4" drop in the rear

[SleepO]

Does anyone know if I need to c-notch the rear frame if I drop the rear 4"? Would I also need to change the crossmember? I really do t want to change out or alter the frame. If I do have to make those changes, what's the most drop I can do without making those alterations?

[vin63]

It depends on how much suspension travel you want/need. I would double check your current ride height, and compare the current rearend housing location to a 4" drop and see how much travel you would have before contacting the bump stop of the frame. You would then need to consider the roads you drive on and the type/weight of loads you carry in your truck bed. You probably do not need to change out the trailing arm crossmember.

[scoot_mcgrute]

You don't need to do anything at all to run a 4" spring on the back, there's tons of room for the suspension to cycle. The shock angle is still ok too.

I'm running a 7" drop with 5" springs and 2" blocks and even then, c-notch isn't what I would call required. I only hit the frame once so far and that was quite the speed bump. I do need to relocate the shocks with the No Limit kit that I bought though but it's drivable how it is.

[PGSigns]

I have 4" springs and a 1" block in my 66. All I did was remove the stock bump stops and swap them for short ones off a set of traction bars. I do have 2 degrees of shim machined into my spacers to help with the pinion angle. I am not running a C notch.
Jimmy

[SleepO]

Thanks for the advice guys. I want to level out the truck with a 2" drop in the front and a 4" in the rear. I won't be hauling anything so there won't be weight in the bed. The roads her in Georgia are in pretty good shape (considering in used to live in NJ/NY, horrible roads). I'm glad to hear that I don't need to make those frame alterations.

[SleepO]

Thanks for the advice guys. I want to level out the truck with a 2" drop in the front and a 4" in the rear. I won't be hauling anything so there won't be weight in the bed. The roads her in Georgia are in pretty good shape (considering in used to live in NJ/NY, horrible roads). I'm glad to hear that I don't need to make those frame alterations.

[SleepO]

I also was wondering if anyone, who has the 4" drop in the rear, knows the compressed and extended height for the rear shocks. Btw, I have track bars and not leaf spring, if that makes a difference.

[rvrfoot]

5 inch drop

[Hollow65]

On both my 64 and 65 lwb I ran the ECE 4/6 drop. All I did was relocate the panhard bar. I've hauled a yard of 3/4 gravel in my 64 and it rode perfect.

[Palf70Step]

My 64 is a 4.5/6 drop and it rides great. Early Classics kit did it all (spindle springs up front, springs rear. Track bar reallocater and whatever shocks they had in the kit. It still rides great after many years of use. No C notch, although that probably will come in the future. I have hauled a full size upright piano in it and as long as I drove carefully it didn't bottom out.

[Cris]

Hollow 65:

On the 4/6 drop kit from ECE. You kept the stock spindles and brakes and did not relocate the shocks?

I'm contemplating the ECE 2/4 drop kit with shock and panhard relocation.

With the stock suspension I actually like the ride. A little cushy, but my truck's a cruiser not a race car so I'm for comfort not speed. I just want a better stance.

Thanks, Cris