1950 chevy hood

[cwohlt]

I own a 1950 Chevy pick up on a s-10 chassis. I am having problems fitting the hood there is a inch or more between the hood and cowl. I have tried another hood the same. I removed the hinge it seems a little loose. Just looking for info if any one has had the same issue.

[dsraven]

does it fit the hole without the hinges on?

[mongocanfly]

Martin has a good write up on hoods...scroll down to read.......http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hood+alignment

[cwohlt]

The hood fits the hole in the truck.

[mr48chev]

This is where some decent photos that show it directly from the side help a lot.

Here are some things to think about.
1. do you have the correct hood? It sounds odd but 4000 series hoods won't work with 3000 series fenders nor will 3000 series hoods work with 4000 series fenders.

2. the cab has to be setting level on the frame and the nose and cab have to be at the correct height in relation to each other. You may have the cab too low or too low in front or even too high in front for the fenders to match up right. If the nose won't set down low enough over the frame you have line up problems. This is a common issue with frame swaps and subframe installs as you normally have to cut away a lot of the inner sheet metal to get the nose to fit down over the frame.

Show us some photos and someone will figure it out.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by cwohlt

The hood fits the hole in the truck.

What the heck does that mean? It fits when you just set it on the truck with no hinges, it fit the truck before you swapped frames or ??

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by cwohlt

I own a 1950 Chevy pick up on a s-10 chassis. I am having problems fitting the hood there is a inch or more between the hood and cowl. I have tried another hood the same. I removed the hinge it seems a little loose. Just looking for info if any one has had the same issue.

Some Issues that can arise on a chassis swap.

1. the cab is to high or too low
2. the fenders and front radiator support is to high or too low

The first thing is to try and adjust it to fit following the below and if it does not line up start looking at #1 and #2 above.

Loosen the outer hinge bolts

Get a 4x4 piece of wood and place it between the hood and the latch panel at the grille. Close the hood down onto the wood.

Go in the cab and loosen the bolts for the hinges enough to allow movement but not sloppy loose.

Next with a helper push the back of the hood down to the cowl seal and tighten the inner bolts.

Lift the hood and tighten the other bolts. remove the wood block and close the hood.

See where its at. If it has a gap of more than 1/8 between the cab and hood at the top redo the procedure and push the hood back toward the cab to close that gap.

Once the gap is good look at the curve at the fender and see if its good or to tight or has a large gap.

This is where the cab and or fenders could be to high or to low. On an S10 swap not much you can do on lowering the rad support so i would raise the cab if the gap around the curve is to wide. Or raise the rad support if the gap is to tight.

Raising or lowering the rear of the fenders is also an option if nothing else works but do the above first

If the hood seems flared out at the curve, bend in the hinge arms toward the cowl and see if it gets better.

If it fit when you took it off then it will fit when you put it back on.

[mr48chev]

I'm still hoping for some decent photos. Can't write any better set of instructions than DWSCR gave though.

It doesn't matter what you run for a frame, stock, S-10, Subframed or custom built big buck tube chassis it all starts with getting the hood to fit the cab right and then getting the fenders to fit the cab and hood.