Why not drill the fire wall for brake booster?

[Fatherof3]

Having the booster out a ways from the firewall a little like the CaptainFab bracket does would have decreased the angle of my push rod. With that I may have been able to use the hole I drilled 1 1/2" lower on the pedal arm and also a smaller bore master cylinder.

[rvrfoot]

It looks cleaner with the booster next to the firewall.

[Fatherof3]

I really like having it back out of the way as much as possible.

[Captainfab]

Thank you Rocknrod. Most people just don't understand the importance of the booster/master assembly being bolted directly to the pedal bracket the way GM designed it to be.

[rvrfoot]

If no one changed anything everything will still be stock nothing will be custom.

[Lugnutz65]

Here is my 2 cents. I have a 1963 inline 230 in my 1963 truck. I found a brake booster that would allow me to keep my 1963 factory air cleaner. The new brake booster with disc/drum MC was $99 delivered. You can see the complete installation process - LINK HERE TO MY BLOG POST.

I used the CaptainFab bracket because it still keeps the engine bay looking clean. I'm very pleased with how the brakes perform and how things look clean inside the engine bay.

[66x3]

Captain, I have access to a power booster bracket from an original 66, If I get a master say for a 71-72 do you know if I can make that work ? I have already switched over to a dual master for a 67 on my 66 C20 but plan to do a crossmember from either a 71 C20 or a 79 C20 ( I have both).

[Captainfab]

The original '66 power brake booster has the long intermediate pushrod for a master with a deep bore in the back of the master cylinder piston. The '71-'72 master has the shallow bore. So in short, no that will not work.

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Here are pics of the brake pedal assembly (off the truck) with the booster installed.
Capn Fabs bracket doesnt change the factory mounting holes and as you see the factory uses the bracket inside the truck for strength.

What booster are you using?

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by arkracing

What booster are you using?

The gold one I am now not using is the 11" shown here, the chrome one now in use is the 9":
https://www.atracingworld.com/search...rake%20booster

[EricU]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Here is my 2 cents. I have a 1963 inline 230 in my 1963 truck. I found a brake booster that would allow me to keep my 1963 factory air cleaner. The new brake booster with disc/drum MC was $99 delivered. You can see the complete installation process - LINK HERE TO MY BLOG POST.

I used the CaptainFab bracket because it still keeps the engine bay looking clean. I'm very pleased with how the brakes perform and how things look clean inside the engine bay.

I know this is kind of old, but very nice write up with photos.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by arkracing

What booster are you using?

Here you go I found the list - http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...&postcount=183

[66x3]

Hey Captain, we talked before about putting a dual chamber master on a truck (66) with factory power brakes. Wouldn't it be possible to experiment with the rod length using say a 67ish master? I definitely agree with your idea of using the factory holes for attachment versus just drilling through the firewall.

[66x3]

Or maybe just remove the booster and use a 67 master? Seems like a cheaper easier route while still being safer

[short&wide65]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Here you go I found the list - http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...&postcount=183

That list is 7 years old. Any others been tested?

[Captainfab]

A '67-'70 master will work if you are staying with 4 wheel drum brakes in either a power assist or manual.

Originally Posted by 66x3

Hey Captain, we talked before about putting a dual chamber master on a truck (66) with factory power brakes. Wouldn't it be possible to experiment with the rod length using say a 67ish master? I definitely agree with your idea of using the factory holes for attachment versus just drilling through the firewall.

Originally Posted by 66x3

Or maybe just remove the booster and use a 67 master? Seems like a cheaper easier route while still being safer