55.2-59 Advice...steering column linkage, shifting linkage, shocks and brake switch

[Missyblue]

Forgive me the long post. Processing too many things haha
1. Shifting linkage
We just got the lokar shifting linkage mocked up to my 4l80e. See photo. All the gears seem to shift fine. Any reason to wait to loctite the threads and final set till after we get moving? Or good to go?

2. Column u joint......same question if seems to move fine seal it up or wait?

I know a big part of this build has been putting things.together multiple times haha but once I put radiator and fenders soon to start wiring these parts will be soooooo hard to get to to final set haha

3. Using a universal brake pedal mounted under the dash and to the firewall.as pictured.....what's everyone using for a brake switch? I am using a tbi 350 with computer from a 90s van.

4. Rear shocks.....we have a square tube to mount them to but realised with the original mount on the axle we only have maybe 12 inches from lower to where we could put upper mount if straight up and down. Or possibly 16 inches if we cut axle kount and weld for and angle......curious what everyone does for aftermarket shock placement? Mine didnt come with shocks or upper mounts I could find so curious

And so excited we finally have brakes!! After much leaking and problem solving haha

Thank you!!

[mr48chev]

I'd just dig in my scrap bin for a piece of metal Maybe some 1/8 x 1 angle that I could fab up a bracket that dropped down from the bolt hole between the pedal pin and the dash and had a tab on on it that you could mount a 63/87 Chevy truck brake light switch in.

I don't like the Ford inline brake light switches at all because they fail all too often.

It would probably take 30 minutes or less to cut, drill, trial fit and clean up and paint a little bracket that would hold the brake light switch.

[MiraclePieCo]

mr48chev, that Chevy brake light switch is the one I use on all my hotrod builds as well. I've even successfully used them under the vehicle where they're exposed to dirt and water. They are cheap, reliable and easy to install. I also agree with your assessment of the Ford-type hydraulic switches - they have too much lag time before brake light activation.

Missyblue: I'd final-tighten those components now while you're thinking of it. Too many times I've waited and ultimately forgot to tighten something only to have it come apart later. And regarding your shocks: Speedway Motors sells shocks that have a suggested 12-inch mounting length without doing a bunch of re-fab to your frame or axle.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...nted,2183.html

.

[_Ogre]

i agree with mr48chev on the brake switch and applaud his artwork
don't loctite the shift linkage or anything you may need to adjust, ever. it looks like you have lock nuts on the linkage. especially if your column is still held in place with wood shims.
properly designed, the steering u-joints and shaft can't fall out with all the set screws removed. that said lockem down tight with lock nuts, assuming the wood shims are gone. not that i see any u-joints in your pics.
shocks: download the monroe shock absorber catalog and look at what they offer for lengths and ends. you may end up moving your x-member forward a bit. figure the length of sitting on the bumpstops, to airborn, for the max/min length. you don't want shocks bottoming out before your bump stops, things will break

[dsraven]

brake light switch-if you still ave the donor van use the one from that, comes with the wiring plug too. fab a bracket like suggested above. don't make the mount too close to the pivot or the pedal arm wont move enough to activate the switch unless you're really standing on the brakes.
rear shocks-like said, check the compressed and extended length you need and leave some room for safety then check the catalogue for something that fits the bill. after that check the useage so you're not picking a shock that will not be in captivity anywhere. try to use something common. the original shocks were on an angle towards the middle but remember that was when the truck was taller. you don't really want the bushings in the shock ends to wear out prematurely from excessive movement. maybe check the angle on a newer vehicle and go from there. if you plan to use a stabilizer bar and also want rear exit exhaust sometime remember to leave room for those items. maybe it is the angle of the pics but it looks like the rear axle may contact the shock cross member at full suspension compression. just something to check while you get your shock dimensions. also wanted to mention that the cross member could be higher on the frame if you have room under the box floor and that may yield a better selection of shocks for the weight and duty of the truck.
brake line over axle-by the pics, you would do well to put a brake line retainer clip in the middle of that line over the differential hump. vibration will otherwise cause e the line to fatigue and crack near one of the line nuts.
shifter-personally i would install a large flat washer on each side of the heim joint so if a failure occurs the joint doesn't fall off, just gets loose. I wouldn't personally loctite the fastener, just use a steel self locking nut
ujoint-your column is fairly long below the floor of the truck so I would recommend a good support on the column at the floor and below the dash so it is good and solid and hung from 2 places, then do the mock up of the column shaft to the rack and pinion. try to keep the u joint angles shallow and still have the column at a decent useable angle inside the cab for comfort. just wondering what you have for a shifter mechanism on the column at the top? it will need to have some detents to keep it in gear/park and should have a neutral safety switch of some kind. when the driveline and/or body moves the solid shift mechanism may want to kick the trans into another gear since the trans will move in relation to the cab. that will change the needed length of the shifter rod. if you end up with problems you can always fab up a cable shifter connected to the column where the shift rod is now. one thing you could try first, if you have that problem, would be like chevy did with their automatic vehicles before they started using cables. use a shaft from the trans shift lever over to the frame at right angles to the frame and the shift rod from the column connects to that shaft near the frame end, less movement. like the pic in this link. the donor van may have these parts.
https://www.elcaminocentral.com/thre...estion.241600/

