1962 GMC K15 Project

[steven.burns]

Finally did it! I bought a brand new Holley 500 cfm carb, adapter, throttle return kit, and the fitting from Jegs today. Looks like I'll be a happy but broke man for the next few weeks

I also got my dipstick today and decided to clean it up a bit and paint it

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Excellent! You're going to love that Holley and you'll be glad you did it right to begin with. Two thumbs up!

[steven.burns]

Got my new Holley 500 carb installed the other day. Just waiting to get a starter, battery, air cleaner, fuel lines and she just might be running. Also got another picture from the front end for you guys. She has a Chevy hood but I plan on getting the correct GMC hood eventually.

[steven.burns]

So I have some very good news. I finally got my battery and fuel lines, fuel filter, vacuum hose and gas for my truck. I also bought a rebuilt starter off rockauto but didn't install it yet. We put everything together minus the starter and turned it over a few times and she fired up! But ran out of gas right away since I forgot to fill the tank. Added fuel and she fired up like a champ. We let her run for about ten minutes and she ran great. Turned her off for a bit but when we went to start it back up again nothing happened. Turn the key and nothing, no noise or anything. So we decided to change the starter with the new one I bought. Turns out they aren't the exact same starter. Holes don't line up right. But they look like they might have the same components internally, I might try to switch them out. Do these trucks have different starters for the different model 305's? I have the 305E if that helps

[oem4me]

If the old starter went from working to totally dead and not working in only ten minutes, then my guess is poor connections. The first thing that came to mind however, was that you probably ran out of gas again. I've heard it a million times that those V6's suck more gas than you can ever imagine.

[steven.burns]

I'm pretty sure the starter is getting stuck or something. The connections seems pretty good. The starter did that when I first looked at the truck too that's why I bought a new one. Do you know if the different years had different starters?

[63burban4x4]

Just make sure you have really good battery cables, terminals, and a GOOD battery before you give that starter the R.I.P. Any weakness in the delivery of juice can make the starter seem like it's bad.

[63burban4x4]

also I notice, it looks like the truck might have a second fuel tank under the bed (is that a filler I see?) it's pretty common for these old trucks, after sitting around, to pick up crap from the tank. I THINK it's possible the truck could have been ordered with two tanks..... if there are two, have you tried running off both? is there a switch-over lever....could be down between the seat and door? Not sure if they were available, but I wouldn't be surprised....someone who knows more about the options available may chime in. I had a 72 GMC Sierra Grande with two tanks, switched with your left hand by a little lever between the driver door and the seat.

Man, that truck's a great start.....up here in the rusty northeast, we NEVER find stuff like that! That thing's worth a grand here all day, every day!

[63chevy4x4]

Im running 33x10.5s15s and they fit great, if you have 12.5 wide tires they will catch on the lip on the box in the wheel well.

[Jmageee902004]

Im not sure about the different year starter thing for the 305.
but I have a 350 with an unknown year (i was told 87).i brought the starter into a FLAPS and the guy behind the counter looked at the 87 350 starter and it wasn't the same. So he opened a few boxes in back and found me a 1997 or so V6 starter that happened to be the same or at least look the same. I installed it and its been working fine for over a year.
Of course in my experience most chain stores wont be this helpful, since there knowledge doesn't go past what the computer tells them. (such as me being told Chevrolet didn't offer 4x4s in 1964) And you may get that blank stare that always accompanies a lazy employee.
And i second the battery wire thought. My wires where going bad/too small and gave me quite a lot of starter troubles (working intermittently). I switched them out for 0 or 1 gauge wire and i couldn't believe the difference it made. Just a cheap easy suggestion.

[steven.burns]

The battery could be bad but we even had a battery charger/jumper hooked up and it still didn't budge the starter. My father in law and I tried to do the solenoid bypass trick with a screwdriver across the terminals (I've never heard of that but he said he used to do that to all his old trucks all the time) and still nothing.
Yes, 63burban4x4 your right that is an auxiliary fuel tank but the fuel smelt bad so I haven't used it yet. The carb is getting fuel, I know that. We disconnected the fuel hose from the carb and it pumps fuel (when it was running of course). Maybe it could be the solenoid? or maybe the Ignition switch or connecting wires?

[padresag]

what happens when a battery cable goes bad is that the cable turns green inside and restricts the flow of electricity and it seems just like a dead battery. if you make a cut in the covering by the terminal ends and peel it back a bit you will see if that is the problem-solution-new cables
ron

[steven.burns]

I'll check it out tomorrow. thanks for the tip padresag!

[63burban4x4]

If it was me, I'd probably go ahead and invest in some new cables anyway, with the terminals made right onto them, they work best in the long run. Jumping the starter terminals still won't help if the cables are not getting the juice TO the starter. Also, a charger/booster won't always overcome a dead shorted battery, either. I'd do NEW cables & battery, and if you already have the starter out, take it to a good auto electric shop, if you can find one, they should be able to bench test it for you. Nothing like having a truck that will start everytime!

I'd at least keep an extra fuel filter around too....very common to have trouble from rust in the tanks on any old vehicle that sits around......sitting around, temp changes can cause condensation in the tank, and condensation = rust. Plenty of threads here about tank/rust problems. You may not find those problems till you've started driving it, but it'd be a shame to get junk in that nice new carb!

I'm not sure just how rare that 2nd tank is, but I'll tell you, the one in my 72 GMC was made from really heavy welded steel, not stamped like the cab tank. Nice option to have, I'd like to add a second to my suburban. I've picked up an extra filler door (suburban & panels have a door) for a future one and I'll bet one of those factory option ones would work for me. Of course, as I remember, they mount outside the frame rails, just hanging from the bed, and may have had a support under it too, bolted to the frame? Unprotected in a crash, but at least they are pretty heavy steel.

