Bazooka's 63 build thread.

[816allen]

I love this truck and the color

[erock805]

Killer work man! rolled through the hole show! Classy!

[63 FLEETSIDE]

Insanely beautifull, love this truck.

[creep]

Originally Posted by Bazooka

Cheap ebay specials. Fit like a glove.. They are not intended for use on our trucks but they fit fine

I was looking for a cheaper alternative to the hookers at $400. I ended up ordering these ceramic coated headers. I found them for $180 shipped. Some of the guys on here are using these on bagged trucks and they have even more clearance on a truck with a SD crossmember or PB dropmember..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=346197

Cool, thanks. They look exactly like the "Clipsters" I was looking at.

[ruffrida2005]

Creep if your looking for headers talk to Alan, He has that set that he just bought but wont fit on his truck.

[Bazooka]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Creep if your looking for headers talk to Alan, He has that set that he just bought but wont fit on his truck.

Alot of people with our trucks are running this header with no problem. Allen said he thinks he is having a fitment issue due to having CPP engine perches. He said he heard of others running the CPP perches that were having the problem as well. Should be no problem at all with stock engine
perches. Plus Allen isnt using these headers he bought the hookers.

Allens Thread page 92
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...248460&page=92

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks Guys for the comments. Thanks Mac for the heads up. I'll go read those links tonight I hope. Just a quick post here to let ya'll know about the headers. I'm going crazy. I believe a lot of my problems, if not all are the CPP perches. I need the front tube to go up and back. I got my Hookers today and test fitted the left side. I couldn't even get a bolt started. I'm going to write CPPJeff and see if they recommend a certain header. Also do some searching.

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

If you only knew how much I have already cut off the bottom flange of the left rail. I found this LINK where someone else had similiar issues with headers while using the CPP perch.

[ruffrida2005]

your right Bazo, Creep is running the SD memeber like us so wont have a problem if he ever puts a small block in it.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Bazooka

Alot of people with our trucks are running this header with no problem. Allen said he thinks he is having a fitment issue due to having CPP engine perches. He said he heard of others running the CPP perches that were having the problem as well. Should be no problem at all with stock engine
perches. Plus Allen isnt using these headers he bought the hookers.

Allens Thread page 92
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...248460&page=92

CPPJeff refered me to three headers that will work with the CPP perches. I'm going to try Hedmans 69646.

[ruffrida2005]

Hey man can you get some pics of your Trans mount? when I put mine in I put it all the way to the lower part of the frame, and is at 6* I need to raise it up 2" to get 3*. I just need to see some other ones.

[Bazooka]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Hey man can you get some pics of your Trans mount? when I put mine in I put it all the way to the lower part of the frame, and is at 6* I need to raise it up 2" to get 3*. I just need to see some other ones.

it will be awhile I let a buddy borrow my battery. The truck is slammed out in the garage with no way to lift it up right now. Sorry man

[ruffrida2005]

alright man thanks, I PMed Jason to0 to get some insite on this.

[creep]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Hey man can you get some pics of your Trans mount? when I put mine in I put it all the way to the lower part of the frame, and is at 6* I need to raise it up 2" to get 3*. I just need to see some other ones.

We got a motor and tranny mocked up in mine and the motor tilts back about 5*. We checked it against a stock 67 and it was about the same. You might be able to shim the tranny mount up if you need to. Moving the crossmember up may get in the way of the exhaust.

[PBFAB.COM]

Ruffrida-

It may not be possible to get the "perfect world" drive-line angle without cutting into the floor/firewall for clearance. Normal Dropmember scenario you will be in the 6 degree range as you have mentioned. We recommend using a CV joint on the front half of the drive-shaft. This will allow you to fudge the angle and not suffer the vibration issues. Hope this helps.

[Bazooka]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Ruffrida-

It may not be possible to get the "perfect world" drive-line angle without cutting into the floor/firewall for clearance. Normal Dropmember scenario you will be in the 6 degree range as you have mentioned. We recommend using a CV joint on the front half of the drive-shaft. This will allow you to fudge the angle and not suffer the vibration issues. Hope this helps.

