55.2-59 Front kick panel speakers and AC Bulkhead

[hotrod1]

I was looking at Kyle Bush's 56 build on Detroit Speed's site. It looked like they cut away part of the outer cowl panel to mount the front speakers. Pages 11 and 12. https://www.detroitspeed.com/blog/po...6_chevy_truck/

Here is what an outer cowl panel looks like. (https://www.holley.com/products/rest.../parts/OCP59RH)

I am not sure if they replaced any of the panel. What have you guys done to mount the speakers up there and how about the AC bulkhead or pass-through?

Ideas? Thanks

[Richard]

From the pics it just looks like speaker was flush mounted to kick panel. Hard to tell what was actually done. If a bucket for speaker was formed or the back part of was allowed to breathe into the interior. In either case it will not sound very good, mid and low frequency's will be cancelled out or subdued. Not good to have speaker exposed to that area in these older trucks as water usually flows through that area.

[Hcb3200]

Mine in in the kick panel but it was not done correctly.
Because water runs all down from all kinds of places thru those areas it sometimes comes in the truck around the speakers.
Knowing this I would have gone back in time and had orginal owner put the speakers some where else
I suggest facing down from under dash. or under seat.
We have speakers as well behind the seat and that small of a cab I don't think you will have issues in other locations.
They do make some sealed panels out there for speakers in the kick panels but you are limited ot speaker size. If you are going to go in the kicks use those.

[_Ogre]

they didn't cut out the outer cowl, just the inner panel that runs into the kick vents, hinge pockets and drains out the bottom. you definitely need to shave the cowl vent before modifying that area or you end up with water issues like hcb3200 has.

imo the cowl vent is the main reason our trucks rust out like they do. the cowl vent allows leaves and pine needles in, they get washed down on kick vent covers and hinge pockets and finally plug up the drains in the bottom. i used a plasm torch to cut out the kick vents and ended up with a fire in the area.

i'll post the same areas of detroit speed and mine, only cuz mine is better lit and has foil barrier inside the cowl vent area

[_Ogre]

having a 4 inch kick speakers flush mounted and pointing at each other won't give good sound from all that i've read. compare the next 2 pics from detroit speed and mine, his speaker is actually mounted below 5.25 inch. note that my mid range and tweeters are angled up at the passengers, as are the door mids and tweets. lack of tweeters and aiming is a major fail in my book, making up with 2 big a$$ woofers is another.

i did a decent writeup of building my kicks in my build thread. it wouldn't hurt to take a gander at it. 36k miles on truk since the build, it's holding up rather well

[hotrod1]

Ogre - U always have elegant solutions to the esthetics - where did you put the AC/heater line pierces? Did you put them in the cowl area like Detroit Speed did in this build?

[_Ogre]

i used the VA compacII unit, not the surefit evaporator. i wanted the electronic controls, not cables. i also wanted it easy to service with the shaved glovebox, the evaporator needed to be bolted in to fixed brackets and removable without breaking ac lines.

first pic shows the drain line routing through the cowl vent area, you can also see the four hvac lines behind the drain. this location allowed for a simple notch in the kick for the line.

2nd pic shows where 4 hvac lines come thru the firewall, the 5th grey line is front electrical: lights, ac wiring, horns, etc...

[_Ogre]

i had the heater hoses hooked up backwards for truk's maiden voyage, aka 5000 miles of 2011 hot rod power tour. ac worked fine stopped, but get up to speed and coolant pushed by the control valve and we had instant heat. not good when most of the hrpt was 100° plus. i was glad that i had done it this way when i had to drop the unit to rotate the valve. i bypassed the heater, but that backfired on us when it dropped to the 40s in michigan and neither one of us had long pants or shirt.

3 brackets are welded to the dash or firewall. right side bracket is welded to the hood hinge bar. 2 bolts, very sturdy.

left front bracket is welded under the dash, marked by red arrow
no good pic of the left rear bracket

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i used the VA compacII unit, not the surefit evaporator. i wanted the electronic controls, not cables. i also wanted it easy to service with the shaved glovebox, the evaporator needed to be bolted in to fixed brackets and removable without breaking ac lines.

first pic shows the drain line routing through the cowl vent area, you can also see the four hvac lines behind the drain. this location allowed for a simple notch in the kick for the line.

2nd pic shows where 4 hvac lines come thru the firewall, the 5th grey line is front electrical: lights, ac wiring, horns, etc...

Thanks for the pics and description. You motivated me to go back and look at your great build - all 21 pages. I needed a refresher.

By the way (off topic), how do u like that Lokar gas pedal? I am concerned because I have big feet and the pedal is small. You know what they say - "big feet - big shoes."

[_Ogre]

Thanks! I like the looks, but that pedal needed modification for wot. I had to make a ¼" spacer to account for carpet. As is, it's standing up to vertical. Everything needs to be 50% bigger. Fwiw I wear size 14wwww

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

Thanks! I like the looks, but that pedal needed modification for wot. I had to make a ¼" spacer to account for carpet. As is, it's standing up to vertical. Everything needs to be 50% bigger. Fwiw I wear size 14wwww

Looks like I will be making a pedal then - I have one like you but it does look small. What do u think the ideal size would be?