The Pig Rig!

[SBTork]

Good thinking for sure, better to fix now then be on a tow truck far from home.

The engine is looking good and nice score on the flat top knuckles!

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by SBTork

Good thinking for sure, better to fix now then be on a tow truck far from home.

The engine is looking good and nice score on the flat top knuckles!

yeah, the idea is that I don't get stuck! lol. Thanks!


not really much to report. I'm hoping to have the engine back in by the end of the weekend. I removed the brackets for the quadshocks, and threw a little paint on the firewall, it looks way better in person, the rough top edge is GM's black seam sealer...

I also did an inspection of the wiring harness, and found a few things that I didn't like...

The PO seemed to think of this as a "Fix",I cut the damage out, crimped a splice, and heat shrunk the affected wires. then I found some abrasion damage on the TPS 5v ref,again, I cut out the damage, and spliced in new wire.

I also found out the motor mounts I bought shortly after buying this truck, are not the right mounts, at all, and of coarse I don't have the boxes or receipts either... DOH. I also have heard plenty of stories of parts store mounts lasting a few weeks before failing, so maybe it's for the better, because I just ordered a set of poly engine and trans mounts.

The EGR solenoid that was on the truck had failed, and been plugged by the previous owner, so I also ordered a new on as well, hopefully it will clear the CEL that was in.

[ericjon262]

I replaced the engine mount inserts. the old mounts fell apart bad. I wanted to use rubber to reduce NVH, but I couldn't find a rubber mount I liked, they all looked like cheap garbage.







The engine is ready to go back in the truck, with the exception of installing the flexplate, it won't fit between the stand and block.










I pulled the steering gearbox, shaft, and pump, in preparation for a frame reinforcement, a box brace, and an XJ steering shaft with U-joints. this part is actually what's holding me back from getting the engine back into the truck. of the four bolts holding the box on, only one was more than finger tight... ! on a more comforting note, I didn't see any cracks in the frame.
















with the exception of the Y pipe, the exhaust is trash, I'll have to throw something together to get it roadworthy.

[ericjon262]

tore down the 3/4 tone front axle to install new ball joints I also threw some paint on it:



the axle seals are inboard for some ungodly reason...




I got the new steering gearbox in, hopefully the box brace and frame support come in tomorrow



I noticed that between my 3 front axles, I have 2 different center links, one, from the 3/4 ton, is a 2 piece unit, the other 2 are three pieces. the 3/4 ton looks a little stronger.



I pulled the axles out of the spare 1/2 ton axle, I'm going to clean them up and keep them on the shelf just in case I break one of the 3/4 ton shafts.

[buffydores]

I'm enjoying your work on this one.

[Offroad Design]

Looking great!

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by Offroad Design

Looking great!

Thanks, I got a box from you guys the other day! I can't wait for the crossover steer kit to get here!

I was going to press in new U joints into my front axle shafts. either I did something very wrong, or that one is stuck good... thankfully I have spare shafts from the axle in the truck, and the axle I picked up a few months ago.



on the subject of U joints, I got the new steering shaft in, it's mostly installed, but will need to be compressed to fit.



New exhaust is reman parts from walker, all look pretty nice, and almost exact bolt on. the tailpipe is missing a hanger bracket though... oh well, I'll get the welder out and fix it in no time flat.






the first of the performance oriented parts arrived, this is a rear shackle flip bracket, from Off road Design. hopefully I'll have a big box on the porch when I get home Tuesday that I can play with.



I bent up some nice stainless trans cooler lines, just to find that my routing plan wouldn't work... DOH. so instead, I ran some -6 hose from the trans to the radiator. I used some russell's adapters to go from the 5/16" inverted flare, to -6 AN.



and the big news, the engine is back in the truck!



I'm almost ready for the first firing, all I have left for a test run to set timing, is to terminate the plug wires, put the exhaust on, add oil, and a battery.






Hopefully, Tuesday afternoon I can get the bulk of the work required to start the engine done, and maybe fire it up Tuesday afternoon/night.

[1976gmc20]

Nice job!

I have a 1991 Suburban sitting around. It runs good but needs some work: steering box, new rear springs, etc.

Somebody suggested I find an entire set of 3/4 ton axles and springs and just "bolt them in." Ha - nothing is ever that simple //wink

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Nice job!

I have a 1991 Suburban sitting around. It runs good but needs some work: steering box, new rear springs, etc.

Somebody suggested I find an entire set of 3/4 ton axles and springs and just "bolt them in." Ha - nothing is ever that simple //wink

I mean, it should be that easy, the springs are the same length, and the front axle is the same up to the knuckles. you'd need a rear driveshaft, and a maybe a master cylinder. the real hard part would be getting the brake lines apart without breaking anything.

