The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build

[Jonboy]

You are definitely hard core, Kevin. The truck is looking good. I have the opposite of your OCD sometimes, and I just put stuff together, with the hope of coming back to fix it.

[83GMCK2500]

Great thinking on those hubs. I know the "gasket" that GM uses is a thin steel shim that rarely seals in my experience, even with a little ultra black. Smoothing them off like that should really help with sealing.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Great thinking on those hubs. I know the "gasket" that GM uses is a thin steel shim that rarely seals in my experience, even with a little ultra black. Smoothing them off like that should really help with sealing.

Devin,

First, I wanted to say I spun the gear carrier and counted 3 pins so I guess I have a Gov-Loc. I've heard a lot of unflattering stuff about them, but never really paid attention very closely to the details.

As far as the gaskets, I got these from Rockauto. They were like 2 bucks each. I figure I'll smear them with a real thin layer of number 2 Permatex. I've always done it that way and haven't ever had a leaker. Lets hope it works this time.



I'm kind of geeking out on this stuff I know. It seems the number of participants on this thread has dwindled. I guess the details are a bit tedious and boring. When I'm done I should have a clean black rearend, black hubs and drums and all new shiny plated hardware to make the details pop.

[darkhorse970]

We are still here, just waiting on the money shot! Very clean work and attention to detail.

[ryanroo]

people say a lot of bad stuff about the G80. i dont think you will ever find cause to complain. they work pretty darn good in a stock truck with a driver that doesn't beat on the truck like a high school idiot.

they will spin just a bit and then lock in, to a fully locked differential. i've had them in in several trucks with the 14bff. nary an issue. in my big, beat it like you stole it offroad jeep, i went with a detroit to avoid any issues that may or may not have arose from the lock in while doing something abusive. and detroits are really simple without the complexity of the G80. good news is that the G80 doesnt require any special additives like a clutch type limited slip

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

people say a lot of bad stuff about the G80. i dont think you will ever find cause to complain. they work pretty darn good in a stock truck with a driver that doesn't beat on the truck like a high school idiot.

they will spin just a bit and then lock in, to a fully locked differential. i've had them in in several trucks with the 14bff. nary an issue. in my big, beat it like you stole it offroad jeep, i went with a detroit to avoid any issues that may or may not have arose from the lock in while doing something abusive. and detroits are really simple without the complexity of the G80. good news is that the G80 doesnt require any special additives like a clutch type limited slip

That's all very good to hear. I never, ever beat on my trucks. This stuff is too much work and costs too much to risk breaking it unnecessarily.

So just straight 90w type of grease with no special sauce huh ?

[Tx Firefighter]

I was just boning up on the details for this phase of the project by reading the "14 bolt bible".

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/

One thing that caught my eye....axle assembly with brake drums weighs 550 pounds.

Damn. I knew it was heavy, but that's a man killer right there.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Devin,

First, I wanted to say I spun the gear carrier and counted 3 pins so I guess I have a Gov-Loc. I've heard a lot of unflattering stuff about them, but never really paid attention very closely to the details.

As far as the gaskets, I got these from Rockauto. They were like 2 bucks each. I figure I'll smear them with a real thin layer of number 2 Permatex. I've always done it that way and haven't ever had a leaker. Lets hope it works this time.



I'm kind of geeking out on this stuff I know. It seems the number of participants on this thread has dwindled. I guess the details are a bit tedious and boring. When I'm done I should have a clean black rearend, black hubs and drums and all new shiny plated hardware to make the details pop.

By all means, geek the f--- out. This is awesome. Great, good to know felpro makes a gasket, my experience is with the blue and white GM box and it's a steel shim that sucks to seal.

Gear oil, I would use whatever Ma-General specs, I am unfamiliar with your climate, but I know in mine where there is a range of hot and cold a multi-viscosity weight gear oil is necessary.

Originally Posted by GM

LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT (SERVICE INFORMATION) #91-4-109
SUBJECT: LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL (G80) LUBRICANT - (SERVICE INFORMATION)
VEHICLES AFFECTED: ALL LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH G80 REAR AXLE ALL YEARS
Some light duty trucks equipped with locking rear axles (G80) may exhibit rear axle chatter, especially when turning a corner from a stop.
This condition of alternate engagement and disengagement of clutches in differential assembly is usually caused by contaminated axle lubricant.
To correct this condition, drain and refill the rear axle with SAE 80W-90 GL5 (P/N 10950849).