Looks like she had a winch, too at one time, another thing I'd like to have on my suburban! I'd prefer a little more stock looking bumper, but the one on yours sure looks stout.

[steven.burns]

Will an auto parts store know I the starter is bad or good? It would suck to have to buy another new one.
The side tank is pretty thick, I think it might be factory. It probably hasn't be used for quite awhile since the gas smells pretty bad. I'll drain it and use fresh fuel before I switch to that tank.
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[63burban4x4]

I don't know about an auto parts store.....most around here would probably not, plus they'd likely rather just sell you a new one first. If it still doesn't work with new cables and a new battery, I would definitely try to find an auto electric shop....most bigger towns should have one, they usually specialize in starters, alternators, generators, and stuff like that. These guys usually know a lot about older stuff, and how to fix it. Chances are a complete rebuild would still be less than a replacement from an auto parts store. Just my opinion. Good luck

[argonaut]

This could be a couple of things related to an old starter. As the brushes wear, they have a tendency to get wedged in their slots and then don't make good contacts with the rotor. In this case you usually have to carry around a hammer and tap the side of the starter case to jar the brushes loose. Then it starts up fine!

Another thing that happens is that old crusty solenoids that have had too much heat and heat cycling being located near the engine and the exhaust, they develop micro cracks in the windings over time. When its cold the solenoid will work, but once heat soaked they won't work. I've also had this happen. You have to wait a while for the stupid thing to cool down before it will work. This is why many have little heat shields on them.

Like others have said, could be a bad battery. But you can check that easily if yu have a charger handy.

Could be a bad ground too. Check conductivity through all wires on the circuit.

There are different bolt patterns for small blocks and big blocks, automatics and manual trans bellhousings. Are your stock starter bolt holes aligned straight, or are they staggered? Odds are on a rare-ish motor like this the parts store has the incorrect starter cataloged in their system. So you might ask to see a few different models as other have suggested. If you post a pic I'm sure we can help faster.

[63burban4x4]

a quick google turned up Redlands Auto Electric, on North Eureka St. you might see if they could bench test that starter if you still have it out. Might be better than just throwing parts at it.

[steven.burns]

So I went to Redlands Auto Electric this morning and the guy hooked it up to a battery and it worked fine. He said he saw no problems with it at all. So I went to AutoZone and picked up some battery connector wires. Those seem to work well when connected to the battery. The old wires seemed kinda crusty and didn't work all that well I guess. Hopefully I cant get the starter put back on and wired up on Friday so I can see what the next problem is.
Got some pics of both starters

[63burban4x4]

Yeah, I'm betting your problems were in the cables, and/or the battery itself. as I said. Lot of times you may think that hooking up a charger/starter to it will work, but if the battery's really toast, it still just won't get the juice to the starter. Did you end up being able to return the starter you bought? Often, it's no returns on electrical stuff.......but at least you know yer starter is good. Worst case, if you are stuck with it, at least you got one on the shelf, (if it's correct! bolt flange doesn't look the same though) although you may never need it.

I'm betting your next issues that turn up might be with crap in the fuel tank.....have fun!

[steven.burns]

Got her running again! Thanks for all your guys help. It ended up being the battery cables. The starter seems fine. Used 2 gauge wire and it works great.
Now I have to figure out the rest of the electrical problems. Like the headlights, only the outer lights come on but only one at a time. Far Left light High beam, Far Right light low beam. The two inner lights don't even turn on. Tail lights work but brake lights don't. The cab light, radio, dash, and running lights don't work either. Looks like more time and money. Things I don't have much of

[steven.burns]

So I decided to take my truck for a spin around the block for the first time today. She sure does like low rpm's. One thing I noticed is how difficult the steering is. It has power steering but I don't know if it's working. would I even be able to steer if it wasn't working? If it was working I couldn't imagine without P/S. My buddy has a '68 F250 without P/S and it turns just as easy. Makes me thing it's bad.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by steven.burns

So I decided to take my truck for a spin around the block for the first time today. She sure does like low rpm's. One thing I noticed is how difficult the steering is. It has power steering but I don't know if it's working. would I even be able to steer if it wasn't working? If it was working I couldn't imagine without P/S. My buddy has a '68 F250 without P/S and it turns just as easy. Makes me thing it's bad.

a couple of things to check
what is the condition of the p/s fluid. is the level up what colour is the fluid red or brown and does it smell sharp or burnt. how is the tension on the p/s belt. do you hear a squeal when you are turning hard?
ron

[steven.burns]

When I checked the power steering fluid when I first brought the truck home I thought it was full. I guess not, it took almost a full quart of P/S fluid. Now it makes a lot grinding sound. Guessing the bearings went out from being dry. How could I fix this or is it easy to replace on the 305 V6?
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[padresag]

Originally Posted by steven.burns

When I checked the power steering fluid when I first brought the truck home I thought it was full. I guess not, it took almost a full quart of P/S fluid. Now it makes a lot grinding sound. Guessing the bearings went out from being dry. How could I fix this or is it easy to replace on the 305 V6?
Posted via Mobile Device

you may have air in it and perhaps it needs to be bleed
Don't know whether or not it works on this system but with the later ones, you lift the front wheels off the ground. start it up and go lock to lock 3 or 4 times
check the fluid and add some if it needs it. then try it again. where is it leaking- hoses or the ram?
how is the belt tension
ron