My '69.

[basketcase]

The wheels.

[basketcase]

I'm still pecking along on this build. I've been doing a lot of small things and recently decided not to bother with rebuilding or replacing the steering rag joint. With the suspension upgrades I'm doing I want crisp steering response and a rag joint won't do that. I bought Borgeson joints and a collapsable steering shaft from Amazon to replace everything between the steering box and the column shaft. My old trunion is in excellent condition with no slop but it has to go in order to do the swap. The shaft is 3/4"DD on the upper end and 1"DD on the lower. The upper joint is 3/4" 36 spline by 3/4"DD and the lower joint is 13/16" 36 spline by 1"DD.

The photo shows the parts I'm using and their numbers. I'll get started on this this evening and post more photos.

Tom

[keh27]

Nice start, color looks to be same as mine

[Steeveedee]

Not sure how "un-crisp" a rag joint is, but the collapsible steering column will be a real live-saver in a front wreck with one of these trucks. I seem to recall that the steering column comes right up into the driver in such a crash.

[basketcase]

Originally Posted by keh27

Nice start, color looks to be same as mine

Looks like it. Spid says Dark Yellow and Saddle Tan interior. I'm fortunate that it still has the original paint, although with plenty of battle scars but practically no rust.

Tom

[basketcase]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Not sure how "un-crisp" a rag joint is, but the collapsible steering column will be a real live-saver in a front wreck with one of these trucks. I seem to recall that the steering column comes right up into the driver in such a crash.

Had a friend killed a few years ago when a guy ran a stop light and hit him head on while he was making a left turn with the green turn arrow on. He was driving his 1960 Corvette and the steering shaft is like a steel spear pointed right at the center of your chest.

Tom

I had a 59 vette in high school--looked pretty much like yours (primer no paint). Later had a 62 (my favorite year) and a 66 BB--matching numbers--fun cars. Look forward to your build.

[basketcase]

I'll have had my '59 for 50 years this coming August. I need to concentrate on the truck this year so I can make some progress on the '59 over the winter. I've also had a '65 convertible and a '67 427/390 horse coupe. like you said, fun cars.

Tom

[basketcase]

I made a little progress. Got the old shaft off and started mocking up the new parts. The upper joint slid on and there is a flat on the shaft to secure the set screw so it can't slide off. The lower spline on the box has some rust on it preventing the joint from sliding on easily with a little tapping. I'm going to have to clean up those splines. There is also a dimple on the flat to locate the set screw. Once I get the joints located I can measure for the collapsible shaft to determine how much needs to be cut and where.

[basketcase]

Just in case anyone can't read the Borgeson numbers in the post above here they are:

Borgeson 015240 13/16"-36 x 1" DD steering u-joint

Borgeson 013449 3/4"-36 x 3/4" DD Steering U-Joint

Borgeson 450024 24" Fully Extended Telescoping Shaft

To thoroughly clean all the rust off the steering box shaft I ties a paper shop towel around it and am keeping it soaked in rust remover for a few days. Tomorrow I'll take a look and see how clean it is.

[basketcase]

Had some time to do a little on it tonight. I finished cleaning up the splines and now the u-joint fits nicely. The nipple on the steering box shaft was very close to the trunion when I had the joint positioned correctly so, not needing it in this application, I cut it off. My DD shaft needs to be cut to 18.25 inches. Instructions say if it's over 17" it should all be cut from the tube end.

[basketcase]

To continue I took the u-joints off of the shafts and measured between the box shaft and the steering column shaft. That is the length the collapsible shaft needs to be. Extend the shaft out all the way, just under 27". Directions say if the shaft needs to be longer than 17" you cut all of the extra length off of the tube end only. If under 17" then it tells you how to measure to cut off of both ends. I needed 18 3/8" so only had to make the one cut.

Then slip the u-joints on the shaft ends so the shaft goes all the ay through the first half and is flush with the trunnion end. Then mark where to drill the hole for the long set screw and the dimples for the short set screws. Drill through one side only for the long set screw so you can bottom it out on the back side when installed. The dimples prevent the u-joint from slipping off of the shaft if they would loosen.

