1976 CCSB Duramax Project #trucknamedsue

[Devilman]

Soooo ummm when can I drop my 78 off for this same engine mount & suspension setup??? Lol but seriously I'd buy the entire kit from you if you wanna make a copy of yours.

Is there a big difference in widths between the 05+ ford axle and the AAM rear? I've been searching for a GM Dana 60 front axle but they're either junk or $1000+ still needing rebuilt. I've found loads of the 05+ ford axle with low miles for cheap and would like to use one of them.

[Devilman]

Originally Posted by RADustin

Thanks man. I checked out your work, looking nice!



kicking around the idea. that was the plan with making everything bolt on, is eventually offering it as a kit. It's a TON of work to make what I've done so far. I feel like I could do an entire frame quicker. I'm not sure what the future holds, I just want to get this first kit done and on the road for some testing. We'll see after that.

Not all GM AAMs are the same. I'm using the LML variant, 2011+. It's a little wider than the earlier 2010- AAMs. Not sure what AAM you have?

Bolt pattern has been a major topic lately with the end decision to keep the 8x170 everywhere. So I will be machining the rear hubs for it, and drilling the rotors. Also going to be swapped to the 60tooth ABS tone rings in the rear to match the front. Basically my front D60 will be bone stock and the rear will have all the modifications to work. I'd rather have drilled rear hubs(non wear item) than drilled front unit bearings(wear item). It sucks the rotors will be 'custom' but it's not the end of the world.

The difference in width between the axles is 0.394" per side, with the front axle being wider. (71.496" vs 70.709") I attached a pic as well to show.

I've got an 08 dodge dually AAM rear. But I can get my hands on an 11+ axle easily. I'd do way with the abs and use a free-spin kit with a 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern on the front 05+ axle.....that was my thought process anyways on having everything the same bolt pattern.

[Devilman]

Originally Posted by RADustin

the free spins are just $$. Especially considering the units are plenty strong and already there.

But it certainly is an option.

That was my only option to retain the 8 on 180 if I wanted.

A '14 Dodge AAM is 71.574".

Oh yeah they're definitely expensive, only reason I'd use a free-spin kit is I've already got one for the ford axle, found it on Craigslist for less than a grand so I jumped on it.
Fab work is looking awesome bud, let me know on the suspension & engine mount kit, I'm ready

[Jkwood_80]

Originally Posted by RADustin

Thanks man. I checked out your work, looking nice!



kicking around the idea. that was the plan with making everything bolt on, is eventually offering it as a kit. It's a TON of work to make what I've done so far. I feel like I could do an entire frame quicker. I'm not sure what the future holds, I just want to get this first kit done and on the road for some testing. We'll see after that.

Not all GM AAMs are the same. I'm using the LML variant, 2011+. It's a little wider than the earlier 2010- AAMs. Not sure what AAM you have?

Bolt pattern has been a major topic lately with the end decision to keep the 8x170 everywhere. So I will be machining the rear hubs for it, and drilling the rotors. Also going to be swapped to the 60tooth ABS tone rings in the rear to match the front. Basically my front D60 will be bone stock and the rear will have all the modifications to work. I'd rather have drilled rear hubs(non wear item) than drilled front unit bearings(wear item). It sucks the rotors will be 'custom' but it's not the end of the world.

The difference in width between the axles is 0.394" per side, with the front axle being wider. (71.496" vs 70.709") I attached a pic as well to show.

Exceptional work! Im undergoing a nearly identical project axles and everything. Any way you sell me you CAD drawings of the suspension brackets?

[aggie91]

That's one heck of an update. Totally blown away.

[RADustin]

man that's a steal!

yep- for sure I'll let you know. I can't bring myself to sell anything though until I've beat the crap out of it personally and I know it's 100%.

When that happens you'll know.

[RADustin]

Moving along.

Front axle side 4-link ends bent up, fit, welded, and tac'd to bars to hang front axle. I will have to take the ends back off to finish welding everything but I wanted to fit up the front axle before I got too far.








swung the D60 underneath.




I wanted to check a bunch of different things next. The body mounts I made, the engine/trans fitment, and the front wheelbase. So I need to get my cab off the donor and ready to go.

The donor '76. C35, true camper special with 10,000lbs title. The bed is wrecked, but I won't use it. Only using the cab and front clip, plus interior items.




