Battery charging problem.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Mackie

Disconnecting the battery cable while running is the wrong way to test the alternator and may cause damage. Please get a volt, ohm meter. They're only 8 bucks for an entry level one. Test positive/negative at the battery at idle and when you rev it to 2K or so, watching for voltage increase.

10si 3 wire's are a simple hook up.

8ga. wire from bat. + to big terminal, a short jumper from terminal # 2 to the bat term. on the alt. and a wire from key-on source (like ign. switch) thru the idiot light to term #1.

I need to ASAP! I've been putting it off too much cuz of no time, I'm gonna make the point this week. Thank you for that diagram! Is that jumper similar to those that Brothers truck sells? I would definitely invest in this, do I have to take off the voltage regulator since the new alternator would be internal and don't need the regulator and would of course have the option to splice the wires there.

[Mackie]

You can remove the regulator but with the pics you posted of your wiring I don't think I would reuse any of it. I'm not sure what jumper Brothers offers. I wired my 10si from scratch. It's not much more than some hunks of wire and a few terminals and a pair of crimpers to invest in.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Mackie

You can remove the regulator but with the pics you posted of your wiring I don't think I would reuse any of it. I'm not sure what jumper Brothers offers. I wired my 10si from scratch. It's not much more than some hunks of wire and a few terminals and a pair of crimpers to invest in.

Okay then, I was going to just cross the wiring anyways, I was asking about the jumpers because of the picture. Yes the regulator and horn relay like too old and worn out to reuse.

[Isaiah92260]

What do you guys think about this Alternator? It's a 10si 3-wire, does anyone have experience with their quality of alternators?
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4516-h...FYQ8aQodowwHFQ

[Isaiah92260]

I also found this one for $65, in a little skeptical now because that's a damn good price! For a105amp!

[Mackie]

Yeah, I'd be suspicious too. Do you rally need 100+ amp alternator? Big amp sound system? Winch? Off road lights?

I got a cheapie Autozone stock replacement for a 74 Caprice or something which is only like 63 amp but my biggest draws are H4 halogen headlights and the Thrift heater fan. I think I paid $65 and it had a short term warranty.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Mackie

Yeah, I'd be suspicious too. Do you rally need 100+ amp alternator? Big amp sound system? Winch? Off road lights?

I got a cheapie Autozone stock replacement for a 74 Caprice or something which is only like 63 amp but my biggest draws are H4 halogen headlights and the Thrift heater fan. I think I paid $65 and it had a short term warranty.

You have a point there. I plan on getting a pretty decent sound system someday and replace my whole wire harness and get halogen and led tail lights. That's only just about what I need. That's about the use of a 100amp or a little less no?

[vince1]

Go to Rockauto and check out their CS130 for an 89 Pontiac Safari. which is the more modern version of the 10si. It charges much better at low RPM and at 105 amps has all the capacity you will ever need. You would also need the PLIS connector. L to lamp and S to sense voltage point or put it to the output post.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by vince1

Go to Rockauto and check out their CS130 for an 89 Pontiac Safari. which is the more modern version of the 10si. It charges much better at low RPM and at 105 amps has all the capacity you will ever need. You would also need the PLIS connector. L to lamp and S to sense voltage point or put it to the output post.

Hank you! Which one do you recommend that I should get? And are they 3-wire?

[Isaiah92260]

What does PL and FS stand for on the 2 other connections?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by vince1

Go to Rockauto and check out their CS130 for an 89 Pontiac Safari. which is the more modern version of the 10si. It charges much better at low RPM and at 105 amps has all the capacity you will ever need. You would also need the PLIS connector. L to lamp and S to sense voltage point or put it to the output post.

PLIS Connector? Where do I find that and how do I wire that to my motor? I still have to cross the wiring at the voltage regulator and the remove the regulator when I install the alternator.

[vince1]

I just pick a nice one from the auto wreckers when I need one. Then the connector comes with it. If it is a newer one with the serpentine pulley I exchange it with a pulley from an older alternator. 15/16" box end wrench and I forget what size allen wrench does the job. Connectors I believe can be obtained from local auto parts stores.