[basketcase]

There is a flat machined into the center of the splines on the steering column shaft to use for the set screw on the top end and you can see the groove around the steering box splines in the photo above that is perfect for the bottom end set screw. Since the bottom groove goes all the way around you can clock the steering wheel level with the wheels straight and slide the u-joint on.

Here is the shaft all assembled and then installed. Once I'm sure I won't have to remove it for anything else I'll remove the set screws one at a time and clean the threads and apply Loctite on them. Then tighten them and the lock nuts.

[basketcase]

The more I looked at my truck the less I liked the gap above my front tires with the 2" drop springs. I ordered a pair of McGaughy's Lowering Spindles 63176 from Summit and now it sits right. I also ordered 2" blocks for the rear to go with the 4" rear springs. Everything went together easy with the exception of having to chase the threads on one of the dust shield bolt holes and I had to use shorter bolts than I had in the GM spindles. When turning the wheels full lock either way I would have wheel contact with the lower control arm lower lip to the rear of the ball joint. A slight messaging with a flap wheel on my angle grinder fixed that. This I expected from reading other member's experiences. My Corvette style rally wheels are 4.5 inch backspacing and possibly a 15x8 with a more standard 4" backspacing might have cleared.

[basketcase]

Next I needed new brake hoses as the stock ones were too short. I've read all the threads on this so I knew it was going to be interesting. I used a '72 hard line kit and moved the hose tabs to the front of the crossmember. Grabbed a length of vacuum hose and used that to determine exactly what length I needed. Then I checked specs on hoses and the ones recommended in the various threads on the subject but none seemed to be just right. Summit had a 14" 3 AN hose and I also found banjo to 3AN and line to 3AN fittings so I ordered them and made up my own hoses. I used two 14" Summit 3 AN braided hoses, two Summit 35 degree banjo to 3 AN fittings, one Earls 3 AN to 7/16x24 adapter for the left side and one Willwood 3/8x24 to 3AN adapter on the right. The adapter fit the stock hose tabs and the clips fit also. You need the 35 degree banjo fitting to point the hose straight forward due to the angle of the caliper boss for the fitting. I'm pretty happy with the way it worked out. Now on to the next item.

[basketcase]

Hose photos. Sorry the right side is upside down. It's right side up in my photo library and I don't know what happened to it.

Tom

[basketcase]

It's getting closer. I have the wiring mostly finished and the front together. I need to install the hood so I can line up the front sheet metal and torque the front core support mounts. Got to get the '69 grille put together then I can go to the rear and remove the axle and trailing arms for paint and 5 lug conversion.

[basketcase]

Things are moving along. I did a smoke test on the truck. Hooked up the battery and checked all the systems I could. No tail lights on the truck right now so no turn signals. Dimmer switch is sticky but I can get high and low beam. I think I have a good one in the cabinet and the light switch is very rough feeling. I may have a new one of those also. Dash lights don't come on but shift indicator, turn lamp indicators, heater fan, high beam light work. Radio, original, doesn't come on or light up but I have no way of knowing if it worked before. Dash light problem may be from that sketchy light switch. But the good thing is no smoke anywhere so my wiring repairs seem to be ok.

Now I have to start testing circuits and checking bulbs. I also need to check grounds and add new ones as needed. I don't know if there are any straps from the cab to the frame but there will be. Starter solenoid clicks but I'm not ready to spin the engine yet. Engine has a mega ground strap on it.

Tom

[Steeveedee]

If you rotate the headlight switch knob all the way counter-clockwise, the dash lights should come on, even if the rheostat is broken.

[basketcase]

Thanks. I'll try that.

[basketcase]

I installed a new light switch and dimmer switch, and everything worked ok for a while. Then one of the relays in my headlight harness stuck. Now whenever I connect the battery the lights come on. I'll see if I can find some not made in China. I also installed new LED lights in the shop and took down the fluorescents. While I had the scaffold over the truck, I took a photo of the engine from above.

[yuccales]

Thanks for the update. Good looking truck for sure. Like the sign on far right also.