I didn't touch the mechanical systems. I'm hoping to sell the frame as a roller, running.


cab getting cleaned up, vacuumed out. It's real clean. I only found 2 rust through spots, under two of the cab clearance lights. I further stripped the firewall to nothing. I won't be using the stock AC or anything.




to get the 4x4 tunnel in and effectively convert my 2wd cab to a 4x4 cab, I started by laying the weld in half in and marking around it.


then I offset the marker line with tape to make the cut line. also mapped out the front bolt in half.


cut out the rear half and cleaned the bottom of the lip. This was terrible work. I use weld thru primer on the weld in parts lip and the cab side lip to help prevent rust. I'll also seam seal everything later on.


drilled for plug welds and celco'd in the weld in half from the bottom.


welded in. I perfer to TIG the rosette welds so I can heat everything up, fill, then keep the heat on letting it all flow. Also cut front half. I didn't cut front and back out of cab at once to keep as much material in there at all times.


test fit front bolt in piece.


Then I was able to test fit the cab. It fits perfect. I'm very happy. The ride height is a little low for what it'll be final, but its close. and ofcourse the final tires will be bigger.








to get the bed ready, I needed to remove the center crossmember from the bed floor. from my research, some beds got this piece and some didn't. My bed floor had it, but it would be in the way of the gooseneck, so I removed it. Drilled the spot welds and popped it out-


since I used a small pilot hole and a 3/8" annular cutter to drill out the spot welds, I had the small pilot hole to fill in the bed floor. I drill my pilots all the way through. So I TIG'd up these little holes and smoothed top and bottom.




and that's caught up with current. I hope to test fit the bed and check rear wheelbase soon. I need to order lots of parts and figure out steering and front track bar. Also have some engine items to handle.

Update again in a few days.

[Devilman]

Oh man it looks perfect!! Im leaving mine a dually and love the ride height you have now, maybe slightly taller to clear 37s. What tire/wheel size are you going with?
I might be interested in the dually bed if the floor is good, the floor in my bed is junk.

Where'd you find the back section of the tunnel? I've already got the front bolt in section (well the 2wd manual version which I think is the same minus the transfer case shifter hole) I could easily fab up a full tunnel that'd clear but I'd like to stay with stock 4wd parts.

Sry for all the rambling questions I'm just really digging your build! Lol

[RADustin]

Originally Posted by Devilman

Oh man it looks perfect!! Im leaving mine a dually and love the ride height you have now, maybe slightly taller to clear 37s. What tire/wheel size are you going with?
I might be interested in the dually bed if the floor is good, the floor in my bed is junk.

Where'd you find the back section of the tunnel? I've already got the front bolt in section (well the 2wd manual version which I think is the same minus the transfer case shifter hole) I could easily fab up a full tunnel that'd clear but I'd like to stay with stock 4wd parts.

Sry for all the rambling questions I'm just really digging your build! Lol

my bed is toast. Since you're in Dallas you're very near to Texas Square Bodies. He will have nice beds.

I'm going to run 35x12.50s. The current height is probably an inch or two low. Give or take. I am a little concerned I may be too high. We'll see.

the 2wd high hump is different than the 4wd. you'll need the 4wd bolt in tunnel and a donor cab section. I got my parts from azpartslocator.

see the attached PDF. It shows the different in humps.

[Devilman]

Originally Posted by RADustin

my bed is toast. Since you're in Dallas you're very near to Texas Square Bodies. He will have nice beds.

I'm going to run 35x12.50s. The current height is probably an inch or two low. Give or take. I am a little concerned I may be too high. We'll see.

the 2wd high hump is different than the 4wd. you'll need the 4wd bolt in tunnel and a donor cab section. I got my parts from azpartslocator.

see the attached PDF. It shows the different in humps.

I forget about Texas Square Bodies, I'll holler at him about a bed.
I had thought there was a difference in the tunnels but didn't realize they're that different. Thanks for the pics and I'll check out azpartslocator. Do they have new 4wd crew tunnels or take outs? You know of anyone making a new replacement tunnel or the entire 4wd tunnel front and rear? I've searched but haven't found any.

[jadedbird]

to get the 4x4 tunnel in and effectively convert my 2wd cab to a 4x4 cab, I started by laying the weld in half in and marking around it.


then I offset the marker line with tape to make the cut line. also mapped out the front bolt in half.


cut out the rear half and cleaned the bottom of the lip. This was terrible work. I use weld thru primer on the weld in parts lip and the cab side lip to help prevent rust. I'll also seam seal everything later on.


drilled for plug welds and celco'd in the weld in half from the bottom.


welded in. I perfer to TIG the rosette welds so I can heat everything up, fill, then keep the heat on letting it all flow. Also cut front half. I didn't cut front and back out of cab at once to keep as much material in there at all times.


test fit front bolt in piece.


