Upgrade to Front Coilover

[66_c10_tpi]

I am looking to upgrade the stock front suspension to coilovers. Looking for recommendations on whose systems to use?

[Captainfab]

Porterbuilt makes a very nice coil over front suspension.

http://pbfab.com/67-72-front-dropmember-coilovers

[66_c10_tpi]

Thanks Captainfab but that is a little out of my price range. I am thinking more along the line of something that uses the factory cross member.

[PGSigns]

QA1 has a setup to di it with the stock front cross member.
https://www.qa1.net/complete-c10-fro...version-system
Still not a inexpensive swap.
Jimmy

[66_c10_tpi]

PGSigns I will check them out. Thanks

[forestb]

cpp sells one also

[66_c10_tpi]

I have checked the QA1. One issue I see is that you have to adjust the ball joints every 3000 miles or annually which ever comes first. To do this you have to disconnect the ball joints from the spindle. This might be Ok if it was a race vehicle but I don’t think i would want to have to do this.

[Captainfab]

If you can fabricate or know someone that can, this will give you some idea what can be done with the stock front suspension

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=coilover

[66_c10_tpi]

Captainfab I have looked at the link. Since I don't have tubular arms I will probably just purchase the system from POL. I am still not for sure if I want to go the coil over route or just upgrade to tubular arms.

[Captainfab]

You don't have to have tubular control arms to convert to coilovers. You will just have to fabricate something different for the lower mount than what was shown in the link.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 66_c10_tpi

I am looking to upgrade the stock front suspension to coilovers. Looking for recommendations on whose systems to use?

Nobody else has asked so I will.... What is your intended driving 'style'?

If all you plan on changing is the stock coil spring for a 'coil-over' & want to keep everything else the same (parts), how is swapping to C/O's an upgrade?

[66_c10_tpi]

I am not going to autocrossing or anything. I just want something will be comfortable on long drives. I was first thinking of just upgrading to later model a arms. But by the time i purchase a set out the junk yard and rebuilt them i would still have a system 40 years old. I was then thinking about tubular a arms. But if i go that route then decide later on coil over i would have to modify them. My truck is torn down now and i thought this would be the perfect time to do the install.

I was hoping to get some responses from someone that has done the change over and see how they like it.

[SCOTI]

If you plan to re-use 6x-87 control arms, I'd just stick w/the factory coil set-up & invest in adjustable shocks.

Hotchkis has a nice 'updated spec' OE arrangement set-up.
Ridetech has a C/O front suspension kit the bolts to your original style crossmember after some old parts are removed (requires busting some rivets).
QA1's stuff looked pretty nice when I saw it @ the C10 Nats earlier this year. Not sure why the BJ requires adjusting. That alone would steer me elsewhere.
NoLimit has a nice set-up but it's a complete crossmember swap as is Porterbuilts C/O stuff.

If you're just driving, I would opt for arms that pivot vs bind. Delrin is hard & pivots; Poly is hard & binds; Rubber binds but offers cushion/flex so the bind isn't as pronounced. Aftermarket arms offer the possibility for increased caster but that can also be obtained using tweaked OE parts by re-drilling the lower a-arm cross-shafts to push them forward. A decent spring rate (800-1,000# fronts), some adjustable shocks, fresh steering box w/modern ratio & a good sway bar is night/day diff vs a stock spec set-up.

So, upgrading to a better suspension can be done using the OE parts but it's still based on >50yr old technology (albeit improved). An aftermarket set-up can be had w/updated technology & R&P steering. Your budget will likely steer some of the decision process.

What's the budget?

[66_c10_tpi]

I am hoping to not spend over $1500.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 66_c10_tpi

I am hoping to not spend over $1500.

Then rebuild the front suspension & dial in the alignment to modern set-points vs. 60's/70's specs. Adjustable shocks (just shocks; Ridetechs) would be over/around $400.

[SkinnyG]

+1 on rebuild what you have and give it a modern alignment.

If you just want the ability to adjust ride height, look into circle track weight jackers.

[theastronaut]

Coilovers aren't anything special other than being able to easily adjust the ride height if you're not racing. If you're racing then having known spring rates that are easily exchanged can be a benefit of since springs are available in a wide range of rates and lengths. But you can get the same performance or ride quality with separate springs and shocks.

If you're just looking for ride comfort then you can get good results from the stock suspension with a few mods. These trucks ride and drive pretty good with good shocks and a good alignment. I would suggest an alignment that has -.5 camber, as much caster as possible, and around 1/16" toe in. You can modify the lower control arm shafts to allow more caster if needed. Lowering the truck with drop spindles will lower the center of gravity so it'll have less body roll/pitch through curves and over bumps.

The biggest single upgrade you can make for drivability will be to swap the stock steering box for a CPP 500 series quick ratio power steering box, or a No Limit Engineering rack and pinion kit. The stock steering box's really slow ratio is pretty annoying, and most are worn with a lot of play in the steering wheel now.

My old '66 had dropped spindles/disc brakes from CPP, stock springs with 1.5 coils cut off, the bump stop bracket completely cut off, upper shock mount relocated farther up the frame, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, and CPP's 1.25" sway bar. The rear had the shocks relocated to the outside of the frame rail, drop springs, drop blocks, a small pipe notch, and an 80's F150 sway bar. The truck rode better than dad's completely stock '66 due to the better shock damping rates, lower center of gravity, and sway bars. It drove great on the interstate- tracked straight and was very stable even over 90 mph. I sold it before I swapped over to CPP power steering, that would have been the only thing I would've changed. You could easily stay within your budget doing these mods and have a really great driving truck.

IMO, there's no reason to "upgrade" to 73-87 a-arms. The geometry isn't improved any, and the rubber bushings wear out/go soft/rot over time. The inner rubber bushings are also much larger diameter so it reduced ground clearance on lowered trucks, and that's already the lowest point of the truck.