I am not really up on it but as far as I know the P (or pulse?) could be used for a tach. The I or F labeling is sometimes interchanged. I've seen both labelled for the one terminal at one alternator I looked at. Maybe and a big maybe, an ignition wire sometimes goes there. Different GM cars have different numbers of wires running to them (alternators) so I am not sure what that is about either.

I do know that the few times I have used them and hooked the lamp wire to L, and in simplified terms the S to the output post, and the output post to the load/battery; they perform marvelously.

[vince1]

If retrieving one from the auto wreckers be aware that there are many different mounting configurations. I look for the 6.6" across and 180 degrees opposite so they fit the same way as our older alternators. That one, or those listed for the 89 Pontiac Safari on the Rock auto site will do that. Somewhere on the Rockauto site they probably also list the connector.

[DaddyOh]

If you're out in the desert, just run up to yucca and go to Ace alternator... they will be able to sort you out very quickly...honest and good guys up there.

[vince1]

Agreed, quickest and probably cheapest way will be to have the pros look after you. Carry on your merry way and forget about it.

But if you like going through all the pain and probably mistakes in learning how to do it like this idiot has done, that also has its rewards. Once you get through the process, a duff alternator in your old truck most likely will never scare you again.

[vince1]

The way this started with me was that my trusty original 35 amp Prestolite alternator and regulator on my 64 Rambler, after having traveled 145K miles, were finally worn out or rusted. A regulator alone, if even the correct one, was going to cost me over $180.

Figured out how to wire in a 10si. Didn't like it because the light would come on at really low idle. Tried another, the same. Sold one, still have the first one (spare). Maybe it will go into my truck when I do away with the regulator. Put a CS130 in the Rambler and now the light is out before the engine starts. I think the Rambler crank pulley may be slightly smaller in dia. causing the light to come on at low idle when the 10si was in there.

I helped another fellow by installing said fantastic alternator in his car and he is equally pleased with its performance.

Saw a CS 130 in a Mustang at a car show that won best muscle car. I asked the guy why the GM alternator. He said his friend, who owned an alternator shop, wired his car and used that alternator.

Isaiah, I think you are a little over hyped on this thing, as I was when it all started for me. A one wire like has been suggested in your new thread, might be the easiest for you. Whichever you decide on it is still just an alternator and they all do the same job in charging the battery. we'll help when it comes to the nitty gritty of hooking it up.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by vince1

The way this started with me was that my trusty original 35 amp Prestolite alternator and regulator on my 64 Rambler, after having traveled 145K miles, were finally worn out or rusted. A regulator alone, if even the correct one, was going to cost me over $180.

Figured out how to wire in a 10si. Didn't like it because the light would come on at really low idle. Tried another, the same. Sold one, still have the first one (spare). Maybe it will go into my truck when I do away with the regulator. Put a CS130 in the Rambler and now the light is out before the engine starts. I think the Rambler crank pulley may be slightly smaller in dia. causing the light to come on at low idle when the 10si was in there.

I helped another fellow by installing said fantastic alternator in his car and he is equally pleased with its performance.

Saw a CS 130 in a Mustang at a car show that won best muscle car. I asked the guy why the GM alternator. He said his friend, who owned an alternator shop, wired his car and used that alternator.

Isaiah, I think you are a little over hyped on this thing, as I was when it all started for me. A one wire like has been suggested in your new thread, might be the easiest for you. Whichever you decide on it is still just an alternator and they all do the same job in charging the battery. we'll help when it comes to the nitty gritty of hooking it up.

I was told it is better to go with a 3 wire because 1 wire is more for tractor that doesn't have any other accessories, 3 wire charges better, I'm asking so many questions because this is going to be my daily driver for a long time and I want to hook it up the proper way and last me a long time.... The CS130 you mention is a 1 wire?

[vince1]

No, it could be considered a 3 wire, just like the 10 si. Terminal 1 on the 10si corresponds to terminal L (lamp) on the CS130. Terminal 2 on the 10si corresponds to terminal S (sense) on the CS130. The newer one just has a better way of naming them.

[vince1]

I think that was good advice the fellow gave suggesting to shop locally. Just ask for the alternator you want. Rockauto has been OK for me but there is always the possibility of getting the wrong part, and then the fun begins. That 89 Pontiac Safari reference I posted is from reading it on the Internet, and from more than one source. I have confidence in it but no guaranties.