83 K10 Survivor, Part 2

[Wwes]

The first thread is messed up so screw Photobucket. Here's the continuation of that build..

Ripped out the tired 305 and the TH350 transmission.


Swapped the stock column out with a column from a 90 Suburban. I much prefer the "stalk" compared to the foot control for high beams and the dash-mounted washer control.

I also have a body harness from the same 90 Suburban, so I am splicing the connections to make it all fit up right.

And this project is going to be completed! We took a direct hit from Hurricane Irma, and branches fell all around, but not on the old truck.

Making progress again!

[daddyjeep]

I'm glad you and the truck made it through Irma ok. Did you see that there is a work around to the photobucket mess now?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=740958&page=6

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Wwes

Making progress again!

Glad you all made it thru and are moving forward. Truck looks good and will be cool when you get it going again.

[Wwes]

Well, I ended up hacking apart the extra body harness I purchased. I decided to snip out the connectors for the ECM and column, and create new harnesses.

Below, is the new column installed. Overall that was quite simple, and I hope it all works.

I also created a ECM connector harness that goes from the ECM to the ALDL, as well as the SES light in the dash. I will splice it into the pigtail where the "Choke" light currently inputs (pin 16?).

[Wwes]

A couple issues I have to tackle with the interior:
1. Windshield washer - the "new" harness has the provision for the remote washer. I'll either have to convert it to that, and splice the new line into the existing line, or I'll have to splice the existing style wire into the "new" control. Will wait and tackle this once I have battery power again.
2. Headlamp switch - the 84+ switch and bezel I planned to use is higher in the dash than the current switch. That means I'll have to cut the sheet metal dash to get the switch centered correctly. Not quite fond of that idea, but i'll do it.
3. The new column did not have a neutral safety switch. I just wired the purple and yellow wires together and taped them off. Any better ideas?

[Wwes]

Good progress thus far:

-The fuel tanks are removed. Repainted the rear part of the frame.

-Working on removing (grinding off) the welded on I-beams used with the redneck lift kit. She'll be back to stock height shortly.

-Transmission and Transfer case rebuilt and ready to install.

[Wwes]

Is anyone following this build?

Here's where I'm at today. Got the old body lift I-beams (welded) bumper mounts to the frame and I cut them off. Looks like I should be good going back with stock bumper mounts.

And, what is this harness for coming out of the firewall? It has three wires.

[daddyjeep]

I'm still following. I haven't got in to my wiring on the truck yet, so I can't help with your questions. i did just download the schematics from Hatzie. They should help.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=545416

[Wwes]

Awesome, thanks. It looks like the EGR bleed valve from the schematics - will be removed.

[Wwes]

The frame is now ready for the new 350 engine. New fuel lines courtesy of Inline Tube, a new fuel valve selector, and I've got the re-wiring figured out (hopefully).

[Wwes]

Spent some time on the fuel delivery system. I have the wiring figured out (hopefully). It's now installed, and new fuel lines are ready to go as well.

The hardest part was removing the rivets from the old tank straps but the tank mounts are cleaned up and ready to be installed.

[Wwes]

And it's in - 350 Chevy engine, rebuilt 700-R4 with a shift kit, and a resealed and cleaned up transfer case.

Went in pretty smoothly overall, had a little fidgeting and a small notch out of the frame to make the 02 sensor fit in the frame rail.

[Wwes]

It will be running again soon. Most of the engine is in place, including the TBI and computer wiring. Just waiting on an incorrect order to be fixed from the fuel line vendor.

Also, here's a pic of the new gas tanks. Not too difficult to do.

[Wwes]

She turns over and fires when dripping gas down the throttle body!


Now, have to fix the fuel line wiring, the fuel lines, and give it a whirl.

[Wwes]

It's been a few weeks of "one step forward, and one-half step back".

I've been struggling with the wiring for the fuel pumps for some time now, and finally decided to find factory style dash selector switch wiring and patch it in. Luckily, it's easy to see that GM was piecemealing the ECM components in these trucks, as the dual fuel tank harness is still separate from the under dash master harness.

Found an 87 truck in a JY, and got the dash switch, the wiring harness through the firewall, and the rear-body connector which powers the fuel pumps and the fuel gauge in this generation of trucks.

The harness went in easily, and I connected the tank pump power into the shank where I removed the original tank wiring harness, and viola, I now have fuel pump power and both tanks work as desired!

Still don't have the fuel gauge wired up but it's coming.

Tried to test the engine start today, not much luck though as soon as pressurized the fuel system, the fuel pressure regulator shot fuel everywhere. So, I rebuilt the TBI with all new seals, and it helped but still has a leak. I'd wager the fuel pressure regulator spring has been changed at some point, as it seems to be longer than I'd expect it to be.

And the power steering pump is leaking from the front shaft, so I'll replace that while I'm easily able to do so.

More parts ordered, and maybe I'll get a Christmas wish and get the old truck running.

One problem I'm struggling with is the dipstick tube for the 700R4. The one I got out of the GMT-400 (1990 C1500) interferes with the A/C evaporator housing in the square. Any thoughts?

And finally, here's a truck that is my inspiration - we saw it at the Daytona speedway swap meets a few weeks ago!

[LT7A]

Good persistence. Getting pretty close now. One thing that you may want to do is give us a quick recap of your build in the new thread with live pics. I remember your screen name so I know I've read it but I can't remember the particulars. Nice work on the fuel system. I have a feeling that woulda stumped me for awhile.

