A good upgrade from leaf to coils?

[siggyfreud]

Hey all,

Just returned from SEMA this year. Got to stop by the CPP booth and check out some of their stuff. They had a nice frame on demo that had some of their parts on display. I was talking with one of their techs about ditching leafs for my project, but also wanted the opinion of the community.

Would a setup like this provide noticeable handling improvements (in your opinion), and do you see any issues moving to a setup like this?

Photos not mine, pulled from web for reference. I'd get the new driveshaft loop shaft, torsion bars, lower spring perches, upper shock cross-shaft.







I was planning on getting new leafs anyways, as mine are both old and stock height, but thought I could roll that money into moving this direction.

Thoughts are appreciated!

[siggyfreud]

Also just came across the rear coil setup from NoLimit. Anyone have experience with that?

[theastronaut]

I'm going with the three link kit from No Limit. The geometry of the links plants the tires better off the line and out of corners and won't bind as the suspension articulates.

From those pics, the tubular CPP trailing arms have a very stiff bushing design at the front pivot which will not allow much articulation without binding. Not a good design. The factory I-beam trailing arm design allows twisting which allows the axle to pivot more easily. You want the springs, shocks, and sway bars to control the roll stiffness, not the binding of suspension components.

[gabbin]

There's no doubt that this type set up will out perform the leaf style suspension and will ride and handle like a dream, especially on air.

[patrickk1]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I'm going with the three link kit from No Limit. The geometry of the links plants the tires better off the line and out of corners and won't bind as the suspension articulates.

From those pics, the tubular CPP trailing arms have a very stiff bushing design at the front pivot which will not allow much articulation without binding. Not a good design. The factory I-beam trailing arm design allows twisting which allows the axle to pivot more easily. You want the springs, shocks, and sway bars to control the roll stiffness, not the binding of suspension components.

Make sure you either talk to Rob before you place your order or make sure you know exactly what needs to be ordered. I ordered my 3-link (with shockwaves) without talking to him because on numerous occasions he did not return my calls like I was told he would. When the cross member arrived, it was the one with hoop on the bottom (I knew I needed the hoop on the top). With my 5.5" ride height the driveshaft hits even at ride height. One would think that since I got the shockwaves, they would have assumed its not going on a factory height truck and that they would have shipped me the one with the hoop on the top of the crossmember. When I called to ask about it (I was very polite given what I had heard from other people about him), he treated me like crap. I am now modifying the crossmember to work and torching off the upper link bracket to make link angles better. If you order the 3-link from him, I'd recommend ordering it without the upper link bracket welded on. That way you can put it where you want.