Ok guys, Dagburn steering arm removal...

[LONGHAIR]

I'm not going to pretend that they are all easy, but it shouldn't be that hard.
The biggest thing I see wrong here was way too big of a hammer. The idea is to be able to hit it with some speed (repitition) which you can't do with a 3 foot sledge. You need to repeatedly beat it, hitting about the same spot every time. You will hear the sound change....that is at least one cone loosening. Next take a screwdriver and tap it into the slot of the cone, this will expand it slightly. You can then either slide it up or unscrew it like a nut.
You may have to modify a screwdriver to fit the slot w/o hitting the stud by grinding on the point a bit.

Heat is not necessarily a help here either. As everything heats it expands....making it all tighter. This is such a solid mass of metal that it would be nearly impossible to heat the arm and expect it to not transfer to everything else..........as evidenced by killing the ball-joint.

Steady repetitive shock..........not a huge blow

[72longbed]

Ok,
I'm the next member who has to do this job. I bought a 4" leaf spring lift for my 71 K20 and it was 'recommended' to change the steering arm. With all the trouble that goes into THAT job , and me needing to replace the drag link anyway, I think I'll just save my knuckles and look for the 'Drop Drag Link'.
Where should I start looking for one of those and how much of a drop for a 4" lift??

Thanks,
72longbed

[500HP/SB]

....haha....i just did this today, my truck was lifted 4 inches and never had the steering arm done. i had to rebuild the steering box so i went ahead and did the arm too. took me probly 3+ hrs (1 yesterday with aerokrol and 2 today with a 12lb sledge), its off now. i realy hope i can feel a differnce. it was temping to go to Xover while i was at it. good luck

[72longbed]

500HP/SB,

Is it really necessary to go with the steering arm with a 4" lift?? Do you have less of a turning radius?? Are there other problems that you had noticed without the new arm??

I just bought the 4" lift kit and didn't get the arm. I'm wondering if I can just go without it?

Is a 'dropped drag link' an easier option?

Thanks,
72longbed

[redz 1970 K5]

72 Longbed

Go to www.fourwheelparts.com

You can get a drop drag link from-

Genuine Suspension (124.99)

http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/pr...WP&expand=sub6

Explorer ProComp (131.99)

http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/pr...RO&expand=sub7

[redz 1970 K5]

For 4", you might be ok... Maybe just try it as is for starters. If the steering doesn't feel right, you should then try correction. Every truck is different.

However, 4" is the fine line, anything above 4" definitely requires correction.

[500HP/SB]

72 longbed, i bought the truck with the lift so i dont know how it felt before. i have ben driving it for a year this way and the steering is a litle sloppy so i'm just changing it while i'm doing the steering box (i had the arm kicking around). doing the drag link would definatly be easier to install. good luck

[JIMs70GMC]

Is a 'dropped drag link' an easier option?

As you can see the drop drag link cost more than the raised steering arm and only corrects for about 2" of lift.

[Richard]

I would not recommend the drop drag link. It does nothing to correct steering geometry, just addresses the ball-joint angles on the link. Something about having a pre-bent link in a high stress area does not give me any confidence in the product as well. Seen those S-shaped drag links on crossover setups fold a few times. IMO the 2" drop pitman arm would be a better choice if not wanting to mess with the steering arm.