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05-26-2004, 10:35 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Billings, Montana
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Another Rear Question.. Well two.. but easy ones!
Ok, two more questions... I can repair my rear end for $30... I need to replace two spider gears in the posi unit... I have the little bolt that holds that big bar off, the two spider gears go on the bar, but i can't seem to get the bar to come all the way it, its moves a bit now, but wont come out, any suggestions?
here is a picture, you can see the bar.. .the two spider gears are gone, as they blew apart also the two "washers"? that go on the outside of them... but everything else is perfect... here is basically what i need minus the two side gears... Also, when i am all done.. I know this is stupid... But how exactly do i fill the rear end back up with oil? Thanks guys and gals....
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Chris www.70chargerrt500.150m.com Last edited by ShortBedChevy; 05-26-2004 at 10:46 AM. |
05-26-2004, 11:20 AM | #2 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
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Location: Birmingham, AL
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To get the crosspin out:
Push the axles in, remove the C-clips, pull the axles back out partially (so they aren't in the gears) and pull the gears out. Then push the crosspin out. For filling: There is a plug on the passenger side of the axle remove it and fill until it starts pouring out.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
05-27-2004, 10:09 AM | #3 |
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Sounds good, thanks a lot!
Do i need to remove the tires from the truck to slide the axles out a bit? they are 6 lug... Thanks!
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Chris www.70chargerrt500.150m.com |
05-27-2004, 10:16 AM | #4 |
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Removing the tires will make everything a LOT easier to deal with, especially getting everything put back together. You will not run as much risk messing up the splines, either.
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1974 Jimmy- 5.3/4L80e/NP241 |
05-27-2004, 10:26 AM | #5 |
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alright great, thats about all i need to know i believe... Well, i can leave the drum brakes on though right? that is mostly the reason i dont want to put in an intire new rear.. that and this is a cheaper way..
Thank you guys so much!
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Chris www.70chargerrt500.150m.com |
05-27-2004, 10:44 AM | #6 |
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You are going to have remove the tires and the drum to get the axle out.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
05-27-2004, 01:02 PM | #7 |
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The shaft you are trying to remove must come out BEFORE the axle C-clips and axles can be removed. Are you sure that all of the bolt came out. It is very comon for them to break off near the end of the threads. A striaght pin like protrusion extends far beyond the threaded portion of the bolt.
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05-28-2004, 10:23 AM | #8 |
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Location: Billings, Montana
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I finally got the pin out.. we all must be talking about different things because i didnt have to remove my axles.. i believe its call the differential pin, or spider gear pin or something like that.. the reason i couldnt get it out, was because it was actually bent!!!
Pictures coming soon
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Chris www.70chargerrt500.150m.com |
05-28-2004, 11:43 PM | #9 |
Ob-Gyn Kenobi
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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When I redid my rearend, my pin was bent also...
If you can get all four gears cheap, do it.. Over time the gears will develop a wear pattern, and when you swap out a few of them, you may notice they don't run too smoothly after.. This is because the newer gears have a different wear pattern. (which is why you get a matched ring and pinion) If you can swap all of them, you can avoid this.. I guess it all depends on how much $$ you have, how picky you are, and how much work you want to do..
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