how to put in brake lines

[K10-Kansas]

I replaced my master cylinder brake lines. That was a little difficult, not too bad.

How in the world does anyone replace their left and right or even the front to read brake lines? It looks like you'd have to disassemble part of the frame or pull the engine to get them in or out.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by K10-Kansas

I replaced my master cylinder brake lines. That was a little difficult, not too bad.

How in the world does anyone replace their left and right or even the front to read brake lines? It looks like you'd have to disassemble part of the frame or pull the engine to get them in or out.

I remember you saying you stopped at LMC for brake lines. The prebent kits they sell are great because the fewer the joints the better but that can complicate installation. They are steel but can be bent GENTLY to get them where they need to go and returned to proper shape once they are home. I bend and flare all my own lines and this is one of the many reasons why.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

I remember you saying you stopped at LMC for brake lines. The prebent kits they sell are great because the fewer the joints the better but that can complicate installation. They are steel but can be bent GENTLY to get them where they need to go and returned to proper shape once they are home. I bend and flare all my own lines and this is one of the many reasons why.

Okay thanks. I stopped at the auto parts store and got a line bender. I'll try to bend, slide in, unbend, weave, and shape as I go and see how it goes. Thanks

[Shugalou]

I redid all my lines and I went to napa and got the brake line that you can bend by hand. They come in a coil. I did all mine with only the flaring tool. Probably wont win a show but they work. Can I suggest if you are going through the trouble of doing the lines add in some stainless flex lines while you're in there.

Good luck with it...I got hung up on several times but this forum helped me to pull it off.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by Shugalou

I redid all my lines and I went to napa and got the brake line that you can bend by hand. They come in a coil. I did all mine with only the flaring tool. Probably wont win a show but they work. Can I suggest if you are going through the trouble of doing the lines add in some stainless flex lines while you're in there.

Good luck with it...I got hung up on several times but this forum helped me to pull it off.

I feel that. This forum has made my restore possible. Generous people here have repeatedly given me the guidance that solved mysteries when I've been baffled by issues on my truck and couldn't find the answers anywhere else.

Thanks, it's great to know those types of lines exist in case I get stuck.

[Wobpb377]

There’s also complete kits on eBay or summit. The correct length but just need to be bent.

[Killer Bee]

first off, I highly recommend oem steel everywhere possible for several obvious reasons. If you can work them in with a little gentle massaging, I recommend finishing the project with them

I previously wasn't a huge fan of nicopp but several of my mechanics at work have used it for line replacements where oem was unavailable and steel line would be very difficult and time consuming. in all cases it worked well with zero failures

couple summers ago I had a brake line in one of my longhorns spring a leak just before a show. I would have needed three sticks of available steel tubing to span the frame so I opted to give the nicopp a try. Made it full length in one shot, no extra unions. It turned out well and was extremely easy to work with and routed safely through factory locations.





get yourself a decent flaring tool kit, tubing cutter, deburing tool, and a handful of flare nuts and you're in business

no tubing benders necessary, bends easily by hand. only drawback is getting it to lie straight as it comes off a roll.

now I'm not advocating for nicopp aftermarket over factory steel but I wouldn't be afraid to use it if needed

good luck!

[LS short box]

I've bought pre bent lines for a couple of projects. When the supplier ships the brake lines they bend them to fit a box of some kind. You have to carefully un-bend.
About the nicopp line. I think its great. Easy to bend and route. Flares like butter. I buy it at Oreillys and they have many different lengths. So as I'm running the lines I buy lengths that are longer than I need. Cut to length and then only need to flare one end.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I've bought pre bent lines for a couple of projects. When the supplier ships the brake lines they bend them to fit a box of some kind. You have to carefully un-bend.
About the nicopp line. I think its great. Easy to bend and route. Flares like butter. I buy it at Oreillys and they have many different lengths. So as I'm running the lines I buy lengths that are longer than I need. Cut to length and then only need to flare one end.

Thanks, good to know. If the steel lines i bought are too much trouble, I'll give the flexibility ones a shot.

[Bloodhound]

I went with all stainless on mine, and had a hell of a time eliminating leaks at the fittings. I actually ditched it and went with Nicop, and man is that stuff easy to work with. I'm a believer now.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

first off, I highly recommend oem steel everywhere possible for several obvious reasons. If you can work them in with a little gentle massaging, I recommend finishing the project with them

I previously wasn't a huge fan of nicopp but several of my mechanics at work have used it for line replacements where oem was unavailable and steel line would be very difficult and time consuming. in all cases it worked well with zero failures

couple summers ago I had a brake line in one of my longhorns spring a leak just before a show. I would have needed three sticks of available steel tubing to span the frame so I opted to give the nicopp a try. Made it full length in one shot, no extra unions. It turned out well and was extremely easy to work with and routed safely through factory locations.





get yourself a decent flaring tool kit, tubing cutter, deburing tool, and a handful of flare nuts and you're in business

no tubing benders necessary, bends easily by hand. only drawback is getting it to lie straight as it comes off a roll.

now I'm not advocating for nicopp aftermarket over factory steel but I wouldn't be afraid to use it if needed

good luck!

The drawback you mentioned about getting straight runs off a roll is easily defeated unless you are weaving it through the frame right off the roll. An old timer showed me to take a piece any length, clamp one end in a bench vise and the other free end with an old vice grip. Hammer the vise grip holding the free end to stretch the length of tubing. With each blow you'll see the waves coming out. Once it's straight enough for your needs unclamp it and cut the ends off with a tubing cutter as you would with any job you plan to flare. Sounds jenky but it works and I've used it on pieces that I've bent and messed up and saved.

[72c20customcamper]

I bought the Eastwood bench flairing tool . I’m going to either make or buy on of these to make the straightening easier

[hatzie]

NiCopp is more corrosion resistant than the old steel brake line and it's easier to form.

Eastwood used to sell these for around $35 They're asking $80 now.
I see them on Amazon and eBay for around $38.


I have the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. The big kit costs just over $230 so it's not for everyone but it works very very well. It's not just 45° brake line. It forms other steel, stainless, & NiCopp to fit the Jiffy Tite transmission & oil cooler sockets and forms GM fuel line ends as well as the 37° Brit brake line taper.


Home Depot carries a Husky or Klein 89030 tube bender for around $35-40.


I have an old set of tube bending pliers I picked up from a flea market back in the late 1970's. They look something like this. They're good for making tweaks to bends and tighter radius bends.

[LS short box]

Years ago I finally broke down and bought the Eastwood turret style flaring tool. Works great. Never a leak.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Years ago I finally broke down and bought the Eastwood turret style flaring tool. Works great. Never a leak.

Those work great. I've used one at a buddies shop. They have an available 37° turret. They don't do the GM fuel lines and Jiffy Tite oil cooler lines so it's a trade off.