DIY LS swap on a budget

[mzsigler]

Originally Posted by Fandango

Looking forward to updates.

The CL links are expired, do you have any contact info for the guy in Memphis?

I'd be interested in this too.

[Green67Stepper]

Well i forgot i even had this thread going to be honest. Its been pretty busy since my last post with the holidays, job change at work, building a new garage/remodeled our downstairs and oh yea, my wife had another baby.

Well with all that being said i haven't gotten to work on the truck much. my search for a motor halted pretty quick once the house stuff started. I was able to get a few parts over Christmas though.

I picked up a set of the Speed Engineering LS Swap headers. I also got some Deadend Garage exhaust hole cutouts for the rear crossmember.

So i'm finally in a spot to buy a motor now and i think i have found a guy that has a few for sale. we will see in the coming weeks if i can make it happen or not. Fingers crossed.

[Green67Stepper]

BIG UPDATE:

I was able to pick up a 5.3l/4l60e take out for $1,300 from a local guy with around 130k miles. Trans has been rebuilt too. I used the GM Muscle Car oil pan for better ground clearance. i went ahead and pulled the intake, replaced the knock sensors and intake gaskets while it was all apart.
I got the I6 and trans pulled and the LS/trans installed. I used CPP engine stands and sliders with their trans crossmember as well.










Installed Speed Engineering shorty headers with new plugs and Taylor wires. (these wires fit perfectly for the SE headers)








Also got my Wrangler tank in and mounted. Waiting to order all the fuel lines now.






I am currently working on getting my PS and transmission lines connected. along with continuing to work on modifying the stock LS harness via LT1Swap.com

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

Actually I've had this idea before, you could get a cheap 7-10" tablet on Amazon for $45 to $90, and mount it in the place of the gauge cluster. Combined with the Torque App and the OBDII adapter you have a customizable gauge cluster for under $150.

That is what I use and it works great in my 78 Silverado

[cwii]

Anybody need a Holley oil pan LS Swap 302-1. Ive got one That I used only for mock up on a LS3 that would not fit (the pan)in a 47 chevy. Painted and scratched but no real damage, never ran or had oil in it. Complete for $275 you pay for the ride. can email pictures if needed, not smart enough to post them on the board.. fits5.3,6.0,6.2 etc. full specs on line easy to look up.
paypal address elvert1@ymail.com

Thanks Chuck

SOLD!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

Actually I've had this idea before, you could get a cheap 7-10" tablet on Amazon for $45 to $90, and mount it in the place of the gauge cluster. Combined with the Torque App and the OBDII adapter you have a customizable gauge cluster for under $150.

That is a brilliant idea. With a new compatible gauge cluster over a grand, this is a great temporary setup. I can definitely go this route for a little while. Thanks!

[stexag]

Edit - great transaction. Thanks Chuck.

Cody.

[Green67Stepper]

Well I've gotten alot more done lately. I am VERY close to getting it running for the first time. I should have my harness back this week. Then its just a matter of hooking it all up and turning the key. The only big things after that will be getting the driveshaft shortened and installing the new pedal.

Here are some updated pics.

Trans cooler mounted (before i installed the hose clamps)


power steering hose


Fuel lines


intake and cover on.


Fuel tank plumbed. Just need to run my vent hose lines. (still havent fully decided how i want to do that or which lines to use.)


shifter installed (its a 16" floor mount from Lokar)

[solidaxel]

The large vent on the sending unit I "T" into the filler neck at the top of the gas tank filler neck, the small one just put a hose and a small fuel filter on the end and mount it up high on the chassis

[Green67Stepper]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

The large vent on the sending unit I "T" into the filler neck at the top of the gas tank filler neck, the small one just put a hose and a small fuel filter on the end and mount it up high on the chassis

Then i can just cap the rest, correct? this tank/sending unit has 5 different vents so i cant decide what to use and what not to use.

[crakarjax]

I did some investigating on the vent lines on this tank/sender combo:

- The large tube on the sender is a fuel-fill tank vent, as is the smaller-but-large port on the tank next to the fuel fill; either one can be used. Imo it's easier to just use the tank one and cap off the one on the sender.

- I felt around in the tank and one of the smaller tank vent tubes ends up on the top middle of the tank, I think the other one opens up somewhere else. I believe that they are positioned to prevent bubbles from forming in the tank, to allow it to fill up all the way. I think I'll cap the sender vent off and use those two tank ports, connected to one tee (to allow the pressure to equalize) and then off to some sort of one-way vent fitting.

Looking good! Where did you find the trans cooler? Looks like pretty good packaging.

[solidaxel]

You have the most important ones, I think I would cap the rest of them

[crakarjax]

What's a good "permanent" cap to use? I think that rubber vacuum caps would rot eventually. I have some vinyl caps but not sure about the longevity of those.

