07-26-2004, 07:19 PM | #1 |
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Problem
I have a problem with the headers I installed. On the passengers side the flange were the collectors bolt to the exhust is in the same position as my balance wieght on my front drive shaft. I grinded as much as I could off the flange and it is much better but after driving it for two days in diffrent 4x4 positions it still sometimes hits the weight. So my options are as follows.
1. Grind the weight off of the front drive shaft and see what happens. 2. The exhuast shop said they could cut the flange off the headers and weld it right to the exhuast? Is that possible is it expensive? That would get me a good 1/4 inch of clearence. Most likly enuf. 3. I could just leave it and hope it does not tear anything up. What is the best of these? Love the headers can not go back to manifolds and do not really want to try different headers as I will loose the money I have in this set of headers. I only drive in 4x4 in the snow no off road or anything maybe 2 weeks total a year. Thanks for all coments and suggestions.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
07-27-2004, 07:25 AM | #2 |
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Can no one help me?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
07-27-2004, 11:22 AM | #3 |
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what kinda headers did you buy?
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07-27-2004, 11:27 AM | #4 |
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Dynomax cermaic coated
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
07-27-2004, 11:32 AM | #5 | |
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Going to have to go with block huggers or find a set of shorties like the JBA's ($$$$) that have the flang up like the factory manifolds.
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Grim-Reaper 70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project |
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07-27-2004, 12:37 PM | #6 |
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Only hit once in 2 days of driving standing still looks like I have about 1/4 clearence.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
07-27-2004, 12:38 PM | #7 |
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What if the weight was ground off what would it mess up if the drive shaft were unbalanced?
it only needs about another 1/4 inch of clearence and I think it will be good. Do you think any of the above options is reasonable? I can not afford to scrap these and really dont want shortie headers.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO Last edited by 76bonanza; 07-27-2004 at 12:49 PM. |
07-27-2004, 01:24 PM | #8 | |
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Just because your not havining problems on the street doesn't mean your not going to have problems off road. Drive the passengerside wheel up on a ramp and see the clearence looks like.
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Grim-Reaper 70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project |
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07-27-2004, 01:49 PM | #9 |
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Yes I am only parttime and I dont offroad with it. I only use the 4x4 for snow travel in the winter. If the wieght was gone what will it do? wear out the u joint or the diff.? I only drive with it in 4x4 but not locking the hubs just to slush up the oil in transfer case about twice a month other than that only when it snows like 2 weeks totall on bad winters. I will try the ramp thing also. I just really dont want to replace these headers.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
07-27-2004, 06:07 PM | #10 |
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Well It passed the ramp test ok I think taking the weight off might be the easiest thing to ensure it will not hit.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
07-29-2004, 12:04 PM | #11 | |
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07-29-2004, 12:31 PM | #12 |
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Could you not have the shaft rebalanced and put the weight in a different place so it wouldn't hit?
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07-29-2004, 12:42 PM | #13 |
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I guess I could do that. What is a J joint? Is it the same as a u joint only for the front end?
Thanks for both of you guys help.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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