What do I need?

[72kool]

I'm not trying to be a broken record,but I don't trust myself to say I've thought of everything. Quick story,I pulled engine to do a refresh on it and it needs for machine work. Bored out, and everything. With the cost and this going to be my daily driver, even though I was against it for a long time, I'm considering going ahead with an ls swap. I never wanted the electronics and to follow the masses,but only a fool denies truth in front of his face. Ls is a better engine in most cases.
.so my questions are, where is the most detailed list posted?

And where can I get the best deals for what I need?

I'm trying to figure out if I can fit an ls swap in my tight budget. I can get a good engine for cheap here so I'm looking strictly at cost of everything else. Engine mounts, tanks, fuel supply, ecm conversion, etc. How cheap can I do this?

It's going in my 72 c20 and would like a 6.0 but I know. 5 3 would be just fine for what I do. Is there anything that would be different in the swaps between using a 6.0 or 5 3 aside from the actual engines themselves? Thanks for all the help

[cebra]

I did not do it on the cheap at all but here is my cost and a comprehensive list, add or remove as needed.

LS Swap
Speedo Swap Template 30 Chevytrucks
Speedo Box 54 Chevytrucks
96' S-10 Speedo 35 Ebay
Gas Tank/Straps 131 Summit
Wrangler Fuel Filler 17 LKQ
Gas Cap 12 Autozone
Sending Unit 33 Autozone
Gas Tank Hardware 28 Tractor Supply
Gas Tank Hardware 26 Home Depot
Gas Tank Hardware 8 Lowes
Gas Tank Hardware 6 Napa
Gas Tank Hardware 13 Autozone
Fuel Hose 2 O'Reilly
Gas Tank Hose 17 Advance
Fuel Line/Fittings 35 Autozone
Gas Tank Line/HW 37 Advance
Fuel Line/Fittings 88 Jegs
Trans Crossmember 54 Jegs
Dirty Dingo Mounts 158 Dirty Dingo
C10 Clutch Pedal 15 Rossmans
LS Swap Headers 295 Speed Eng
LS Airbox 24 LKQ
Mass Air Flow Sensor 34 LKQ
LS Intake Manifold 29 LKQ
Paint 10 Walmart
Paint 16 Autozone
GM Muscle Car Oil Pan 230 Jegs
Header Flanges 8 Jegs
EVAP Plate 11 Ebay
Clutch Master Cyl 64 Speedway
Clutch Line/Fittings 48 Speedway
Clutch Bleeder 27 Speedway
EP381 Fuel Pump 65 Rock Auto
NV3500 Trans 825 Jordan Auto
Shifter 50 Jordan Auto
Driveshaft 75 Jordan Auto
Header Paint 11 Autozone
Clutch Fitting 5 Ebay
Throwout Bearing 39 Rock Auto
Clutch Kit 160 Rock Auto
Flywheel 65 Rock Auto
Trans Mount 7 Rock Auto
Trans Bolts 10 Ebay
Clutch Pedal Pad 6 Summit
Flywheel Bolts 21 Ebay
Clutch Bolts 9 Ebay
OP Gauge Fitting 20 Speedway
Trans Paint 7 Autozone
Clutch Master Bracket 161 Forum
ECM 33 LKQ
Alternator 30 LKQ
Mass Air Flow Sensor 22 LKQ
Engine Cover 10 LKQ
Battery Junction 3 LKQ
4.8L LS Engine 831 LKQ
Standalone Harness 513 BP Automotive
ECM Reflash 138 BP Automotive
Plug Wires 60 Speed Eng
Starter 76 Rock Auto
Valve Cover Gasket 12 Rock Auto
Tensioner 19 Rock Auto
Idler 14 Rock Auto
O2 Sensors 42 Rock Auto
Coil Pack 22 Rock Auto
Thermostat 19 Rock Auto
PCV Valve 3 Autozone
Steam Vent Connector 6 Ebay
EGR Block off Plate 13 Ebay
Drive Belt 20 Rock Auto
Flywheel Cover 8 Rock Auto
Radiator Hose 13 Rock Auto
Alt/PS Bracket 30 LKQ
Battery Cable 13 LKQ
Valve Cover 25 LKQ
PS Pump 72 Rock Auto
Starter Bolts 12 Ebay
Fuel Lines 87 Jegs
Fuel Filter 29 Jegs
PS Pump Pulley 11 LKQ
Clutch Hardware 16 LMC
Fuel Rail Fittings 28 Ebay
Throttle Cable 27 Ebay
WT Gauge Adapter 16 Ebay
ECM Mount 22 Ebay
Upper Rad Hose 17 Ebay
Collector Gaskets 21 Autozone
LS Pulley Hardware 11 LKQ
Idler Pulley 21 Rock Auto
Windstar E-fans 74 Rock Auto
E-fan Connectors 19 Rock Auto
Fan Fuse Holders 12 Ebay
E-fan Electrical 45 Autozone
E-fan Electrical 18 Walmart
E-fan Hardware 7 Lowes
Swap Labor 3,280 Dreadnought
Trans Pigtails 21 Rock Auto
Water Temp Gauge 27 Ebay
Ground Straps 9 Ebay
Collector Flanges 30 Ebay
TPS Sensor 35 Autozone
Hoses/Hw 21 Autozone
Driveshaft 250 Triangle DS

