NY WTB Ball stud bracket for small Block

[rsavage]

My 69 Blazer K5 came with a bracket that bolts to the block that the ball stud is screwed to. It moves the ball stud 5" forward of the hole in the block where it is normally located. It looks like it has been welded so I would prefer to find one that has not been adulterated. I can't move the z bar backwards so it would line up across from the hole in the block because the linkage bar can't reach it as it hits on the bottom of the hole through the firewall before reaching the z bar arm. So, I need a bracket. If you have one please pm me with price and post a photo. Shipping to 14004.

OR, if a 4X4 should have a z bar with a longer arm that would meet the linkage arm at a less severe angle let me know. I have no idea what has been done to this over the past 50 years. Thanks

[randy500]

You should probably post a picture of your current set up. The bracket sounds like a 2wd bracket...

[rsavage]

Originally Posted by randy500

You should probably post a picture of your current set up. The bracket sounds like a 2wd bracket...

The set up worked with the small block that I removed and junked but I don't like the bracket. The bracket moves the ball stud up 5" towards the front. The picture with the z bar is just sitting over the holes in the frame. If I moved the bracket back 5", the rod from the clutch pedal wouldn't reach the z bar as it would hit the bottom of the hole in the firewall before it could get to the z bar. It was originally a six cylinder truck by VIN and I have no idea when an 8 was transplanted. Would like to use the regular ball stud set up, but if I can't I'd like a new block bracket that moves the ball stud forward the 5" so it aligns with current z bar mounting.

[A1971Blazer]

Just guessing here but......that looks like something that someone has fabricated...for whatever reason?....I don't see the factory doing some trucks different than others as far as the clutch linkage and brackets is concerned...perhaps you may need to find all the correct factory pieces to make it work..

[rsavage]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

Just guessing here but......that looks like something that someone has fabricated...for whatever reason?....I don't see the factory doing some trucks different than others as far as the clutch linkage and brackets is concerned...perhaps you may need to find all the correct factory pieces to make it work..

4X4 motors sit back further than 2WD, with the distributor right up against the firewall. 2WD will line up across from the ball stud in the block. I had a 70 K10 4 speed but I can't remember if that used a similar bracket (this one is home brew it appears). Is your Blazer stick or auto?

[A1971Blazer]

The one I was referring to was a '71 parts Blazer I bought.........it was a factory 4 speed..
the ball stud was screwed right into the block..in the normal location....not offset (I still have the motor).

[randy500]

Looks like a nice blazer with a full restoration, I would put the stock parts back on it.
There are stock parts that fit properly, whether some that you have now are correct, I am not sure because I am not a 4wd expert. I do know that the picture of your engine, if that is yours, the ball stud appears to be correct.

You should mount the engine and trans in the frame and see if the frame bracket lines up with the ball stud.
The bell crank could be wrong.
There is a 6 cyl 292 engine crossmember and a V8 one, not sure if the 250 6 cyl crossmember is different from the V8 one.

What does the VIN show as original engine? V8 or 6 cyl, what about the SPID?

[rsavage]

No spid but vin indicates it was born as a six. I called the guy who bought my 70 K10 short a few years ago and asked him to take some photos of the clutch set up in it. That was bone stock. I have a good memory but it is short! Otherwise I would remember what that had. Only want to put the engine in once and I have some paint work to do on the frame, suspension, etc.so don't want it in the way. I measure from the center of the motor mount to the ball stud I put in the block and from the center of the z bar bracket to the center of the motor mount hole on the stand, so I can get an accurate measurement. I do believe that the crossmember is correct by the way the small block sat in it when I bought it. Had an HEI distributor in it and the PO dinged in the firewall a little to get the distributor in it (all smoothed out now). I do all my vehicles to stock so I'll get the right parts as soon as I figure out what it is I need.