Then I was able to test fit the cab. It fits perfect. I'm very happy. The ride height is a little low for what it'll be final, but its close. and ofcourse the final tires will be bigger.









Where did you get the back half of the 4x4 tunnel?

I need to make my 2wd floor a 4wd so the transmission will fit.

[buffydores]

So satisfying to see your updates.

[13jraven]

You guys need to check out his Instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/thegr8dustino/

The detail is insane. I am a good welder and can fab and I am speechless.

I am currently working on a 79 K35 CCLB with a LMM/ally/NV271F and found him on IG. My truck is dark carmine (71) & white with a carmine red interior. Came factory with a 6.6 400ci so a 6.6 402ci duramax would be a badass swap.

[RADustin]

Originally Posted by jadedbird

Where did you get the back half of the 4x4 tunnel?

I need to make my 2wd floor a 4wd so the transmission will fit.

not sure if you're still looking but my goto dude for original parts is Jeff; azpartslocator. He's on the board here. He zipped the piece out of a donor and mailed it to me, and I cleaned it up and installed it.

[Low Elco]

Great work! I gotta ask, Do you just have your own warehouse? This thing's gotta be taking up a bunch of room!

[LT7A]

This is phenomenal to watch. I feel like I'm sitting in on a build at some sort of a GM skunkworks.

[Devilman]

Bump for some updates!!

[RADustin]

Originally Posted by LT7A

This is phenomenal to watch. I feel like I'm sitting in on a build at some sort of a GM skunkworks.

probably the coolest words spoken about the truck yet

Wouldn't it be the coolest if GM directly sponsored some of these old truck builds by opening up their old drawing packages and full from the bins of previously design parts? Maybe that's just my dream but I think it'd be sweet.

Originally Posted by Devilman

Bump for some updates!!

yep!

So I lost about a 10 days of any progress ~2 weeks ago. Got randomly really sick, bad vertigo. So no 3D model progress, no nothing. but, been moving along well other than that.

got the bed dropped on. Wheelbase looks good, but bed to body lines are off considerably. Still not exactly sure the problem, I think it's the aftermarket bedsides. Either way, I'll find a way to get everything in tune.











put the rear bumper on to make sure I cut the frame correctly. It isn't adjusted, but the stick out is right from the back of the bed. so that is a good.



downpipe fits well.



so then I switched gears for a bit. I needed some major 3D model progress on the front suspension. Although the axle was hung on the 4 link, that is as far as I went with design. So I ordered up a redhead box, specific for what I'm doing. Ordered a pitman, all the stuff for the rebuild on the front axle, and some other nic-nac to add into the model. I'll make a seperate update on just model stuff.

Box of goodies from Rockauto. They are the best.



So anyways, been back round working on 3D model, while also pushing forward on fab.

The core support has been lingering. I been avoid it to be honest. I knew it was going to be toughest part of my swap. I wanted it to look fairly OEM, use stock LB7 parts, use mechanical fan and OEM LB7 fan shroud. OH and I didn't have any of these 3D models, so everything was going to have to be figured out shop level.

Initial fit up, the cooling stack from the LB7 is much more massive than anything the squares came with. The lower intercooler mounts are basically right on top of the core support mounts, so I knew it'd be fun to figure all this out.



I laid out all of my cuts, and made some of them. I wanted to build the new vertical posts first before I cut the meat out, so I can align everything prior to cutting out the center. Going a full 48" wide of opening.

The new posts will spot weld in like factory. And they wrap around the backside on the opening to give a very finished OEM look.









used my level to ensure everything is on the same plane.



for the outer halves I hammer formed the lip. So made templates and cut lots of MDF. One pattern brought the lip to 90, and another to 135°. So two forms for each side. Also my brake I wanted to use is short, so I had to two each half in halfs. Lots of pieces here.





hammer formed lip follows the contours of the headlight bucket nicely.



once the verticals were tac'd up I braced up the bottom of the support to cut the center.

I machined locators for the stock mounting pickups so I can retain the angle and position. They have a raised face that fits the stock hole tight.





center removed.



to terminate the ends of the new center to the old outers I made some offsets out of 1x2x16ga tube. Very angular to match the shapes well.