[Wwes]

Build recap:

April 2017 - Gifted a 1983 K10 from a family member, paid $400 to have it shipped from North Carolina. All body panels seem to be original, the only modified thing I could find is the TH350 transmission instead of the 700R4. Engine is a 305 and runs good, but will be changed out.

Plans: Working restore - new paint, interior, and re-working of the drivetrain. Want it to look period correct, and I've always loved the 350 TBI engines, so let's build the truck with new paint, interior, and a TBI 350/700R4 as GM would have produced it in 1987. It will look exactly like a factory 1987 truck under the hood.

Project is divided into three phases.

Drivetrain:

Completed:
1. Removed original 305/TH350.
2. Procured a TBI 350 engine, wiring harness, 700R4.
3. Rebuild 700R4 and NP208 transfer case. Reinstalled.
4. 350 engine installed, computer wired up, new fuel tanks, pumps, lines, etc.

To Do:
5. Get engine running.
6. New factory-style exhaust.

Exterior

Completed:
1. Removed 3" body lift kit. This involved some cutting of the welded bumped mounts. Replaced all bushings with new LMC parts.
2. Purchased new core support. Existing one is rotted near the battery.
3. Frame sanded and repainted.
4. New brakes and brake lines at all four corners.

To Do:
5. Full repaint.
6. Replace damaged tailgate.


Interior

Completed:
1. Replaced steering column with a newer unit, with stalk wiper controls and high-beams. Tested out working good.
2. Removed most interior trim and repainted with SEM original colors.

To Do:
3. Replace carpet, headliner, seat cover, and dash pad.

That pretty much sums it up.

[Wwes]

Here's on issue I'm contemplating - I bought a new core support to do the 89-91 front end conversion, but after seeing the red truck above I've decided to stay stock. BUT, the original core has a good amount of rot on the lower corner, I could cut the replacement bottom off and weld it to the original. I'm concerned about the ultimate strength of the core though.

Thoughts?

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Wwes

Build recap:

April 2017 - Gifted a 1983 K10 from a family member, paid $400 to have it shipped from North Carolina. All body panels seem to be original, the only modified thing I could find is the TH350 transmission instead of the 700R4. Engine is a 305 and runs good, but will be changed out.

Plans: Working restore - new paint, interior, and re-working of the drivetrain. Want it to look period correct, and I've always loved the 350 TBI engines, so let's build the truck with new paint, interior, and a TBI 350/700R4 as GM would have produced it in 1987. It will look exactly like a factory 1987 truck under the hood.

Project is divided into three phases.

Drivetrain:

Completed:
1. Removed original 305/TH350.
2. Procured a TBI 350 engine, wiring harness, 700R4.
3. Rebuild 700R4 and NP208 transfer case. Reinstalled.
4. 350 engine installed, computer wired up, new fuel tanks, pumps, lines, etc.

To Do:
5. Get engine running.
6. New factory-style exhaust.

Exterior

Completed:
1. Removed 3" body lift kit. This involved some cutting of the welded bumped mounts. Replaced all bushings with new LMC parts.
2. Purchased new core support. Existing one is rotted near the battery.
3. Frame sanded and repainted.
4. New brakes and brake lines at all four corners.

To Do:
5. Full repaint.
6. Replace damaged tailgate.


Interior

Completed:
1. Replaced steering column with a newer unit, with stalk wiper controls and high-beams. Tested out working good.
2. Removed most interior trim and repainted with SEM original colors.

To Do:
3. Replace carpet, headliner, seat cover, and dash pad.

That pretty much sums it up.

Good info, thanks. Is the truck in the trees pretty much it looked like to start with?

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Wwes

Here's on issue I'm contemplating - I bought a new core support to do the 89-91 front end conversion, but after seeing the red truck above I've decided to stay stock. BUT, the original core has a good amount of rot on the lower corner, I could cut the replacement bottom off and weld it to the original. I'm concerned about the ultimate strength of the core though.

Thoughts?

Is it not possible to return the core support and get the right one? Welding a piece on the original should be ok as long as the rest of it is strong enough. It would certainly be easier to just use a new part if possible.

[Wwes]

I could get a new core support but I really want to avoid offshore metal on this truck if I can. The new core is thin and flimsy compared to the original one.

[Wwes]

Well darn, another half-step back.

Got a new TBI unit on there, and it held pressure. Couldn't get it to start, the injectors weren't firing. I was thrown for a loop because it has strong spark, but I've determined the computer does not have power. Tested for 12V at A6, and nothing. That also explains why the "SES" light doesn't work.

Trying to figure out how to get power to the ECM now.

[Greenlee]

Nice truck! Your build is a lot like mine. I used an 83’ cab, 87’ 4x4 frame / drive train and complete TBI wire harness etc from an 89’ Suburban. I would tell you to check out my build thread, but it was ruined by Photobucket.

For what it’s worth, I had a similar problem with the injectors not working when I was first trying to fire it up. It turned out I didn’t have the wire hooked up that runs from the positive battery cable to the alternator. It would turn over and fire if I poured fuel down the injectors, but the injectors would not spray fuel until I figured out that wire was unhooked. So you may want to add that to your list of things to check if you haven’t got her running yet.

[Wwes]

Greenlee - Thanks for that thought. I just put a new battery cable on it this week, that has the provision for the alternator wire like you said. Will check that out.

Here's my current work effort - mapping of the bulkhead connector. My ECM doesn't have any power. I've never used a Digital multi-meter before, so it's been a learning experience.

I figured out tonight that B1 - the orange wire on the bulkhead, row 1 at bottom, doesn't have any power, so the computer doesn't have power. Will check that one out this weekend.

[Greenlee]

That looks like a math test! Good luck getting her running.