Replaced weatherstripping and can barely close the door!

[Sklptrljay]

I have some push-ins I took from a 95' (or around there) Tahoe, and they definitely make it hard to shut. It is getting better though over time.

I read somewhere that if you get some from a Dodge truck ( I think 90's to 00's) they tend to fit our trucks very well.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

I have some push-ins I took from a 95' (or around there) Tahoe, and they definitely make it hard to shut. It is getting better though over time.

I read somewhere that if you get some from a Dodge truck ( I think 90's to 00's) they tend to fit our trucks very well.

'87 - '97 Dodge Dakota.

LockDoc

[68gmsee]

I bought the GMCPaul ones about three years ago or so. It took about 2 years of hot summers to loosen up. I moved the striker plate out slightly and that helped so I didn't have to slam the door real hard to shut it. It is now easy to close the door.

One thing I found out is that if I slowly close the door to within 6 inches to a foot and then pushed hard, it lessened the effort. I suppose it had to do with the tighter seals and this allowed cab air to escape first.

[Lees68GMC]

Maybe this is a stupid question but, in the door rubber install instructions it says to cut a large "V" shape out where you join the ends of the rubber gasket under the sill plate. This is supposedly to allow air in and to be pushed out of the interior lining (tubing) of the rubber gasket when you open and close the doors.

Just Thinking

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

'87 - '97 Dodge Dakota.

LockDoc

I believe 87-96.

[kxmotox247]

I recieved a very thorough response from Paul at GMC pauls. I'll have to ask his permission to post it here but it sort of addresses everything mentioned above. In my case, I left the weather stripping off the rocker completely and there is no glass in the door so I can't imagine its trapped air in the weatherstripping or cab.
Paul was confident that the weatherstripping would soften up and it would get better with time. I'll probably move the front of the door out and shim the fenders out to match as long as it doesn't leave me with an unsightly gap at the cowl.
The push on seals look nice... and no doubt I'll get a good seal. But I'm not sure my 5 year old daughter is going to be able to close the door for another 2 years or more. I'll be working on mine in the next few days and will update when I move the door out.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

........
Paul was confident that the weatherstripping would soften up and it would get better with time. I'll probably move the front of the door out and shim the fenders out to match as long as it doesn't leave me with an unsightly gap at the ....

Before you go through all that trouble on my post above I mentioned moving the striker plate on the door column. That will be the easiest thing to try first and mine doesn't look that far out of alignment.

Re. softening... I don't think it really softens, at least not noticeably. I think what happens is that it conforms to the door.

[leddzepp]

I used GMC Paul's press on seals. Fit great, nice and tight. I will never use glue on OEM style again.

[SonomaComa]

Is there any videos available for installing weather stripping on 67-72 GM pickups? I Just purchased a 1970 GMC C-20 and it does not have any weather stripping on the doors. I purchased some weather stripping from Classic Industries, http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...rts/w9009.html But I had one friend tell me to glue it to the Door itself and not to the Door Frame on the Cab.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by SonomaComa

Is there any videos available for installing weather stripping on 67-72 GM pickups? I Just purchased a 1970 GMC C-20 and it does not have any weather stripping on the doors. I purchased some weather stripping from Classic Industries, http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...rts/w9009.html But I had one friend tell me to glue it to the Door itself and not to the Door Frame on the Cab.

You can't do that on these trucks, it has to fit over the pinch weld on the cab.

LockDoc

[NoNeck]

We had the same problem on our last truck. It did get a little better over time, but we still had to really slam the door. A friend of mine who owns a body shop suggested that we drill small holes about 6" apart into the rubber. He said that this would allow more air to escape when the door is first closed. Most newer cars and trucks use the perforated weatherstrip (see pic). I realize that the weatherstrip in the photo is GLUED TO THE DOOR, rather than in the pinch weld. But the principal should be the same.

It sounds reasonable, but I don't know if it works or not. The truck was sold before we were able to try it. Just an idea...