The new frame mounts are cups made from 1.5" HREW with plates welded on the bottom. After welding I machined the weld with a little radius so they look nice.



things getting fit up. The spanner tube is again 1x2 and is flush with the outside of the new verticals. This is how the offsets fit.





mounting cups finished out and fitted to jig.



marked crossbar for cuts. cut and fit in mounting cups.









trimed cups, fitting back in place



I welded things in a very specific order to minimize warping the support. So basically I welded in the cups, then straightened the spanner bar, then welded the bar in.



re-fit radiator in place with full shroud. everything looks good except I'll have to shade the radiator to the drivers side to make the fan shroud line up. I completely forgot during my engine mount design that GM offsets the engine to the drivers side about 5/8".





once the refit was done I took tons of measurements and ordered some material to make the upper radiator mounts from. In the meantime I started forming the lower intercooler mounts. They will also brace things considerably.







I'll keep working on these this week until I leave for Talladega. But hopefully the core support will be finished soon.

I'll make another post about the model updates.

[RADustin]

3D model updates.

As I mentioned earlier, the front looks alot more complete than it is. So I set out to get that finished up so I can officially have a roller.

The coil towers where sort of drawn early on, but setup for 8" Kings. I change them for the 10" Foxes. I also added a cross over bar, over the top of the duramax to connect both towers to keep from rolling the frame rails.

The factory Ford panhard mount wasn't going to work, so I removed that and designed my own. I ordered a Reid Racing high steer knuckle for the 2005+ Ford D60. Also steering box from redhead and a jeep TJ pitman. I'll be using GM 1-ton TREs on the drag link and the factory ford tie rod. Using all the dimensions of the selected components, and physicals of the redhead box, I sized the length and position of the TRE on the Reid high steer knuckle. The steer arm bends over to line up much closer to the king pin axis so that the truck will steer the same left as right. The ratios are set so that the steering wheel angle will give similar road wheel angles as the stock LML truck. This is so the ABS system and stabilitrak will work. I will be mounting a steering wheel angle sensor to the column to monitor this.

so anyways, lots of fun design work. challenging to get all the fitments right, keep it looking nice, and making sure it'll function correctly with all the fancy LML electronics.

I did 3D scan the drivers inner fender and steering box. I'll work on cleaning up the inner fender more and get it 'mounted' as close as I can to real so hopefully I can pull some templates out the model when it comes time to cut it up for the coil towers. The steering box was done to ensure fitment.



I'm just starting to finish sorting the rear out. Looking to get the spare tire under the bed [hopefully!] and get a hitch out there. But, the spare tire fitment is VERY tight. The hitch shown is from the LML and just for kicks while I think about it. I'll probably run a class 3/4 hitch and not the 5 that the LML is. I don't really tow heavy bumper pull trailers.

I'll progress this in the coming days. The plan being that the remainder of everything can be cut in one more laser order. Then just small nic-nacs after that my brother can cnc plasma for me.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by RADustin

probably the coolest words spoken about the truck yet

Wouldn't it be the coolest if GM directly sponsored some of these old truck builds by opening up their old drawing packages and pull from the bins of previously design parts? Maybe that's just my dream but I think it'd be sweet.

Could you imagine? My favorite way to think about these trucks is to imagine the parts that would best suit the use of the truck. It would be so fun to have access to all of the lightest, best performance parts, or the most heavy-duty, robust parts, depending on the intended use. I like thinking about using the best that was available for the era and combining it to fit my vision. Your truck is combining the performance and heavy duty parts from several eras and manufacturers. I'm glad you're taking a lot of pictures along the way. Much of the beauty of the design and thought that went into the truck will be hidden once it's assembled.

[Low Elco]

This is gonna be so awesome.

[Palf70Step]

Great looking build! I am looking forward to seeing more on it.

[Dads79GMC]

Wow, again!!!!!!!!!

[Dukagora]

And when I find threads like this, it makes me wonder if I should really stick with my C20, or find a K20 crew cab, before I have a bunch of time and money invested.....

If I found an easy way to convert to 4x4 I would!

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Dukagora

And when I find threads like this, it makes me wonder if I should really stick with my C20, or find a K20 crew cab, before I have a bunch of time and money invested.....

If I found an easy way to convert to 4x4 I would!

You should check out cut bros on facebook. A 4wd bolt on conversion kit exits for 1 tons and crew cabs.

I do agree that just doing a frame swap is the easiest though, if you can find a frame.