The use of any additive in locking rear axles (G80) is not recommended. Rear axle additives are designed for use in limited slip differentials which are normally installed in cars. All light duty trucks equipped with RPO G80 make use of a locking differential and the use of additives will delay the engagement of the locking mechanism and may decrease axle life.

VEHICLES/COMPONENTS INVOLVED: ------------------------- ---- Some light duty trucks equipped with locking rear axles, RPO G80.
SERVICE PARTS INFORMATION:
Part Number Description ----------- ------------------ 10950849 Lubricant, Rear Axle (1 litre)
Parts are currently available through CANSPO.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
As specified in Light Duty Truck Maintenance Schedules, locking rear axle fluid drain and refill is required owner maintenance at the first engine oil change. Failure to drain and refill the rear axle as specified may contribute to a later axle chatter condition. Refer to the appropriate Light Duty Truck Maintenance Schedule or service manual, section OB, for further details on change intervals.
General Motors bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, not a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform those technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, do not assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See a General Motors dealer servicing your brand of General Motors vehicle for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

...also...

Originally Posted by Mr. Ralph Holmquist of Eaton

"The maintenance schedule for the rear axle was developed by American Axle &
Manufacturing and GM truck based on multiple tests. The Eaton locker does
not require additional maintenance nor does it add heat to the lube. The
lube will darken due to the carbon wear on the clutch surfaces, much the
same as a disc brake pad & rotor. This does not damage axle components such
as seals or bearings. However, a new axle can produce excessive
temperatures (plus 350 degrees F) due to the ring & pinion breaking in that
will break the lube additives down. Avoid high loads, trailer towing and
high speed extended driving during the initial break in of the vehicle.
After the break in period axle temps will level at a much lower figure.
Lube changes are a good idea because the additives are replenished and
contaminates such as casting sand are eliminated. The axle is filled at the
factory with a synthetic 75w90 GL5 rating made by Texaco under part # 2276.
The GM service # is 12378261. This is the only lube we have done extensive
testing with to insure locker compatibility. The only negative to using one
of these other lubes is an increased potential for clutch chatter. This
really doesn't hurt anything and can be corrected by changing the lube. I
noticed in the latest GM owners manual the term "or equivalent" when
referring to the lube specification. Look for a GL5 rating on the bottle to
make sure the ring & pinion, seals & bearings are protected. Limited slip
additive is not needed."

I felt it relevant because, technically the G80 is made by the Eaton Axle Corp. for GM. At least, they were before the American Axle & Manufacturing company cropped up...

I notice that GM states 80W-90 and Eaton rep says 75W-90, interesting.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I was just boning up on the details for this phase of the project by reading the "14 bolt bible".

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/

One thing that caught my eye....axle assembly with brake drums weighs 550 pounds.

Damn. I knew it was heavy, but that's a man killer right there.

That is a fantastic document. I have read it many times. You mentioned you were unfamiliar with the G80, here is a decent little video of one of the smaller ones and how they work:

Inside the Eaton G80 Locker - YouTube

[Low Elco]

Still here, enjoying the details! I don't know nuthin' 'bout these big axles, kinda neat to learn!

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm about to start degreasing, cleaning, and painting the rearend.

I take ghetto to a whole different level.

Wheelchair....

[tip]

^ LOL Nice

Very few would give this truck (or any for that matter) the attention to detail that you are. That's why its an awesome thread. I get bored of build threads full of $$$ Porterbuilt, semi wheels, etc...

I'm interested in the re-zinc-ifying. What kind of shop does that kind of work (machine shop?) I'd like to call around to see who does it around here. I've thought about rigging up my own zinc setup but for $25 that saves a lot of hassle.

[aggie91]

Kevin, I really enjoy your builds. A highly detailed explanation of why you do certain things and mostly a hard working man's budget. I try to do a bunch of my builds/work the same as you, but without the benifits of having the PC equipment. It's just a spray bomb detail for me most of the time.