Can you give us some info on the CV joint needed to do this? Maybe a part number or a application? I have tried google and stuff without much luck..

I still need to take mine in and have one made.

[ruffrida2005]

Thanks Nate. I made a 2" shim out of 4 1/2" plates welded together and I'm right at 3*. Only thing I would hate to see what my trans hump would look like. I'm running a low hump and I know I'm going to have to mod it. Any insite on this Nate and also the PN for the CV Joint

[ruffrida2005]

Sorry Bazo for whoreing your thread with ?'s for nate, but it will help the 3 of us. What do you run the pinion angle on the back with the front being 6-5* if you use the CV Joint. Do you run into any problems with the carb having that angle?

[Bazooka]

no worries man.. those are some good questions.

[PBFAB.COM]

I will dig up some part numbers on the CV and post them up. If you guys have any specific questions, go ahead and e-mail me. I know you aren't running my Dropmember, but I don't mind helping you guys out.

With the CV, you can run your rear pinion angle at 2-3 degrees without problems.

[creep]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Ruffrida-

It may not be possible to get the "perfect world" drive-line angle without cutting into the floor/firewall for clearance. Normal Dropmember scenario you will be in the 6 degree range as you have mentioned. We recommend using a CV joint on the front half of the drive-shaft. This will allow you to fudge the angle and not suffer the vibration issues. Hope this helps.

Does that apply to both 1 & 2 piece driveshafts?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by creep

Does that apply to both 1 & 2 piece driveshafts?

That comment applies to the one-piece shaft. The two-piece shaft is a little different as you have three joints and two operating angles to deal with.

Side Note:
On the 60-66 trucks after you convert the floor to the "large hump" you have plenty of room for trans clearance. If you have the small hump floor you can do the conversion, or build your own hump. The conversion is much cleaner and will give the truck the factory look.

[ruffrida2005]

Thanks Nate for all the info. I just got a PM from Jason on the other forum and he said they set their front angle at 3* and was really tight on the exhaust. not sure what size he ran but I'm waiting to find out. I'm talking to lilred66 to get a large hump if he's got one.

And again Nate thanks for all your insite. You have been very helpful to many people. Now can I have a job?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Thanks Nate for all the info. I just got a PM from Jason on the other forum and he said they set their front angle at 3* and was really tight on the exhaust. not sure what size he ran but I'm waiting to find out. I'm talking to lilred66 to get a large hump if he's got one.

And again Nate thanks for all your insite. You have been very helpful to many people. Now can I have a job?

I do know with ALL the installs we have done, we have never been able to run a 3 degree angle and have proper clearances for exhaust/cab floor... without some cutting at the back of the cab. If you set it up at 6 degrees and convert to the large hump, you will be fine (a CV joint will be needed on the drive-shaft).

[lolife99]

Hey Nate,... I see all these angle measurements, being thrown around.
I assume you me a with the frame setting level?

If my chassis is setting on the ground with 20's and 22's obviously the frame is going to have some rake.
And air bags at different heights will also effect the rake.
So to get everyone on the same page,... the frame needs to be level on jack stands brefore you try to achieve the 6* set-up.
I'm just trying to clarify for myself.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Hey Nate,... I see all these angle measurements, being thrown around.
I assume you me a with the frame setting level?

If my chassis is setting on the ground with 20's and 22's obviously the frame is going to have some rake.
And air bags at different heights will also effect the rake.
So to get everyone on the same page,... the frame needs to be level on jack stands brefore you try to achieve the 6* set-up.
I'm just trying to clarify for myself.

You're correct Keith.... it is best, and easiest to set-up the angles when the truck is at it's ride height (or simulated ride height on jack-stands). Some guys like a rake, some guys like it even.

[Bazooka]

Painted gauge panel white to match interior and installed the chrome Autometer traditional gauges. This is just a test fit. Going to repaint all the dash pieces and door panel inserts so they are all the same shade.. Crappy cell phone pics as usual.