Toying with an idea...??

[Subdude59]

Please post updated pics and build details of your buddies 66 Burb as he makes progress. I like all but the interior cage. So cool!

[rpmerf]

Originally Posted by parb

But suspension is something i am not very comfortable with. And if i would try to make a modern daily driver out of a 72 blazer suspension would be high on the list. i would like for it to drive like a modern car with proportional steering, cruise control, and none of that scary body roll if i have to turn hard if i'm cut off in traffic.

i assume coil over suspension and modern sway bars will make it ride like a modern car? But are there proven kits that work? Or do i have to experiment until i find something that work? This is what worries me, i have zero experience in this area.

It is a bit easier on the 2WD trucks, as they sit a bit lower, and have more room for suspension travel. The front axle requires the vehicle to sit high. Here is where I would be looking:

1: Shocks. Different shocks have different ride characteristics. If yours are old and blown out, a new set can make a big difference. Usually pretty cheap and easy to replace.
2: Suspension bushings, all around. I'd do engine mounts and body mounts too.
3: Sway bars. Front and rear. I would think the rear 2WD kits would fit on a 4WD. Might look at what they used on a later (like 87-91? Suburban). I'm pretty sure my 97 Suburban has a rear sway bar.
4: Springs and lowering. Lower it if you can. There is a real balance of travel and spring rate. Too soft and you bottom out too much. Too hard and it gets sketchy over bumps. If you decrease travel, you want to increase the spring rate, so it takes the same amount of force to bottom out the suspension. This is a lot easier on 2WD with drop spindles up front, as they can keep the same springs and suspension travel. However, you need to worry about the wheel hitting the fender.
5: Next level would be to swap in the independent front suspension from a 88-98 generation truck.

I feel tires should be mentioned in here too. Given that you likely have 6"+ of sidewall, more pressure or a stiffer sidewall can make a bit of a difference. Again, a balance.

Proportional steering: If you mean the steering that is less sensitive in the middle, the 73-87 factory boxes should have that, and swap right in. If you want it less sensitive with speed, that would be more difficult.

Cruise is a little difficult without EFI. There are factory cruise kits that come up here every once in a while. A quick google search reveals there are aftermarket cruise control kits.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...00-3/overview/

QA1 has stuff for the C10s, but it looks like they don't for the K's. Looks like there are front coil over setups out there.

Lots of questions to ask yourself. How is it now compared to factory? How much do you want to invest to make make it better? Suspension rebuild with some add-ons, or cut out the old suspension, and install a whole new setup?

[parb]

Originally Posted by Subdude59

Please post updated pics and build details of your buddies 66 Burb as he makes progress. I like all but the interior cage. So cool!

I'm with you. Its super cool but the interior bracing is not for me.

[parb]

Originally Posted by rpmerf

It is a bit easier on the 2WD trucks, as they sit a bit lower, and have more room for suspension travel. The front axle requires the vehicle to sit high. Here is where I would be looking:

1: Shocks. Different shocks have different ride characteristics. If yours are old and blown out, a new set can make a big difference. Usually pretty cheap and easy to replace.
2: Suspension bushings, all around. I'd do engine mounts and body mounts too.
3: Sway bars. Front and rear. I would think the rear 2WD kits would fit on a 4WD. Might look at what they used on a later (like 87-91? Suburban). I'm pretty sure my 97 Suburban has a rear sway bar.
4: Springs and lowering. Lower it if you can. There is a real balance of travel and spring rate. Too soft and you bottom out too much. Too hard and it gets sketchy over bumps. If you decrease travel, you want to increase the spring rate, so it takes the same amount of force to bottom out the suspension. This is a lot easier on 2WD with drop spindles up front, as they can keep the same springs and suspension travel. However, you need to worry about the wheel hitting the fender.
5: Next level would be to swap in the independent front suspension from a 88-98 generation truck.

I feel tires should be mentioned in here too. Given that you likely have 6"+ of sidewall, more pressure or a stiffer sidewall can make a bit of a difference. Again, a balance.

Proportional steering: If you mean the steering that is less sensitive in the middle, the 73-87 factory boxes should have that, and swap right in. If you want it less sensitive with speed, that would be more difficult.

Cruise is a little difficult without EFI. There are factory cruise kits that come up here every once in a while. A quick google search reveals there are aftermarket cruise control kits.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...00-3/overview/

QA1 has stuff for the C10s, but it looks like they don't for the K's. Looks like there are front coil over setups out there.

Lots of questions to ask yourself. How is it now compared to factory? How much do you want to invest to make make it better? Suspension rebuild with some add-ons, or cut out the old suspension, and install a whole new setup?

I've called and talked to a couple of suspension companies. While they all want to sell their stuff they pretty much agree with you. Lower the blazer for a better ride. 2" inches lower increases the way it handles dramatically. Add Swaybars on top of that.

if you're not lowering then keep the stock suspension (obviously repair it if its worn or broken) and consider just adding a swaybar to the truck.

Since i'm thinking fuel injected LS3 i think it would not be hugely challenging to add cruise control to that.

I think i got enough research done. Maybe i'll type it up and see if i can get the costs under control.