"Elwood" the 77_remix

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

My vote would be for satin black cover, subtle and classy with the hardware. The cast iron cover draws the eye and it looks good but I think it takes focus away from the more interesting features you have going on back there.

Love following your builds, wish you had an instagram for these too!

I do cover my builds on my Instagram feed. I just cant go indepth like I do here.

[Advanced Design]

I also prefer the look of the black cover.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

I also prefer the look of the black cover.

Thanks for the input.

[LT7A]

Since ya asked... When focused on just the third member, I do like the contrast of the black with the fasteners. However, for overall presentation, I like the third color to differentiate (see what I did there) various elements. Biggest question, why didn't you knock out the big dent in the lower right of the diff cover while you had it off? (Kidding)

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LT7A

..... Biggest question, why didn't you knock out the big dent in the lower right of the diff cover while you had it off? (Kidding)

You know I tried, right. I'm not sure why that dimple is there, but I can tell you they wanted it to stay.

[StorminNorman]

With that brake tee mounted center high like that, Will it hit the bed floor when you air that thing out ?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by StorminNorman

With that brake tee mounted center high like that, Will it hit the bed floor when you air that thing out ?

As a matter of fact, it probably will. I built the last two that way, but they were static dropped. I totally forgot that the pumpkin goes that close to the bed. I wasnt satisfied with the line on the right side. Looks like I'll be remaking both sides.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by StorminNorman

With that brake tee mounted center high like that, Will it hit the bed floor when you air that thing out ?

I'm starting to wonder if the new system will go as low as the old. Regardless, I decided to address your concern. I started thinking how close the top of the differential was on the old system, and decided to make some changes.

I used the original bracket but reversed it, and flipped it over. I also cut it shorter so its much smaller. I had to drill and tap a new hole for the through bolt, but I think it looks much cleaner now.

With all that done, I had no choice but to make new brake lines as well. I'm starting to figure this tube bending out. Lets hope I dont have any leaks.

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You know I tried, right. I'm not sure why that dimple is there, but I can tell you they wanted it to stay.

I have the answer....it's to hold the big, round metal shavings collector magnet. It has a hole in the center which fits the dimple.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

I have the answer....it's to hold the big, round metal shavings collector magnet. It has a hole in the center which fits the dimple.

Good answer. Must have been optional though. Mine doesn't have a magnet.

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Good answer. Must have been optional though. Mine doesn't have a magnet.

I'd bet it did at one time....a couple of guys that worked in dealerships I worked at would pull those out and leave them in the drain pans or use them to post stuff on their tool boxes....the rear suspension is really looking great!

[N2TRUX]

I have been trying to find the correct U joint to mate the original drive shaft from the 12 bolt to the 87 10 bolt yoke. I know its out there, but so far I'm not having much luck. I consulted Chris Lucas and he gave me a Oriellys part number. It was sorrect for the drive shaft, but too big for the yoke. I'm headed back to Oriellys today.

[cruizin01]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I have been trying to find the correct U joint to mate the original drive shaft from the 12 bolt to the 87 10 bolt yoke. I know its out there, but so far I'm not having much luck. I consulted Chris Lucas and he gave me a Oriellys part number. It was sorrect for the drive shaft, but too big for the yoke. I'm headed back to Oriellys today.

Can you measure the openings? Feel that it shouldn't be too difficult to find the correct combo joint.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I have been trying to find the correct U joint to mate the original drive shaft from the 12 bolt to the 87 10 bolt yoke. I know its out there, but so far I'm not having much luck. I consulted Chris Lucas and he gave me a Oriellys part number. It was sorrect for the drive shaft, but too big for the yoke. I'm headed back to Oriellys today.

Have you tried looking through here: http://www.jegs.com they have the cap and length dimensions listed for the conversion series joints. My guess is 1350 x 1330 sized.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by cruizin01

Can you measure the openings? Feel that it shouldn't be too difficult to find the correct combo joint.

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Have you tried looking through here: http://www.jegs.com/p/Spicer/Spicer-...14754/10002/-1 they have the cap and length dimensions listed for the conversion series joints. My guess is 1350 x 1330 sized.

I went by Oriellys today and spent an hour researching. A young employee and the store manager went through several dozen combinations and we couldn't find the right fit. Tomorrow I'm going to a local drive shaft shop. If they can't figure it out, I'll get a new yoke put on my old drive shaft.

[N2TRUX]

Since my U joints wouldnt work, I moved on to the brake line. The rear supply line runs along the passanger side of the frame. Mid ways there is a factory union that makes a good point to start replacement. I run that along the frame and add another union before the crossmember. This allows the section that goes to the soft line to be much more manageable in length.
I got the long and short line bent and flared. I used Made For You Products nylon clamps to hold the line in place. With everything tested for fit, I pulled the lines to paint them satin black.

[cochino12]

Ken I had this same problem a couple years ago, turned out two parts stores in town had u-joints placed in the wrong box from the manufacturer. I've got the correct part numbers on the wall in my garage somewhere I'll grab them tomorrow if you'd like.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by cochino12

Ken I had this same problem a couple years ago, turned out two parts stores in town had u-joints placed in the wrong box from the manufacturer. I've got the correct part numbers on the wall in my garage somewhere I'll grab them tomorrow if you'd like.

Adam I truly appreciate your offer, but I got it resolved.

[N2TRUX]

The kid at Oriellys gave a valiant effort to finding what I needed, but just couldn't find it. Talking with the Manager I said my next stop was at a driveshaft shop. If they didn't have what I needed I was going to have it built.
The store manager suggested Northwest Drivetrain Service so I gave them a call. The man said the magic words. "I have what you need" and "we're open on Saturday ". Folks we have a winner!

What this conversion requires is a 1310 / 3R combo U joint. This uses external clips in the driveshaft and internal clips on the differential. This took some effort for a fairly common conversion but I feel like it's worth it. I went from a 12 bolt with 3.08 gears to a 10 bolt with 3.42 gears for less than $100.00

[N2TRUX]

To back up just a bit, I'll go back to Friday night. My shipment from Switch Suspensionarrived. As mentioned I opted for a pair of ViAir 444 compressors in satin black.

I unpacked the box from Switch and discovered a couple of extras in the box. Seth sent a shirt and stickers along with the stealth black air pumps.

[N2TRUX]

I played with the placement of the compressor location, but there's not a lot of options. The intake filter should be somewhat protected from the elements if possible. The output hose is rather rigid so the location chose it self.
Time to call it done for now

[N2TRUX]

Saturday morning we took care of pure driveshaft issues. After Chris got that painted he moved on to the gas tank. It was in good condition, but had a factory undercoat sprayed on randomly. He grabbed a grinder with a wire cup and went to work.
After he stripped the tank it was blasted with coats of sealer primer, then topped with satin black. Rather than try to suspend it for painting, he opted to spray one side at a time.

[rustytruck50]

Score on the u-joint! Makes it all worth the work
Sometimes the simplest things......

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Score on the u-joint! Makes it all worth the work Sometimes the simplest things......

Its always something.

[RyanNewberry]

What was the part # for that u-joint? Just curious because I’m putting a 12 bolt in my 87 so it would be the same for me. Just opposite application from yours. Thanks.