Went from 80s to 70s block, alternator bracket is longer....

[ellisjay2]

My accessory bracket for alternator is longer than the set up my 80s block had, which I was worried about before I swapped to 70s block, (3970010) power steering pump side is fine but alternator side is touching passenger fender well. Can just swap brackets going back with the shorter one from other block???

The headers on driver side are touch frame also.....figured just grind something down or cut into frame a little????

[kwmech]

I've never seen any kind of bracket like that. Must be some kind of aftermarket thing. Stock alt with short water pump is above the PS pump. By the way, year of the small block really doesn't matter with the accessories. Use what you have with the truck or get a period correct set with everything in the right place

[Nick_R_23]

Your lowest picture is a factory correct late 80’s accessory drive. Use that one.

[44th Miss Inf]

The engine in the top picture looks to be out of a C50 or C60 series truck due to the brackets and the short style water pump with the thermostat bypass port on top of the pump.

You can use the waterpump and accessories from the engine in the lower picture.

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by 44th Miss Inf

The engine in the top picture looks to be out of a C50 or C60 series truck due to the brackets and the short style water pump with the thermostat bypass port on top of the pump.

You can use the waterpump and accessories from the engine in the lower picture.

Would it be a problem if alternator is touching fender well....if not I'll leave it......I don't have my old water pump from old setup......what about the headers touching??

[Palf70Step]

If you are going to run an O2 sensor, you may need to reposition where the sensor goes. If your not, plug the hole and just notch the frame rail a hair to clear.

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

If you are going to run an O2 sensor, you may need to reposition where the sensor goes. If your not, plug the hole and just notch the frame rail a hair to clear.

Nope, I'm emission exempt....so I can notch it. And it's already been plugged...
What you recommend of my alternate space situation?? I have to dig for my old set up brackett....hope i can find but if not???

[44th Miss Inf]

Originally Posted by ellisjay2

Would it be a problem if alternator is touching fender well....if not I'll leave it......I don't have my old water pump from old setup......what about the headers touching??

You can, but I don’t recommend it. It will squeak, and rattle while driving. And while I usually don’t advise stuff that spends other peoples money, I would go buy the correct pump and use your old brackets, as you seem to have them as per your first post.
What are the headers originally for, if they are touching the frame?

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by 44th Miss Inf

You can, but I don’t recommend it. It will squeak, and rattle while driving. And while I usually don’t advise stuff that spends other peoples money, I would go buy the correct pump and use your old brackets, as you seem to have them as per your first post.
What are the headers originally for, if they are touching the frame?

From me being slow to notice....the longer bracket holding alternator is hitting fender causing motor mounts not to line up so could I get taller mounts or I'm guessing it's be simpler to go back with old mount setup. From how it's looking I'm gonna have to change whole front assembly which I didn't want...but it looks as if old pump, pulley bracket set up is only way. Hope I can find it all, if not just look for 85 sierra bracket set up at part store ??






As far as headers I'm just gonna go back with stock, it fits right back in fine.

[Palf70Step]

Use the mounts that came with the truck, not engine ones. That may solve most of your issues.

[MJN]

If you can't find your alternator brackets I have some I'm trying to get rid of
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=815660

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Use the mounts that came with the truck, not engine ones. That may solve most of your issues.

After lifting and dropping enigne back and forth, I swapped to my old cups on the new block and they fell on fine, the others had a difference in height just enough to not seat. So some things aren't all interchangeable as said , I'm learning.....

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Use the mounts that came with the truck, not engine ones. That may solve most of your issues.

Thanx for responding quickly it helps alot...
Yeah just went back with my old mount cups, my original mount blocks were still on the frame.....

[ellisjay2]

Concerned about torque converter, or is it okay??? I made sure it was seated before bolting block up, but when I started buttoning it up to flywheel, it slide about 3 centimeters flush to flywheel, just enough of threads shown in pic below, maybe 2 centimeters, just double checking if this is normal and I'm over alert.....checked clearance between converter and pump and it's still hand tight....so should it be okay??

[MJN]

The converter should be up tight against the flexplate not spaced away like it is in the pictures. Do you have the correct length bolts from flexplate to converter? Post some numbers off each engine if you can, the stamped numbers in front of the RH head and the block casting. That will help narrow down some of the major differences between the two.

[Pontiac1976]

There two or three thing it could be, is the flex plate on the right way. The TQ converter is too wide trans, ATT: if the TQ converter is not all the way in the trans input shaft and you try to start your motor you will blow up the transmission oil pump $50. part but you have then rebuild the trans now to fix. The TQ converter should slide like three clicks in and be pretty firm snug to back. I did about 5 trans and motor be for I found out about this the fresh trans rebuild I got had to be rebuilt it was not all the way in this was 33 years ago.

[Pontiac1976]

Make sure it is the right year break down for the Flex plate the trans, your are using. Oh there is a 152 tooth and a 168 tooth 81-90 and the the big starter 70-82 If I recall the years correct.

[84 400]

Did the crank have a pilot bushing or bearing installed in it?

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by MJN

The converter should be up tight against the flexplate not spaced away like it is in the pictures. Do you have the correct length bolts from flexplate to converter? Post some numbers off each engine if you can, the stamped numbers in front of the RH head and the block casting. That will help narrow down some of the major differences between the two.

The number on the block in is 3970010
My old one was 14093638

The converter is flush tight once I run all the bolts in, I just noticed and got concerned when the bolts pulled converter towards flywheel as it snugged up, the space in the picture is when I leave bolts unscrewed to show how much it moves, once I run them in converter as I said earlier moves the shown thread distance and you dont see anymore threads, its flush. This is the stock 350 tranny thats been there.

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by Pontiac1976

There two or three thing it could be, is the flex plate on the right way. The TQ converter is too wide trans, ATT: if the TQ converter is not all the way in the trans input shaft and you try to start your motor you will blow up the transmission oil pump $50. part but you have then rebuild the trans now to fix. The TQ converter should slide like three clicks in and be pretty firm snug to back. I did about 5 trans and motor be for I found out about this the fresh trans rebuild I got had to be rebuilt it was not all the way in this was 33 years ago.

Flywheel was never removed from block, its my stock 350 trans that came with truck, 85 sierra. I went from 80s block (14093638) to 70s block...(3970010).

[Palf70Step]

I would examine the flex plate/flywheel from your original engine and see if it looks any different from the one on the 80 block. There is always a small bit of pull on the convertor when you tighten them to fly wheel. My convertors always moves a tad when I tighten them to flex plate. I think you may be OK, but I never looked that hard on mine on how much spacing it had before I tightened them.

[Pontiac1976]

AS said

I would examine the flex plate/flywheel from your original engine and see if it looks any different from the one on the 80 block. There is always a small bit of pull on the convertor when you tighten them to fly wheel. My convertors always moves a tad when I tighten them to flex plate. I think you may be OK, but I never looked that hard on mine on how much spacing it had before I tightened them.

There might be smaller pad where the bolts go throw or the center section might be spaced (have higher rig or on the wrong side) As said there is a small bit of pull on the convertor when you tighten them to fly wheel. Since you said you did not tighten the bolts you maybe ok.

[ellisjay2]

Going back with my old accessory brackets, but lost most of my bolts, and trying to find the easiest way to get the correct sizes, or find a kit that has them together...



power steering pump bracket
pump to bracket
alternator bracket
alternator to bracket
water pump mounting bolts...i guess new comes with all you need anyway.


A pic of my 80s block set up thats going on the 70's block now,( cast number 3970010)