Total 9,344

[cebra]

Related to above, labor cost is a big one for me as I got in a bind where I couldn't do the swap myself (parking lot engine swaps frowned upon). I also paid ~4x the price to put in a manual that you could do a 6l80. I got my motor barebones so I had to buy things like harness, intake manifold, ps pump, starter, alternator, etc etc....all that added up very quickly. I would use this more for a starting point of potential parts rather than the average cost. Mine sort of snowballed but to be honest I do not regret it at all. Very turn key, good gas mileage, run 85 mph with no issues.

[cj847]

It all depends on what you can do yourself, what kind of shopper you are, and what other changes you want to do.

I am putting an LS in my Willys wagon and doing almost everything myself (fuel pump, wire harness, mounts, etc.) It is going to be about $4000-4500. That does not include the new driveshaft and some stuff that cebra listed.

For example, I bought a pair of 2010 Camero exhaust manifolds for $100 vs aftermarket $300 or headers $300-600.

Buy your engine complete with all accessories and wire harness. I gave $1100 for an engine and trans with 129,000 on the clock. It was missing a drive pulley for the PS but I had one at home. All those accessories will nickel and dime you to the poorhouse.

Yes, you can spend thousands on aftermarket intakes etc, etc. If you do the research you will find that (according to the dyno) the best intake is the Trailblazer SS stock intake, second is the plain old truck intake (better than the much better looking early ls camero intakes). Do you want performance or looks?

Basically you have 4 separate projects:
1) Buy a motor and or transmission.
2) Provide a fuel system for it.
3) Provide gaging to monitor new engine.
4) Provide drivetrain connections for swap.
5) Might need to do something with your cooling system.

You can buy and engine, a cheap fuel pump, hook it to your turbo 350, and run gages on your I phone for probably $3000. But in my mind that is not much of a daily driver.

[mongocanfly]

As you can see above,prices vary drastically....you can spend as much as you want..
If your trying to do it on the cheap,heres what id recommend..

Get yourself a LS engine...5.3 or 6.0,,your choice ...6.0s are higher priced..
Use Ebay motor mount adapter plates..
Use your current trans..so no d-shaft work needed...you'll need a flexplate adapter..
Stock manifolds may or may not work..if not use Camaro or tbss manis
Stock radiator will work fine..hoses will have to be worked out..use mech fan
You'll need fuel pump...inline pump with vett filter/reg is cheapest way out..but you'll need a return port on the tank..you'll need high pressure hoses for this..
Wiring harness..stock harness can be reworked or you can get a custom harness..
There is a Ebay harness for a few hundred bucks that would be the cheapest option for storebought
Ecm will need reprogrammed..dyno tune to optimize
dbc will be cheaper than dbw

It can be done for $ or $$$$$...just decide on a budget..
It can be done cheaper than most of us spend on it though..

There is no physical difference between the 5.3 and 6.0

[my kids toy]

Cost will depend on how much work you want to do yourself and how fast you want it to happen, trying to cut corners and doing it on the cheap will take longer and be a lot more work for you.
Best option is Find a running /driving 1999 and up 2 wheel drive truck for the engine and trans and ecu Ect. $700-$1500 a drive by cable is easier to set up then a drive by wire.
stand alone harness will be $500-$900 it will need a dyno tune after you get it all going for $300-$500
Do it yourself with original harness maybe $300-$400 and a lot of work and time.
Exhaust - $800-$1000 for headers mufflers and a shop to build the exhaust pipes
radiator $500-$800
motor mounts $100-$150
Aftermarket trans crossmember mount $150-$200
dakato digital gauges $800 from forum sponsor or do a lot of work to build your own.
Drive shaft $200
gas tank- modify stock tank or put one in the rear, plug and play will be $800-$1000 by the time you get tank and hoses ect. or buy a cheap pump and modify everything $100-$150
Intake breather set up $200
oil pan-Cadillac $250ish

[weim55]

You didn’t mention your main reasons for upgrading to the LS. Another option is to stay with a TBI or SFI first generation 350. You won’t quite reach the power of grade of the LS but EVERYTHING is easier and much less spendy.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[kipps]

Couple things to remember if sticking to a budget, most of which I didn't follow.