[richard2717]

Rick
Let me dig thru my parts. I seem to recall having what you need. I will also get you a picture of my setup on the 72 I have sitting here if you need it for reference. It was originally 6 cyl and has v8 now

[richard2717]

here are a couple pics of what I have along with the 6 to 8 blazer setup. The motor mounts are in the rear holes

The ball stud bracket is 1st pic far left pc

.

[randy500]

I will throw in what I know about manual linkage...2wd knowledge but I bet it still applies...

6cyl and 8 cyl have a different frame bracket, they look very similar but are almost symmetrically opposite.

The frame brackets face opposite when installed. I have both brackets and can post a picture.
I think the 2wd frame brackets are the same as 4wd.

I have an automatic 4wd in the shop and some linkage, I will go look at it better.

[randy500]

Engine crossmember is missing bolts but screwdriver shows its mounted in rear holes.
Factory riveted v8 frame bracket perfectly lines up with stud hole in block

[randy500]

Better pic of block hole alignment

[randy500]

V8 frame brackets off the frame

[randy500]

6 cyl frame bracket is closest and is what you and Richard have
Pictures of frame brackets in this and last post show installed orientation

[rsavage]

Originally Posted by richard2717

here are a couple pics of what I have along with the 6 to 8 blazer setup. The motor mounts are in the rear holes

The ball stud bracket is 1st pic far left pc

.

Richard, Thanks for the photos. I think I have it figured out between your and Randy's photos. The ball stud on both of the blocks you bth show is screwed into a hole that is under the dipstick between cylinders 5 and 7. My 1980 bloc is tapped further back above the oil filter. Consequently, I have to use the bracket or drill and tap the boss on the block by the dipstick tube. I am leaning towards using the bracket as I don't really want to take a chance on wrecking essentially a brand new never run motor by drilling it an tapping.

[randy500]

Looking back at your engine and frame pictures.

Your crossmember is mounted in forward holes, again I don't know if 6cyl an dv8 are same crossmember, I think they might be.
Your block does not have the clutch pivot hole drilled for 4wd application.
You have a 6 cyl frame bracket and push rod, the push rod in Richards picture of the parts off the truck is of a v8 pushrod, the curved portion mounts to the bell crank.

[rsavage]

Randy and Richard. Thanks very much for your help. You guys went way beyond in taking and posting the photos. Super appreciated! Richard I'd like to buy the bracket but it appears that one of the bolts fastening it to the engine goes into the boss by the dipstick that isn't drilled and tapped on my block. The rear of the bracket must bolt to the hole where I put my ball stud. If you want to sell it, I would probably buy it just in case I get brave enough to risk drilling the block. PM me with what you want if you want to let it go. THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO HELPED.

[randy500]

Your welcome and since I am invested in this with my time I will give some advice too...

I would put the V8 parts in it and mount the engine where the general intended it, you have a lot of money invested in that truck and its not a lot more to finish it up right.
Drilling and tapping cast iron is super easy.
Anybody that walks up and looks under the hood will spot the 6cyl linkage, frame mount and push rod right off.
You may also encounter problems later on with the modified bracket that will give you headaches, floppy linkage and clutch engage/disengagement, issues, etc.

[rsavage]

Randy, I do have a curved upper push rod that I found in my garage attic today. I'll check the frame bracket again as I just had the z bar laying in it.

[1rippen6]

Late to the game but here's what I found of the manual parts

[rsavage]

1rippen6,
I drilled and tapped the block boss that is by the dipstick which is exactly 5" forward of the rear (2wd) ball stud hole in the block. The engine crossmember is already in the rear holes just as it should be as the stock driveshafts, rear transmission crossmember, transfer case mount etc. would not line up. I had my friend who bought my 70 K10 some years ago send me some photos of that totally stock set up and the forward boss is the place for the 4X4 V8 ball stud.The newer block does not have the forward boss drilled and tapped. The 305 block that I removed and scrapped was also a newer gen 1 block with no forward hole and that is why it had the hokey bracket. So, problem solved with no bracket needed. Thanks for responding though.