[ericjon262]

turns out, I used the wrong fittings on the transmission cooler lines, I used straight hose ends on the transmission, but should have used 45*, with the straight ends, the hoses try and occupy the same space as the Y pipe, thankfully, I have some scrap stainless tubing, that I flared and bent to re-position the lines out of the way. My crossover steer kit came in, as well as my steering box brace. the box brace is installed, and the exhaust is almost done, I didn't get a chance to really work on it today, the weather wasn't exactly cooperating. hopefully tomorrow, I can finish the exhaust and plug wires

the brace is pretty beefy, kinda a PITA to install, I can't imagine trying to do it with the engine accessories on, and the radiator installed.





I also cleaned all the old grease out of the front wheel bearings with plans to repack them and roll, but one of the inners looked kinda meh, and the other looked like dog crap, thankfully, new timken's are only about $10 a piece. the outers looked great, so I'll just repack them and call it good. pro tip, gasoline removes wheel bearing grease like nobody's business.

[ericjon262]

New exhaust is tucked way up there:







Please excuse my really crappy tig welds.



I made some new plug wires, the routing turned out pretty nice, I'll get pictures tomorrow.

and...


IT RUNS AGAIN!

https://youtu.be/aq_Z1dHt8Go

[1976gmc20]

My poor old 91 suburban feels so neglected now ...

[ericjon262]

lol, thats how my project car, and my DD both feel right now!

I pulled the 6 lug front axle out:



Hung new springs:



and got the housing in:






this is when I started to hit a few snags, the tierod is super close to the leaf springs, way too close, especially when you consider the fact that the ball joints and leaf spring U bolts aren't tight yet. the knuckles are pre-1977, which have a top down taper, instead of a bottom up taper.









I started working on the rear brakes. the shoes look great, and there really isn't that much dust, I suspect they have been under utilized, maybe a bad rear brake line not passing fluid?







The fluid in the wheel cylinder was nasty. I'm going to replace them both, they're only about $10 each, so well worth it. for good measure, I'll do the calipers too.

[1976gmc20]

Can you put shims between the axle and springs to get a wee bit more tie rod clearance?

They should both go up and down together though, right? A miss is a good as a mile.

[Offroad Design]

We commonly will use these to get some Tie rod clearance on the nut down knuckles

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Axl...%20Plates.html

Edit:
I think you ended up doing High steer?

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by Offroad Design

We commonly will use these to get some Tie rod clearance on the nut down knuckles

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Axl...%20Plates.html

Edit:
I think you ended up doing High steer?

I did,

We (ORD and myself over email) came up with a couple of solutions for my problem.


one was to use different tierod ends, like these for a 73 K5 blazer

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45A01.../dp/B000C9MGRE

I didn't really like that as much, because the bend looks weak compared to the strait ends.


the next option, was to shim the axle using ORD offset plates like described above

I wasn't sure these would net enough clearance. it's hard to say without the balljoints in the knuckle tight.


another option, was to tighten things down as it, and see exactly where everything lands, which may end up not being so bad, as mentioned, the spring and axle more or less, move the same amount, so a little clearance is all that's needed anyways.


the last option, was to go with a high steer setup, and like the sucker for shiny parts that I am, I ended up ordering the high steer. it should be here this weekend, along with a few other parts/tools I've needed to get this hulk moving again.


on another note, the rear drums were able to be turned! that saves me a little over $100, which all went to getting new wheel cylinders, and calipers. hopefully, by the end of the weekend, I'll have the front wheels on it and my neighbors can quit giving me "the look" lol!

[ericjon262]

The ball joints are tight, and the new axles are home. I need to install the spindles still, but I wanted to wait until after I get the high steer kit so I can start putting the front brakes on in one go. I installed new shoes in the left rear drum, (stock drums were turned) and I think I found out another reason why the rear brakes looked so clean and unused, the adjuster was frozen solid and almost completely compressed. I pulled it apart, cleaned it, and lubed it(anti seize). I'll do the right side on Friday.

[SBTork]

Awesome progress man!

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by SBTork

Awesome progress man!

Thanks, I'm hoping to have it on four wheels again tomorrow afternoon. I still need a few parts for the steering that won't be here until sometime Monday though...

shoes and rear brakes are done, with the exception of adjusting.