Drive by cable will be cheaper and easier to integrate. Doing so means you don't have to mess with rewiring the throttle pedal to get a direct connection to inside the cab.

Mechanical cooling fan will, overall, be the cheaper option to electric fans. Sure, the cost of buying a fan and clutch may be the same as a junkyard e-fan package, but it avoids the cost of relays, wire, fuses, and mounting adapters.

Buy a non-AFM engine, and don't open it up.

If the engine was running good when you bought it, and the miles are not excessive, leave everything together that you can when installing. It saves the cost of gaskets and the cost of "I'm-in-here-anyway-so-why-not" syndrome.

Earlier, I would have said you have to remove the intake to install the engine, but Gregski of "Restoring Rusty" stuck one in without removing the intake. Look in the '73-'87 message board for that thread. He installed the engine in the last month or two, so it's near the end of his thread.

[clay68c10]

If you can weld and fabricate, that will help. Also diy wiring will save $$.
Anything you don’t have to farm out, or buy swap kits for will be the money savers.
I’m in the middle of a 6.0 swap on mine and I’m trying to make everything myself.

[72kool]

Thanks for all the info so far. I have some planning to do now. I can do most anything so I can save alot of money by doing most anything myself vs buying it. I have found two places near me that I can get a complete 5.3 with all the wiring, computer, dbc and all accessories included for 550. Seems like a steal. I'm thinking to save money I would keep the existing transmission and buy the adapter for the flexplate.

The only thing I do not trust myself to do is the wiring so that is where my money will have to be spent. I could do it, but I hate wiring. Just not my thing.

Another thing to consider, is I have a u pull it nearby that has alot of ls powered vehicles in it that has good prices. So anything I can use for the other parts, I could try to get out of a u pull it. Anybody know what they best fitting fuel tank for these trucks are for between the rails that I can fill from the bed floor?

I have to get everything together but I'm leaning really hard towards making the jump and going fuel injected one way or another on this truck

[mongocanfly]

I'm not sure on your truck but the blazer or mustang tanks seem fairly popular for between rails with alot of trucks...

[cebra]

Originally Posted by 72kool

Thanks for all the info so far. I have some planning to do now. I can do most anything so I can save alot of money by doing most anything myself vs buying it. I have found two places near me that I can get a complete 5.3 with all the wiring, computer, dbc and all accessories included for 550. Seems like a steal. I'm thinking to save money I would keep the existing transmission and buy the adapter for the flexplate.

The only thing I do not trust myself to do is the wiring so that is where my money will have to be spent. I could do it, but I hate wiring. Just not my thing.

Another thing to consider, is I have a u pull it nearby that has alot of ls powered vehicles in it that has good prices. So anything I can use for the other parts, I could try to get out of a u pull it. Anybody know what they best fitting fuel tank for these trucks are for between the rails that I can fill from the bed floor?

I have to get everything together but I'm leaning really hard towards making the jump and going fuel injected one way or another on this truck

I would buy that $300 Chinese harness that there is a thread about on here (something like "harness alternative" thread) then there are like 5 wires to hook up, I think the board has come to the conclusion it is the same harness as a higher cost name brand harness without the brand stamped on it. I bought a BP automotive harness for $550, it is sh!t to be honest and they have horrible customer service. I may very well end up ripping it out and buying the aforementioned $300 harness. For $300, you can barely buy a junkyard harness and make it standalone.

I recommend the 88 Wrangler tank, 92 S10 sender, and EP381 fuel pump for between the rails, is a baffled tank, and works with stock fuel gauge and LS motor. It is the cheapest way to go I think for a between the rails option.

The fuel system is the most expensive, then you need unlocked ECU...in hindsight I would have a local tuner come over and do this after the swap for $250 or so, harness above, you can get mounts for like $25 now on ebay, I bough sliders, they are junk and not worth the money. Exhaust manifolds TBSS maybe $100, you can make your gauges work very easily less speedo, do the S10 swap it is maybe $60....radiator hoses are cheap, I would use the LS trans and make a crossmember and get a DS cut before I would pay for an adapter but up to you. I think if you fabbed everything yourself and only bought the cheapest/minimum parts you could get by with $1,500 in parts + cost of motor.

You will not regret going LS, it is fantastic.