[dsraven]

I have seen an L shaped bracket attached to the floor and a properly sized muffler clamp used at the floor where the column goes through. this supports the column but the clamp tends to distort the column tubing if tightened too much. you could use a band clamp though. it is easily removed should you need to take stuff apart and could be used for a mock up until you know if you have things right. just a thought.

[dsraven]

I noticed the brake lines are coiled below the master cylinder. if these are done so the line always goes down hill from the master, with no part that is allowed to be higher than a section down stream, it allows for easier system bleeding and if a bubble is in the system for whatever reason it can more easily find it's way to the top and out into the reservoir. its hard to tell from the pic if this is the case. it would only take a few minutes to remedy that if not.

[Missyblue]

Thank you for the amazing replies....life happened and just getting started again sadly. I have the transmission and steering all done I think. ....they all shift through the gears and move the tires well to the right and left...man never appreciated the tiny components that make a vehicle work and also safe!! So trying to be careful and smart. Once everything is put together wont be the easiest to access and check all the time.

My gear shift indicator does seem like it doesnt point exactly st the park, drive symbol etc. So not sure if that's an installation thing or just an oddity?? And I did get an ididit clamp style floor mount to support the column at the floor

I'll recheck the rear shock support bar for clearance I havent looked at it recently. And yeah we did debate adding the shock bracket higher closer to the truck floor to gain a little extra clearance

[NeoJuice]

Two things I noticed in your pics.

1. Your prop valve looks like its mounted to the frame which is fine, but do you worry about its location & clearance once you get the inner fenders put on?

2. I would snug up the rear brake line tight on the rear diff. There is allot of slack there and could cause problems once you run your exhaust. There has to be plenty of clearance between brake/fuel lines and exhaust or moving parts if not routed or secured properly could cause an inspection fail.

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Two things I noticed in your pics.

1. Your prop valve looks like its mounted to the frame which is fine, but do you worry about its location & clearance once you get the inner fenders put on?

2. I would snug up the rear brake line tight on the rear diff. There is allot of slack there and could cause problems once you run your exhaust. There has to be plenty of clearance between brake/fuel lines and exhaust or moving parts if not routed or secured properly could cause an inspection fail.

Thank you for the comments. Yeah a mechanic friend did both jobs and not sure he thought about the inner fenders. I will have to probably cut them back like I did for the mustang ii sadly. I'm trying to see if it can be moved at all. And I'll ask him about the brake line next time he comes by

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Two things I noticed in your pics.

1. Your prop valve looks like its mounted to the frame which is fine, but do you worry about its location & clearance once you get the inner fenders put on?

2. I would snug up the rear brake line tight on the rear diff. There is allot of slack there and could cause problems once you run your exhaust. There has to be plenty of clearance between brake/fuel lines and exhaust or moving parts if not routed or secured properly could cause an inspection fail.

Thank you for the comments. Yeah a mechanic friend did both jobs and not sure he thought about the inner fenders. I will have to probably cut them back like I did for the mustang ii sadly. I'm trying to see if it can be moved at all. And I'll ask him about the brake line next time he comes by. I know my line he removed was tight to the differential.....maybe even clipped to it?

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Missyblue

Thank you for the comments. Yeah a mechanic friend did both jobs and not sure he thought about the inner fenders. I will have to probably cut them back like I did for the mustang ii sadly. I'm trying to see if it can be moved at all. And I'll ask him about the brake line next time he comes by. I know my line he removed was tight to the differential.....maybe even clipped to it?

You might be ok with the prop valve in its current location. You will need to cut out a small portion of the inner fender to clear the Mustang II which I had to do as well on both sides.

You might have enough slack in the lines that once you get the inner fender on you can move it and bolt the prop valve to the inner fender or bend it out of the way. That's the good thing about using copper nickel brake lines they bend easy.

Here are my thoughts on the rear diff brake line. It looks like in your picture that on the drivers side that the line is attached to the diff (good). I would disconnect the line on the passenger side T fitting then snug the line up around the pumpkin then you would would probably end up cutting out 6-8 inches of line and re-flaring back to the T. You could use some rubber cushioned insulated clamps in maybe 1/4 or 3/8" to secure the lines.