Truck pulls to the right when braking?

[Skunksmash]

Seems like I should know this but... what causes this? At highway speeds, my 87 pulls fairly hard to the right when you need to press the brake pedal down a bit harder than normal. Its enough that I feel like its trying to put me into the next lane.

So I'll be going 65-70 mph, and if I need to press down hard on the pedal for some reason, it starts trying to go into the right lane next to me. Anyone know what causes this? Its not nearly as noticeable when you are traveling at slower speeds, like just around town.

[CSHADES]

Sounds like the brake hose on the left side is collapsed internally and not letting fluid through it. So the right brake is working which will make it pull. The easiest way to check it is to open the bleeder on the left side, push down the brake pedal and see how much fluid comes out. If it isn't a lot then the hose is probably bad.

[Bandit130]

Originally Posted by CSHADES

Sounds like the brake hose on the left side is collapsed internally and not letting fluid through it. So the right brake is working which will make it pull. The easiest way to check it is to open the bleeder on the left side, push down the brake pedal and see how much fluid comes out. If it isn't a lot then the hose is probably bad.

That sounds correct. Had a 72 and a 74 do the same thing. Only the 72 was terribly bad. Recommend to replace both left and right to solve any future issues. It's like replacing pads, replace both.

[Skunksmash]

Guess this is a good time to put those stainless steel braided lines on.


Does anyone have a good recommendation for a set of those? I was hoping someone here had put some on before, and could talk about them.

[roger97338]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

Guess this is a good time to put those stainless steel braided lines on.


Does anyone have a good recommendation for a set of those? I was hoping someone here had put some on before, and could talk about them.

I recently had a similar problem, and had to replace my front brake hoses. I went with the OE rubber type of hose, because I didn't read any post on any website where somebody replaced OE brake hoses with universal braided ones that recommended doing it. I also didn't see any direct replacement braided lines, but I didn't look that hard for them either.

I got mine at Napa. I had to go back three times to get the right copper crush washers for the hoses. (Don't even try to reuse the old ones. There isn't anything but sorrow and disappointment down that path.) The third set they got for me still didn't have the right crush washers, and I said that's fine, I'll take them and just buy the crush washers separately. They got a pack off the rack and just gave them to me.

Use a flare nut wrench to get the hard lines off of the rubber lines so you don't mess up those connections and make your task longer than it needs to be.

To get the rubber line off of the pickup's frame you'll need a 15/16 socket. I found that a deep socket and a swivel-head ratchet were needed to get to them. Along with some positions that made me feel like I'd tried yoga when I got out of bed the next day. I felt that if I'd had access to a lift, or a pit so that I could stand and work on it, it would have been a lot easier.

When you're done and bleeding the brakes, put a piece of wood under the brake pedal so that it doesn't go to the floor. I found out that letting it go to the floor when you're bleeding the brakes is the wrong way of doing it.

While I was under there anyway, I followed the advice of the factory service manual, which says:

"It is good practice to bleed the
brake system until all old fluid is removed when
performing major brake work. Old fluid should be bled
from the system and replaced with clean brake fluid if
any of the hydraulic system parts are corroded or the
fluid is discolored or dirty. If any of the rubber parts of
the hydraulic system are soft or swollen old fluid should
be removed and hydraulic system should be flushed with
clean brake fluid."

If you find some direct replacement braided hoses, please let me know. I'm curious, but not curious enough to look myself. Ya know?

[Keith Seymore]

It could also be something going on in the LH caliper; either corrosion in the piston bore - or - the design of the length of the piston vs the bore diameter is not very good (what is described as the "L over D ratio"). Sometimes the piston can cock in there not allowing full line pressure to be translated into pressure on the brake pads.

You would be able to see that based on the wear pattern in the caliper bore.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Is your truck 2wd or 4wd?

K

[Skunksmash]

It is a 2WD truck.


Someone somewhere, posted some direct replacement braided lines. I want to say they were from Summit, but I can't remember. IIRC they were about $90 for a pair. I'll look through all my old forum posts here.

[SkinnyG]

Sometimes a caster difference left-to-right can cause a pull under braking. The problem isn't in the brakes (as above), check the alignment.

[Skunksmash]

Ok I will check that out too. I'll probably just take it to the alignment shop and have them give it an alignment. Its probably overdue anyway.

[tucsonjwt]

Before getting an alignment, have the technician check all of your suspension and steering components. No point in getting an alignment on a truck with sloppy parts. Any good tech will do this automatically, but just in case I think you should ask for it first.

[f.monroe]

Jack the front of the truck up on both sides if possible. Get in the truck and press the brake pedal hard. Then try rotating the front wheels and tires. If one is hard to turn then that brake hose is probably collapsed on the inside. If you find one that won't turn you can crack the bleeder screw open and see if it releases. If so it is surely a collapsed brake hose.

FYI if it pulls to the right it's usually the left hose Thats collapsed .

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

It is a 2WD truck.


Someone somewhere, posted some direct replacement braided lines. I want to say they were from Summit, but I can't remember. IIRC they were about $90 for a pair. I'll look through all my old forum posts here.

Make sure the hoses you buy have a DOT approval number for public highway use. Not all of the braided lines will pass the DOT tests and you don't want anything to do with hoses that don't.

[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by roger97338

If you find some direct replacement braided hoses, please let me know. I'm curious, but not curious enough to look myself. Ya know?

Here it is. High end brand name too. This is the set I'll be going with.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-220-...5X1ibR&vxp=mtr



EDIT:

I cant find anywhere where it says they're DOT approved. They're wilwood, and usa made, and it does say they're great replacements for OE. But can anyone see where it says anything about DOT?

[donut]

Personally, I'd bite. Wilwood is a reputable name. If your concerned, you could contact them direct and/or the seller to inquire.

[dieseldawg142]

i got Skyjacker braided hoses on mine, and their stamped right on them every 6"- DOT approved
think i put them on in '010, zero issues

[Skunksmash]

Well I bought the wilwood braided lines. These old trucks could use the help when it comes to braking. Well worth it. Gonna do the lines in case its that, and a caliper in case its that. Don't want to be doing this twice so I'll just get it all over with at once.

[nonstop]

If you're replacing 1 caliper, you might as well do both and a set of pads. Cheap enough and everything is new.

[Skunksmash]

Yeah I was looking at that. Even for AC Delco brand its only something like $35 each. Not bad at all, considering what I've paid for complete calipers on other vehicles.

[Skunksmash]

I called Wilwood, they're DOT approved.

[Skunksmash]

Poop. Those wilwoods were for the rear, and there is one too many of them. I ordered some 14" lines, and for the front of our trucks we really need about 23" lines.