What did you do with your truck today, Part 3

[mick53]

I still can't decide if I should try to cut the grooves in my $280 pulley myself of take to a machine shop. She's an eight ribber. So I played with doing it today on a piece of scrap. I have the specs. It's 40 degrees with a .015 radius and spaced at .140. I have a bunch of cobalt tools that I bought off ebay and found one close that I ground at 40 degrees and then fit it to the other pulleys. If I take it in they are going to want $100-$200 and take a week or two to do it. I think I can pull this off with a little more practice. I got some chatter but haven't set the speed right yet and probably should come in at 39 degrees or something instead of straight. I'm going to order a Gates belt for comparison while I make it. I'm just using a piece of tape to measure it. I hope that works. It looks like I have about 120 degrees contact on all the pulleys. Is that enough for the alternator? I was hoping by going 8 rib to avoid a tensioner. Thank you for your time.

[DransportGarage]

Personally, I would do it myself if I had the lathe. You will get much less chatter from the real part if you can use an inside chuck on the pulley.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Personally, I would do it myself if I had the lathe. You will get much less chatter from the real part if you can use an inside chuck on the pulley.

Good point. I have way too much stick out but I didn't want to cut it and waste it. Is it necessary to come in at an angle like cutting threads? I will put the 4 jaw on for the real part from the inside. I think on a 60 degree thread you come in at 29 degrees so maybe 19 degrees? Another big question is if I pull this off, should it be polished or black like the other 2 pulleys. The head and valve cover will be polished and the 6-71 and carbs are polished. I will have to call them to find out what finish is on there now.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by mick53

Good point. I have way too much stick out but I didn't want to cut it and waste it. Is it necessary to come in at an angle like cutting threads? I will put the 4 jaw on for the real part from the inside. I think on a 60 degree thread you come in at 29 degrees so maybe 19 degrees? Another big question is if I pull this off, should it be polished or black like the other 2 pulleys. The head and valve cover will be polished and the 6-71 and carbs are polished. I will have to call them to find out what finish is on there now.

I think I would come straight in, but I'm not an expert here. You're not really cutting a thread. It's a necking cut, so I'd plunge in straight and pull out straight.

With all the bling you've got going on, it has to shine! I'd call too, to be sure what the part finish is, but I'm 90% sure it's powder coated. Maybe someone here could chime in on the best way to remove powder coat, or YouTube it.

I'm sure you know this, but don't over-clamp the part and distort it. Be sure also that the pulley will be beefy enough after the machining.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

I think I would come straight in, but I'm not an expert here. You're not really cutting a thread. It's a necking cut, so I'd plunge in straight and pull out straight.

With all the bling you've got going on, it has to shine! I'd call too, to be sure what the part finish is, but I'm 90% sure it's powder coated. Maybe someone here could chime in on the best way to remove powder coat, or YouTube it.

I'm sure you know this, but don't over-clamp the part and distort it. Be sure also that the pulley will be beefy enough after the machining.

First of all thank you. Secondly don't be sure I know anything. I had originally bought a 6.375" 8 rib pulley that I haven't returned yet that was just a little too big to fit. I then bought this one that is 5.90". I believe it's for a reverse rotation Ford. The uncut ring is the same thickness (.250") as the ring on the cut one. I also ask them about it. They said "go for it" It's ID Designs in SoCal and they make their own stuff. Go American!

[Black_Sheep]

Bath time and some cruising, it hasn’t been out of the garage since October...

[mick53]

I didn't get any work done but I ordered A Gates regular quality 8 rib K style mini V-belt for mock up and sizing. From McMaster Carr I ordered some stainless steel countersunk hex bolts for the water pump and an 82 degree spiral cut countersink bit for the mill. Also a 3'/8" to 5/16" bushing for the alternator. I'm not sure where my blower belt ends up but the bolt heads sticking out of the water pump pulley would possibly impede on that plane. I contacted the pulley company and found out it has a type 3 anodizing. I called a local anodizing shop about stripping and recoating it black when I get done messing it up. They also said it wont damage my tooling. I contacted the acoustic glass manufacturer to find out where to send the patterns so they can make my glass. Just a normal do nothing day. One off is so much fun. I think probably most people don't realize how much time is spent on this stuff. Be polite and beg if necessary and most people are quite helpful. Thank you for your time.

