the threads that mentions the pedal height and how to correct it.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=242

That bracket does move the booster further from the engine than what I did. However, it puts the brake pedal on the right side of the steering column. My daily drivers have the brake pedal under the steering column, not to the right of it. That's why I went the direction I did. I wanted it to feel the same as my other vehicles.

Another build thread using that bracket:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=648712

Thanks for the comments.

[OneOffStroker]

I went all manual when ordering parts for my '57. Isn't installed yet, so I can't vouch for pedal feel, but I know that it will be just fine, and it doesn't clutter much of anything. There are floor mount and even reverse-swing assemblies that have the m/c setup under the dash, so no firewall clutter whatsoever.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...edal,1960.html

[JimDirt]

Originally Posted by OneOffStroker

I went all manual when ordering parts for my '57. Isn't installed yet, so I can't vouch for pedal feel, but I know that it will be just fine, and it doesn't clutter much of anything. There are floor mount and even reverse-swing assemblies that have the m/c setup under the dash, so no firewall clutter whatsoever.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...edal,1960.html

That is a slick setup , and decently priced as well , does the dual setup take away the need for a proportioning valve ??

[JimDirt]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Hello, neighbor. I'm in Eagle... If you're keeping the original e-brake, that bracket is your best option. When I was researching options, I found several cases of leaky boosters and master cylinders from CPP. Here is one of the threads that mentions the pedal height and how to correct it.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=242

That bracket does move the booster further from the engine than what I did. However, it puts the brake pedal on the right side of the steering column. My daily drivers have the brake pedal under the steering column, not to the right of it. That's why I went the direction I did. I wanted it to feel the same as my other vehicles.

Another build thread using that bracket:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=648712

Thanks for the comments.

The pedal being on the left side of the column is fine , i always thought it uncomfortable after the 3 speed column manual trans was replaced with the Turbo 400 that the pedal felt weird right next to the gas pedal since the clutch was no longer being used , so that part would be a bonus for me

And yea , small world ... to find 2 people on this board that live so close to me.....

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by JimDirt

What "bolt in" (i know nothing is "bolt in" but something that is common to find and fits well) for a brake pedal setup ?? , i don't know if this is best http://www.ebay.com/itm/381681761646...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT , or something out of a wrecking yard is better (if so what vehicle/year fits the best or requires the least modification to work ?)

I have decided i would rather go with the firewall mount as it will be a driver not a show truck , so a clean firewall is not as important as function and ease of access , i understand i will need to brace/strengthen the firewall where it mounts , my arm/wrist is still toast from the dirtbike wreck i had so i can't work on the truck yet , but i am now gathering the parts so when i can use my hand again , i will have plenty to keep me busy .... i will be going disk front (straight axle for now ) drum rear

Jimdirt,
I've bought a Wildwood brake booster and pedal setup for my firewall. I did have to work on getting my pedal setup correct and I'm 6'1" tall but it works fantastic. My truck stops on a dime so I'm very happy with my arrangement. AND, this is NOT a show truck. I drive it all the time.

[47 Fasttoys]

In my case I used a pedal, master cylinder and booster from a 2003 Silverado. The pedal is longer then most kit pedals. It's easy to find this style at the local pick a part. for the pedal mount I used 16 ga. with a bend in it. This also doubles as a dash reinforcement. The pedal has plastic bushings in it for pivots. In my case I have a 90 degree mount, but it would work without it on a normal truck.
Rob

[yossarian19]

I used the CPP kit, I'm 6'1" and the pedal was indeed "you've got to be kidding me" high. I partially solved this by modifying the brake booster rod but the real solution would be to grind / cut the welds holding the arm to the shaft & re-clock it. I really can't understand why CPP doesn't get this stuff right.

[Flysocal]

Performance online makes a firewall mounted brake booster bracket for 1947-53 you will need to cut a hole in the firewall and should smooth out a rib but it will save a lot of time over fabricating one from scratch. I installed the 47-53 bracket in a 54 but needed to modify the dash mounting points since the dashboard is different in a 54. I would recommend the bracket to anyone with a 47-53.