Hi! my '59

[OrrieG]

You have a later model axle, similar to the one in my truck, but without the lift block. When I ran the stock shocks I just welded a clip on the axle to receive the end of the shock. This time around I used the later mode mount points and beefed up the side of the frame. I did it that way because off-road I did not want anything hanging off the bottom of the axle to get sheared off or hung up. What you have is ok if you like the ride height and can get the correct square top "u" bolts.

You don't pound out u-joints unless you are out in the boonies and have no choice, to easy to damage the flange they sit in. They are pressed out using a bench vice and too sockets, one small enough to push thru from one side the other large so the end of the u-joint will go into it when pressed out. Once out you remove the cap and pull it back thru the hole. Installation is reverse process. If you have a hydralic press life is even better.

[Denee007]

The link below is about the only site that I can come up with as to what a 60's model or 230motor would be supported by. I can't seem to find those metal pieces that they show. Another thing that I see may be in the way is the clutch linkage which runs down the front left(drivers side) frame. It's really in the way. I'll take some better photos tomorrow sometime, just baby sitting and this 3 y/o doesn't like me to get on the computer! lol
Orrie, I've soaked the u joints and will take a look at that replacement Thursday. I have ordered shocks and the correct u bolts and the bolt/s that holds the leaf springs in place.

Another thing that I may do is the rear shock lower placement. The axle I have has the brackets on them for shocks, one faces forward and the other backwards, so I just need to mount the upper part of the shocks 'somewhere'(drill a hole?). I'll play with that idea soon!

As for the front windshield, or all the windows for that matter, the lady didn't have those, but they were removed for paint. The truck sat at a paint n body shop for 2 years and they worked on it at their leisure and allowed her to pay in off on a monthly basis. I paid 5500. for this truck, may not have been a great deal, but the paint alone would have been close to that price? it did come with the wood/chrome strips for the bed, and of course the power front disc brake conversion is nice that I don't have to do either! ; ) But like many here, I have plenty to keep me busy for a while.
I'm still looking intermitently for a V8/tranny setup.
be back~ ; )
http://www.persh.org/pickup/perches.htm

[Denee007]

In this first photo, it shows where the shock 'originally' mounted. But the axle already has some brackets on them, so I thought go ahead and use those. However, it's the upper placement of the shocks that is mostly of concern. So where would I drill holes for the upper stud to mount?

These next photos would be the new placement for the shocks: I'm just using the old shocks for mocking it up.

[Kabwe]

Hello and welcome to the site and nice looking truck you have there.

[tmoble]

that deal with the shock bottom mount off the back of the u-bolt plate and top mounted to the stud on the front of that crossmember is factory. I'd use that. I don't think that rear axle is the right one for the truck.

[OrrieG]

Maybe this will help. Axle is 74 K10 truck mounted to bottom of spring with bolts up (RAncho kit). Red circle is the clip I welded on to use the original shocks. Yellow are the factory shock clips, pink is the hole and flat plate in the frame. I used the approximate angle and location as the stock 74 truck. One shows in red the stock upper bracket and where the first shock was. In that photo I had not added the 1/2" plate on the inside of the frame to beef up the mount. Its a lifted 4wd application but principle is the same.

[classicchevyII]

Originally Posted by vjjack04

I suggest you look into this too-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLASS...#ht_1553wt_948

If it doesn't come through, this is a restoration book for these trucks. It is helpful.
Posted via Mobile Device

nice EPN link.

[Denee007]

Thanks Orrie! so, if I were to raise the rear by blocks, I'd use the system like that? (which by the way how nice and clean it is!!). Since mine won't be sitting up much higher than it is right now, the angle of my shock, can mine be a greater angle compared to yours? So I would drill a hole in the frame, weld on some metal on the inner frame, or outter frame~ the metal doesn't look terribly thick so my mig welder should be able to handle that weld. I"m sure I can dig up some metal somewhere around here. You think I should add a little height while I'm here? maybe a couple inches, and if so, where do I buy spacing blocks?
again, thank you Orrie!
dne'

[OrrieG]

Mine was raised using a Rancho 4" lift kit because placing the 4wd front axle on the bottom of the springs raises the truck that much (see photo). Your application does not need the blocks and you can mount the shocks in approximately the same location, shock length would change (I used 74 4" lifted shocks). If you want some height Rancho and others make them in 1" increments I believe. I measured from the mounting points then went to the local 4wd shop and found a shock that worked centered for that measurement. The additional plate is to keep the upper bolt from tearing up the frame. I used 1/4" plate (measured it last night) and just tack welded it to the inside of the frame after the shock mount bolt was tightened. I have a little Lincoln 140 welder which will tack 1/4" ok. Any angle up to 30 degrees off of vertical will work, over that and the shock will not work right. I matched the factory angle.

[Denee007]

Gee Orrie, your frame looks brand new! Again, thank you for your help! I think I'd like my rear bed up a little higher and I guess now is the time to do it. Maybe an 1" or so worth doing and that would mount the top of the shocks a tad higher? and eventually lower the front, but not ridiculously low, but logically, I need to get the thing running and see how it does down the road(around my neighborhood). I drove it down my street not long ago, and the granny gear does its thing and seems like I got into 4th gear too quickly, like the top end speed is going to be pretty low. There are no tags on the rear axle to tell me the ratio, but I suppose I can remove the backing plate and count the teeth(I read this somewhere dividing the larger gear by the smaller gear)? I'm frazelled from babysitting the past couple days! lol

[Denee007]

ok, looks like I'll have to use the u-bolts that go from the axle and up vs the square ubolts. I recieved the square u bolts today, but they are too narrow. I did get the ujoint in! something accomplished! There's a Rancho distributor not far from my home, I may go by there tomorrow and see what kind of shorter lift kits they may offer. just an 1" or 2".
Would this kit work from jegs?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...60801/10002/-1

[dicer]

There is supposed to be a bracket that contacts the axle and kinda cradles it, and the u bolts go through it. Scroll up to the line drawing and you kinda see it.

[OrrieG]

To check the ratio make a chalk mark on the passenger drum and drive line. Turn the drum 1 rotations and count the drive line rotations. The number will be close to the ratio. Little over 4=4.10, 3-3/4=3.73, little over 3= 3.08, 3.25=3.23 ratio. I would expect to find a 3.73, pretty common ratio for that type of rear end. Take good measurement of axle diameter, spring width and height you want to Rancho. I did mine over the telephone and they were able to get me the right kit and shock recommendation.

[dicer]

Nomenclature,
Backing plate, usually the round plate behind the brake drum that holds the brake shoes and wheel cylinder.

Thing on the rear of the differential gear sets, just a good old differential cover.

Corrections welcome.