[leftybass209]

So I've been using the GMCPauls press-on weatherstripping for over a year and a half. Yes, it gets better, no the doors will never shut like new doors they will always need a firm slam.

I don't like it, and I'll be looking for a less firm weatherstrip to experiment. The stuff on my dad's 55 is soft, thin, and may work.

I find the issue with mine is the area next to the dash. That's the place it first contacts, and the place where it distorts the most. One idea I had was to slice the inside edge of that area so it would collapse easier. I won't do it until I have another weatherstripping though.

[HeavyD]

Sooooo....no matter what we use the doors, even after the rubber "softens" will alwAys need to be slammed? Theres no replacement available that works correctly?

No wonder the patina/do the drivetrain, leave the body as is trend is so popular. They just roll as is with no worries about fitment of parts..

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by HeavyD

Sooooo....no matter what we use the doors, even after the rubber "softens" will alwAys need to be slammed? Theres no replacement available that works correctly?

No wonder the patina/do the drivetrain, leave the body as is trend is so popular. They just roll as is with no worries about fitment of parts..

I went through the same BS on my farm truck. What annoys me is that you never have this problem with new cars or putting new weatherstrip on late model stuff. Can you imagine if you bought a new Yukon and they said "you're going to have to slam the doors for a while."

And one of the best parts of this patina thing that I am happily part of is it minimizes aftermarket sheetmetal so fitment is better.

[Greenlee]

Move the striker out a bit. When the rubber loosens up, adjust it back in. I replaced all the rubber door seals on my 83' and have adjusted the striker several times. You guys are making a big deal out of nothing.

[kxmotox247]

I tried the GMC pauls weatherstripping but refuse to slam the doors on my truck.

I ended up using Soft Seal weatherstripping and was really happy with it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

I tried the GMC pauls weatherstripping but refuse to slam the doors on my truck.

I ended up using Soft Seal weatherstripping and was really happy with it.

Those glue or snap in?

[leddzepp]

Used Dakota seals worked great on my 68. Broken in already, no need to slam the door. Every truck will have different results from what I have read

[volksworld]

clicked on this and got to see my post from 2 yrs ago...the pathetic part is life got in the way,haven't touched the truck,and the seals are still taped in place...oh well....the good news is after being forced closed for about three years i can finally open and close my vent windows normally

[kxmotox247]

Glue on. Summit racing had them in stock.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks

[HeavyD]

Did the soft seal require much door abuse?

[ckhd]

I had the same problem when I did my '68. I took a heat gun, and at the front of the door, there is a solid section. I used a heat gun to soften this piece, then shut the door and let it cool. Did that several times and it got to where I could stand to slam it. It has also 'broke in' over the last few years too.

[Sparky dave]

I bought the ones with the mounded corners and paid extra for the privilege! Tried everything and they are miles off. Done all my bodywork now so no way going to slam my arse into the door to shut it ( which is what’s needed) I’ve cut away material on the hinge side which helped but now looks **** so they are going in the bin. Wish everyone could get together and stop people selling this junk that’s not fit for purpose. Ok Dave now breath! Sorry guys I’m spitting feathers here! Going to try find the 09 civic ones as mentioned. Thanks for the good info. Peace out

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Sparky dave

I bought the ones with the mounded corners and paid extra for the privilege! Tried everything and they are miles off. Done all my bodywork now so no way going to slam my arse into the door to shut it ( which is what’s needed) I’ve cut away material on the hinge side which helped but now looks **** so they are going in the bin. Wish everyone could get together and stop people selling this junk that’s not fit for purpose. Ok Dave now breath! Sorry guys I’m spitting feathers here! Going to try find the 09 civic ones as mentioned. Thanks for the good info. Peace out

I just bought and installed the new altman (bearclaw) latches from trique manufacturing on my 70. You have to do some significant (and scary) cutting to install but they are otherwise bolt-in and work really well. I've got a couple pics and a video clip on my IG page.