I like to come to yours for the education and the details!

[Tx Firefighter]

Tip,

Several years ago I just google searched "zinc plating Fort Worth Texas" and my place popped up. All they do is plating. They have silver zinc, yellow zinc, black zinc, and several more. They also do mail order work too. I was just talking to him yesterday about that. He says that part of the business is growing.

http://arrowplating.com/processes.html

The minimum charge is 25 dollars. That gets you up to 25 pounds worth done. I've never had it exceed the 25 dollar charge yet.

[aggie91]

Wow, that's a good price and the parts look great!

[flashed]

Those parts turned out great and I would never of thought of recycling a wheel chair like that ,pretty cool idea .

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by flashed

Those parts turned out great and I would never of thought of recycling a wheel chair like that ,pretty cool idea .

That's the second time that wheelchair has been repurposed. The first go around it was my welder cart. I'm not a proud man...

Update.

The rearend is cleaned and painted. Its now sitting outside in the sunshine curing the paint. I doubt it will be perfect when I finally get a real close look at it, but its pretty decent.

While I'm waiting for the paint to dry I started working on the wiring for the bed lights. It was horrible and about half of the lights worked.

Here is the wiring for the three little clearance lights in the center of the bed.



I started out by building a wiring harness that plugs into the factory truck plug and separates out to left and right sides of the bed.



Then, I started on my plan to route the wiring under the bed. The previous job was just strung over and around whatever was close by and zip tied here and there. I have about fifty feet of EMT conduit in my scrap pile so I grabbed a couple of lengths and began work. My plan is to run a conduit down each side of the bed for the wiring to be protected in. Disregard the zip ties holding the conduit up. I still need to buy some of those little clamps to screw it securely in place.



At the front (that's the gas tank in the bottom of the picture) I kicked it out along the front bed crossmember. There is a marker light in the corner there and the wiring for the overhead tailights in the headache rack runs down there too. I'll bundle It all together and run it through the conduit to the back of the truck.

[Palf70Step]

Very nice!

[Trekster]

Great work. I really like the zinc plating idea. I have been using the "remove rust with vinegar and spray with aluminum paint" trick. It works...OK. I will try and find a plating shop closer to me.

Again, great work.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Trekster

Great work. I really like the zinc plating idea. I have been using the "remove rust with vinegar and spray with aluminum paint" trick. It works...OK. I will try and find a plating shop closer to me.

Again, great work.

It'a a wonderful asset if you can find a local shop. I have a little metal bucket that I just fill up with GM specific bolts, shims, Timmerman nuts, screws, etc. When it gets full I drop them off for plating.

Its so nice to have hundreds of the little pointy body bolts with built in washers all ready to go. Heck, I've got a cup full of restored starter bolts and cups of body shim, accelerator return springs, etc.

[tip]

Durrr... didn't even think to google it. Looks like there's a bunch of places around here, thanks for the heads up.

[83GMCK2500]

Do you clean the fasteners/parts beforehand prior to taking them to Arrow? Great looking parts and fasteners, didn't even know it was possible to restore/preserve fasteners and small parts like that, now my gears are turning...why I do I think this just made things more expensive in my future?

Sorry about that gear oil/G80 word vomit earlier, didn't mean to clutter up your thread, was just sharing any knowledge I had stored away.

[Tx Firefighter]

I just degrease the parts prior. If they're just stupid rusty I will media blast them. But, 99 percent of the stuff I take them I just drop into the bucket when I remove it.

Part of their process is a full degreasing, acid bath to remove rust, then plate. I just don't want to take them greasy stuff as a courtesy. All I do is fill the bucket with Purple Power degreaser and let it sit awhile then rinse it out with a garden hose. I'm sure that's not even necessary but I like to keep my face on their list of "good customers".

[68Timber]

Your detail work is plain insane but you've also figured out the best bang for the buck methods I've seen anywhere.

[Billy81]

I am more of a reader than a poster but i have been following your build thread since the beginning. A lot of good information in this thread i never even thought of taking my bolts and miscellaneous stuff to the local plating shop.