[evilokc]

put the front and side hood emblems on. it was a mess. i fabricated some new mounting straps to replace the bent up originals. looks good now

[mick53]

I received my belt and practiced my grooving technique some more yesterday. I'm feeling more confident now. Hopefully my bolts and countersink come today. I also got my bushing for the alternator. The water pump bolt is 5/16" and the alternator bolt is 3/8".

[DransportGarage]

Don't leave the peaks so sharp that they cut your belt.

[idbeast]

Mick53 here is what you need.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Don't leave the peaks so sharp that they cut your belt.

I understand. I'm just trying to build a little confidence before messing with the expensive pulley. Thanks.

[mick53]

The water pump pulley I'm adapting I believe is for a reverse rotation Ford application. The hole for the shaft is 3/4" on the spacer with countersink and 5/8" on the water pump so I made this adapter.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by mick53

I understand. I'm just trying to build a little confidence before messing with the expensive pulley. Thanks.

Yeah. Don't pay too much attention to me. I'm just writing stuff that I'd be sayin' if I was standing at the lathe with you...

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Yeah. Don't pay too much attention to me. I'm just writing stuff that I'd be sayin' if I was standing at the lathe with you...

All input is greatly appreciated.

[evilokc]

im working on getting my cab sealed up. slow and steady. i have a nice firewall cover to put in but i need to get some hush mat installed first

[oldstrk]

Getting some satin clear on

[mick53]

I have been working on my water pump pulley. I started cutting the grooves and it did not go well. I had a really hard time cutting the first groove and stopped before I messed it up. I worked on the front and let the problem stew in my little brain. I was ready to take it in when it occurred to me That the tool may be dragging on the pulley due to not enough relief cut on the tool. I will have to set it back up and take a look at it. I think it may have worked on the test piece due to the smaller diameter. Still rolling that around in my little brain. I countersunk the new bolts in the front of the pulley so they didn't project into the blower belt plane. There are 8 holes (2 bolt patterns) so I had to fill them all up. I cut .300" off the stainless steel bolts and chamfered them because I'm a civilized man. My lathe is super cool for cutting bolts. Of course I had to sand and polish them for aerodynamic reasons. I still need to take about .040" off the pulley spacer. I'll do that last. I may try to make a new tool and try to complete the grooving or puss out and take it in. Thank you for your time.

[mr48chev]

Dang that sure outdoes my measuring some doors to see where I am going to cut them to take two and make a longer one.

The wind is blowing so hard here that is a pain to try to do anything outside today.

[idbeast]

mick53 if your tool height is correct, it looks like it is more of a speed issue, 2024 cuts differently then 7075. I do this 8 hours a day 5-7 days a week.
Jim W

[NorCalGal]

Originally Posted by oldstrk

Getting some satin clear on

I like the matte clear over patina, never understood why one would put high gloss over patina. Just my opinion though.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by idbeast

mick53 if your tool height is correct, it looks like it is more of a speed issue, 2024 cuts differently then 7075. I do this 8 hours a day 5-7 days a week.
Jim W

I thought this was 6061 that I also know nothing about. The test piece I did was 6061. Should I call ID Designs and find out for sure what it's made of? When I did the countersink it seemed to cut fine. ?. My tool is also kinda Mickey mouse. This pulley diameter is 5.90". What spindle speed do I need?

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by mick53

I thought this was 6061 that I also know nothing about. The test piece I did was 6061. Should I call ID Designs and find out for sure what it's made of? When I did the countersink it seemed to cut fine. ?. My tool is also kinda Mickey mouse. This pulley diameter is 5.90". What spindle speed do I need?

I would call them and find out, as it does make a difference. 6061 with a carbide cutter at 5.90Dia would be 1826rpm
if using high speed steel it would be 324-388rpm
Jim W

[nvrdone]

trying to identify the 12 bolt truck rear axle thats in my '49. I know there should be an id number on the axle tube behind the right rear wheel but 70 + years of grease and crap and i cant find it. wire wheel doesnt cut it. may have to take the axle out and media blast it. all this to figure out what drum brakes i have in the rear.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by idbeast

I would call them and find out, as it does make a difference. 6061 with a carbide cutter at 5.90Dia would be 1826rpm
if using high speed steel it would be 324-388rpm
Jim W

Thanks I'll call them tomorrow. Meanwhile I will try to make a better tool.