[Green67Stepper]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I did some investigating on the vent lines on this tank/sender combo:

- The large tube on the sender is a fuel-fill tank vent, as is the smaller-but-large port on the tank next to the fuel fill; either one can be used. Imo it's easier to just use the tank one and cap off the one on the sender.

- I felt around in the tank and one of the smaller tank vent tubes ends up on the top middle of the tank, I think the other one opens up somewhere else. I believe that they are positioned to prevent bubbles from forming in the tank, to allow it to fill up all the way. I think I'll cap the sender vent off and use those two tank ports, connected to one tee (to allow the pressure to equalize) and then off to some sort of one-way vent fitting.

Looking good! Where did you find the trans cooler? Looks like pretty good packaging.

that makes sense too. it would be easier to just use the vent by the filler next.

As for the trans cooler, i got it from a vender at the Nashville Good Guys show for like $45.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

That is what I use and it works great in my 78 Silverado

That's pretty cool.

[LH Lead-Foot]

For oil pan, $114 will get you a late model H3 Hummer pan from GM, as the tube & stick are the same part number as stock Tahoe / Silverado. If you go with DBW, you will have cruise control. The DBW, upon key on, does an "Ice Stick" mode movement. Aftermarket A/C adds a load to the engine, like P/S at lock, the PCM will automatically set idle to pre-set 750 RPM. There are some hurdles I am looking into now as the 03 - up PCM uses an A/C sine wave type VSS signal at 128k per mile. This is called "High Speed" out put. This 2 wire system goes C2 (GRN) cavity 21 VSS low, cavity 20 VSS high. I found Dakota digital sells one for $120+ 3-wire with cable type square drive, P/N SEN-01-128 for use with TH350, 400, 200r4,700r4 with 10' cable. Column mounted cruise switch P/N "HND-3" for $42 from Dakota Digital use the 1 screw mount with wires to be feed down the column. It get wired into the TAC module, so you get 1 MPH tap up and other features. The DBW w/TAC module uses B+ for inputs to operate the cruise. I like the Intellitronix Digital Dash cluster. It come with a cable drive VSS generator 3-wire type. Using GM esi from a CD set loaded on a different laptop, the OEM VSS signal will produce A/C from 0.5 vAC to over 100 vAC around 130 MPH. I am in the planning stage also, so lots of research. BTW, my GM esi goes from about 1978 thru 2004 with electrical, diagnostics, everything...so this could help someone later with an LS swap wiring or question. But, LT1swap.com is best for most issues. Adding two cooling fans with set "On-Off" temp will be programmed into your PCM with everything else for $75. I will keep canister purge after all, it is gas fumes you paid for. I bench build an 87 vintage 7000r4 and put 5 gear pinions, pin-less pistons, 3rd check, bearing set, manual lockup valve, hard sun-shell and high end friction plus a dozen other things. Buy the way, the Tahoe drive shaft yoke fits the 700r4...as for length, if it fits, I will use a joint adaptor for 1310-1355 series. More planning needed, but I have a plan to start.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by LH Lead-Foot

For oil pan, $114 will get you a late model H3 Hummer pan from GM, as the tube & stick are the same part number as stock Tahoe / Silverado. If you go with DBW, you will have cruise control. The DBW, upon key on, does an "Ice Stick" mode movement.

It sounds like you've got some good info to share but I can't comprehend most of what you're writing about -- for instance what is an ice stick movement? I think a lot of your info could use more context around it!

[LH Lead-Foot]

When you key on with an engine using DBW, the throttle valve can stick in the bore of the housing. The system is designed to kick open the throttle blade about 5mm, then close. If stuck due to temperature change, freezing humidity causing ice or frost, it will knock it loose. If not, it will set a code. I have seen freezing on the old school Ford VV carb and on Volvo down draft, CIS fuel system.
Remember, there are no bad questions. This is a friendly place of learning. Someone always knows more than me, but I can share with you information to save money and fix your vehicle right, unlike my boys who did not care, perhaps my 40+ years of experience can help. Even though I was contract labor for ACDelco for 7 years, a handful of us where called "Legacy Instructors". I did not know what that meant, but a guy told me; "You an ASE Master right? yes. You have ASE L1 certification right? yes. You have worked on fuel injection using a 3 or 4 gas analyzer right? yes. Did you go to technical trade school? no....You're a legacy instructor due to your experience, so pass it on to other so they can repeat the customers concern, diagnose the root cause and fix the problem right the first time. PM me if you feel better about questions and provide photos if you can. Testing, like voltage drop is quick, correct, and will never lye to you...and will always allow you to find the problem in a circuit.
Always ask yourself... is this a symptom or the ROOT cause?
3 Things to remember when it comes to electrical;
#1 A test light will how the presents or absence of electrical potential
#2 A DMM will perform voltage drops and current measurements
#3 A lab scope will show you to "See" the electrical activity in a circuit. A trained eye & experience will tell you if it is right or wrong.