I went ahead and started installing the brakes, the spindles, and backing plates went on without issue, but one of the wheel bearing seals kept not wanting to go in straight. I also picked up new lockout hubs, I was going to just keep the stock auto lockers, even though they're made of glass, but when I started cleaning them up for install, I realized one of them was already broken...



new calipers and shocks installed:



Radiator, condenser, and all accessories are installed, the belts are tight.



Trans cooler lines worked out nicely.



this is how I lubricate drum brake adjusters:



start by cleaning the adjuster with a wire brush and brake clean



Apply lube



wipe excess off after threading the body all the way on.





here's the nose and washer.



lube the wheel with a thin coat of lube.



install the washer



pack the nose with lube



twist it onto the body, and be sure to wipe the excess off afterwards.

[1976gmc20]

I was going to just keep the stock auto lockers

Those things are worthless!

One time we were up camping in the mountains with the family and the camper trailer. Went up an logging road to a high mountain meadow. I was trying to back the trailer up a little hill between the trees so I put the Suburban in low range. The rear wheels kept spinning on the grass. I had to keep pulling forward and finally got the hubs to sorta kinda engage so we could get parked.

Came back to town the next week and ordered a pair of Warn hubs. I still have the factory hubs just in case I was ever to sell/trade for another GM 4wd, and put them back on and keep the Warn hubs. Probably at this point I would just sell it intact.

[68Timber]

Love the detail on the adjusters. Nice work.

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Those things are worthless!

One time we were up camping in the mountains with the family and the camper trailer. Went up an logging road to a high mountain meadow. I was trying to back the trailer up a little hill between the trees so I put the Suburban in low range. The rear wheels kept spinning on the grass. I had to keep pulling forward and finally got the hubs to sorta kinda engage so we could get parked.

Came back to town the next week and ordered a pair of Warn hubs. I still have the factory hubs just in case I was ever to sell/trade for another GM 4wd, and put them back on and keep the Warn hubs. Probably at this point I would just sell it intact.

yeah, I was just trying to be cheap when I was going to keep them, but when I saw damage, I knew I'd be a fool to keep them.

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Love the detail on the adjusters. Nice work.

Thanks, hopefully they hold up like that. my biggest concern is dust contamination, which hopefully has been minimized by the minimal exposed grease. they only have to last long enough for me to design adapters for late model front brakes, and find a late model 14 bolt FF with disc brakes.

[ericjon262]

stock spring hanger



hanger removed. an air hammer made this much easier. for the ORD brackets, the original holes have to be drilled to 7/16". doing this with the gas tank in on a suburban, is almost impossible on the driver's side due to clearance issues with the spare tire well. I partially dropped the tank, and used a right angle drill adapter from lowes to get the holes made.



My jack didn't go high enough for me to snake the axle out with the wheels and tires still on, so I improvised and used the cheery picker.



stock Vs. flip









on four wheels!



Unfortunately, ORD forgot the rod ends(they're on the way) when they shipped my high steer kit, and there's no rear driveshaft (being shortened), so it doesn't move yet.



I was making fast progress on the list, but I had to add to it... I think the oil pressure switch on the rear chinawall by the distributor failed. it's hard to see back there to be sure though.

[ericjon262]

I was able to confirm that the oil leak was from the chinawall oil pressure port, although, it wasn't from the switch, it was from the fittings. then the original one broke, I had to put a few fittings together to make it fit, and the leak was from one of the intermediate fittings. I was able to get it back together, but I haven't had a chance to re-test it yet.

I got all the brake lines tight, but I still need to bleed them, and adjust the rear shoes, I plan to try and get that done this weekend.

The only other snafu is the parking brake cable. in current form, it's about 2" too short, I have a few plans of how to handle that, the fastest solution I think I have, it to weld up a longer parking brake cable connector to make up the difference. it shouldn't be too hard.

[ericjon262]

oil leak is fixed, and the rod ends for the high steer setup came in! I threw it all together and did a very quick and dirty "alignment" with a tape measure and calibrated eyeball in the driveway. looks close enough to get me down the road where I can have a real alignment done. I also shot timing again, it was way off, I estimate it was somewhere around 20 degrees AFTER top dead center... I'm surprised it ran so well... it was really sluggish though. I bumped the timing up to about 5 degrees BTDC, as you might guess, it runs much better now, way more responsive, and much quieter/smoother.

all that progress, just to hit another snag. I tightened up all the brake lines, dumped fluid in, and can't seem to get anything out of the rear circuit. I am getting fluid from both ports in the master, so I'm thinking the porportioning valve may have failed somehow. I'll do more troubleshooting in the morning, hopefully it's something simple.

other than the brakes, the only thing preventing a test drive, is the rear driveshaft, which I'm hoping is done tomorrow, so I can get it back together.