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06-25-2001, 08:21 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Dover, NH USA
Posts: 194
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replacing rear coil springs.
I figured I would ask again before I start my next little project. Replacing the rear coil springs on my 67 c10 2 wheel drive. The truck currently has some stock springs that seem to have been heated, they now seem to be compressed, no spring at all to them now. I think they have dropped the rear over 6 inches. Anyway, I want to replace. I have never done springs before, so am looking for any advice that I can get. Any would sure be appreciated. By the way, the springs I am replacing with are 5" drop coils. Thanks much! |
06-25-2001, 09:21 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: riverhead new york usa
Posts: 596
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It's real easy to do just jack it up so the sprins are extended with the wheels barely on the ground with jackstands under the frame rails take the bolts out slip the springs out and put in the new ones
------------------ 71c10 350/350 air ps pb 320hp crate 2004R tranny from FB performance 410moroso posi completely rustfree body 27T coupe chopper 6.5 inches channeled total height 41inches powered by bigblock Edsel punched out to 490ci topped with 6stromberg97's built back in 67 Whizzer motorbikes 6or7 71C5 Blazer 350/350 needs rust repair but runs new 74Pinto stationwagon daily driver
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71c10 350/350 air ps pb 320hp crate 2004R tranny from FB performance 410moroso posi completely rustfree body 27T coupe chopper 6.5 inches channeled total height 41inches powered by bigblock Edsel punched out to 490ci topped with 6stromberg97's built back in 67 Whizzer motorbikes 6or7 71C5 Blazer 350/350 needs rust repair but runs new 74Pinto stationwagon daily driver |
06-29-2001, 06:40 PM | #3 |
Registered truck nut
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mt. Vernon, Washington, USA
Posts: 1,584
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I'd have to disagree with it being easy. I just did the rear of 66 and my 69. The 69 had been heated up to the point of not being able to get a wrench in. It was easier to just cut the spring out and then unbolt them. The 66 had severely rusted bolts and I ended up just snapping them off. Did you order new lower retaining cups. Most likely you'll need them
------------------ MOUNT VERNON, WASH. STATE GOT MY BASES COVERED -Big and bad 70 CST Blazer -71 K5 Blazer, 350, 4spd -Work in progress 72 SWB -72 Cheyenne, lwb, 1/2 ton, 4x4, V8, 4spd. -71, 3/4 ton, 402/400, Custom Camper -69, 2wd, ST6, auto, ghetto lowered, 3/4 ton, LWB, "BOMBER" -69 Chev., lwb, utility trailer, 35" tires, -88 1ton BB workhorse Add or Delete Daily
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MOUNT VERNON, WASH. STATE Need a part? Just PM me |
07-06-2001, 08:13 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Posts: 182
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When I replaced mine, I screwed around with a wrench and cheater bar for a while. After a couple hours of sweat and cussing, I gave up and got out the ol' gas axe. I cut the bolts with the torch, popped out the springs, and had the new ones back in in 30 minutes. And LeRoy is right - get new retaining cups...
------------------ '71 Custom 10 in progress 350/TH350/3.73 Holley 650 Dbl. Pump, Headers, HEI ************************* '84 K-10 Silverado Blazer daily driver
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'71 Custom 10 350/TH350/3.73 Holley 650 Dbl. Pump, Headers, HEI ***************************** '76 K10 350/TH350/205/12-bolt(R)/Dana44(F) Primer Gray! ***************************** '01 Grand Prix GTP - my 260 HP gas sipper! Victory Red |
07-07-2001, 12:02 AM | #5 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2000
Location: IL
Posts: 0
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yeah good luck having the bolts come loose with tools, lol
Hot wrench is the only way if the truck is driven in weather. |
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