55.2-59 Carrier shims

[Accelo]

He listed the shim thickness.
"Under the pinion bearing there was a .030 shim"

[Chevy nutcase]

Looks like I should have asked for tips on rebuilding my diff in this section.

[popeyestruck]

OK I need .030 and now have .018 and .012 so I'm good to go. I' m going to grind the inside of the old bearing and use that as a driver. Should be just setting up preloads is all thats left. I'm sure I'll have some questions

[popeyestruck]

Got all the bearings and races in except for the pinion bearing race on the driveshaft side of the yoke. Bought a kit through yukon and everything fit fine except for this the race is .100 too big and the inside of the bearing is too small to go on the pinion shaft. The bearing I took off has 200267 on it and the race 200257. Cant find these part numbers anywhere. Does anyone have the timkin #'s for a replacement or a source?

[dsraven]

Have you tried an online bearing number interchange or called a local bearing g supply or auto parts store?

[dsraven]

Also known as a cross reference

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Have you tried an online bearing number interchange or called a local bearing g supply or auto parts store?

Yes Ive been to 2 auto parts stores and tried online - no luck. The part that yukon shipped was bearing hm89443 and race hm89410 but they don't fit. Ive tried looking up pinion bearing for a 59 chevy truck and I'm getting nowhere with that. I figured maybe someone on her knew what works

[Accelo]

This is a cross-listed part manufactured by Timken, Duralast, or Acdelco - providing compatible interchange with the HYATT 200267Z.
Timken Part Number: HM88510

Hyatt was GM bearing division and was shuttled/sold years ago. That's why you are having issues. Possibly with the one part number a bearing house could find the other half you need if you include shaft/bore sizes. The tapered rollers are designed in a common pair. I.E the the rollers and race are the same for a series. Then the shaft and bore sizes vary within that series.

Tapered Roller bearing were first designed here in the USA. So the early bearings, were for the most part, only available in English sizes. Possible to get retribution for the Germans only supplying the ball bearings in metric sizes?
Of course currently ball bearing are available in English sizes as are tapered rollers available in metric. However the typically cost more than the native sized bearing.

A couple of links to try;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124255816396

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40233007714...3ABFBMptzu1_hg

[popeyestruck]

Thanks thats a good start.

[dsraven]

if you cant find a cross referenced bearing number then you may need to measure the pinion shaft and the bore size in the housing or at least the outside of the bearing that goes into the bore. then the width of the bearing. then go online or call a bearing supply house and see what you can come up with.

[dsraven]

have you tried rock auto?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ng+/+race,2264

[Accelo]

I did find this on Rock Auto;
Differential Pinion set up bearings; 1 Bearing; Fits HM89449 Pinion Bearing
Easily slips on and off carrier journals to allow for easier carrier shim adjustment.
USA STANDARD GEAR USA56044 $98.79.

That's a first for me. I have always ground the center of the bearing. Cost is high but most do not have the equipment to do this job. Definitely a cool option.

Lots of axle options on the Rock Auto site:
GMC H033 Axle
GMC H035 Axle
Dana 35
8.5 IN Ring Gear; with Spicer 45 Axle

It does look promising. Especially if you know which axle you have. Measuring the ID of the ring gear will possibly eliminate some options?

[dsraven]

I usually use fine Emery cloth on the journals where the bearings press on then test the bearing fir fit. If it is looking like a tight fit I have used a brake cyl hone on the inside of the bearing to get a fit that is tight enough to hold the bearing in place but loose enough to allow easy bearing removal without damage. Goes without saying to thoroughly clean bearing after. If you hone too much use loctite or something like quick metal epoxy after you get the gears set up and are done putting bearing on and off.

[Accelo]

To clarify my comment, it was in reference to using "set up bearings." Then replacing the "set up bearings" with the standard bearings for the final install.
Having replaced too many differential pinion bearings, because they lost the fit on the pinion shaft, I really can't recommend removing any interference fit(s) from these parts.
The engineers knew what they were doing. However, I recognize everyone's right to do what they have to with the tools and resources to complete the job.
Cheers

[popeyestruck]

Found the race and bearing thanks for everyones help

[popeyestruck]

Got it done

[Accelo]

It is no small job getting through a differential rebuild and I commend you on your tenacity.
Your patterns (drive and coasting) seems to be at the heal and the toe. Not centered, it may make more noise than you prefer.

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by Accelo

It is no small job getting through a differential rebuild and I commend you on your tenacity.
Your patterns (drive and coasting) seems to be at the heal and the toe. Not centered, it may make more noise than you prefer.

It show this as acceptable in the yukon directions

[dsraven]

have you got a close up of the contact patterns? seems to be like accelo is pointing out. it may be acceptable but will likely be noisy. maybe just the pic?

[dsraven]

https://www.alloyusa.com/gear-patterns

[popeyestruck]

Just going by what yukon said in the instructions

[popeyestruck]

Better picture

[1project2many]

I started my automotive career in a shop that rebuilt axles and manual transmissions over 30 years ago. I still enjoy rebuilding gearboxes. I just helped a friend with a Chrysler 9.25" axle two days ago. There are some things I have learned that I find very helpful.

Ring and pinion installation is not hard. The best results are obtained if you can pay attention to details. Folks who enjoy crossing the t's and dotting the i's generally do well with R&P installs, imo.

You can not get a rear axle housing too clean. It is impossible. You will find bits of metal in low areas, stuck to rough sections, hiding near welded areas. Clean, clean, clean before moving on to reassembly.

The correct ring and pinion setup is often obtained by trial and error. As mentioned, be prepared to remove the pinion more than once.

Be certain the bearing races are installed fully and are seated properly. I've been called in to help folks that are not experienced driving in bearing races and once in a while I've found the bearings aren't installed properly.

It can be well worth the money and effort to create a "setup bearing" for the inner pinion bearing. Hone the inside of a second bearing until the bearing can be installed and removed with very little effort. If you re-use the original shim and it turns out you need to change it, you're forced to remove your brand new bearing which may or may not be successful. The setup bearing method ensures you don't waste a good bearing. Word of caution: It takes a *while* to hone the pinion bearing enough.

Install the pinion shim, both pinion bearings, yoke, washer, and pinion nut for setup. You don't need to install the crush sleeve during setup. It is not necessary to obtain correct pinion bearing preload during setup. "Some" is acceptable. You don't need to install the pinion seal during setup. It only gets in the way. These steps should be done at the beginning of final assembly, with the carrier removed.

Make sure to use the pattern images that come with your ring and pinion when setting up your gears. Today there are two different methods commonly used for gear manufacturing. Each process creates a different tooth shape and shows a different pattern if the gears are not set up correctly. Using instructions for the wrong pattern can lead to wasted time and much frustration. If you want to learn more about face-cut and face-hobbed gears, there's some good introductory information beginning about halfway down the page at this site: https://www.transmissiondigest.com/p...-pinion-gears/

Be sure to check your ring gear bolts for left hand thread before attempting removal. If the ring gear does not fall off the carrier once the bolts are removed, use brass or bronze tools to tap the gear. No steel! Clean the carrier of grease then use a file laying flat on the ring gear surface to knock down any metal burrs or ridges before installing . I believe there are pictures in the 55 truck service manual to help illustrate this. It's very important to ensure the ring gear sits on the carrier correctly. The ring gear most likely will need to be pulled onto the carrier with ring gear bolts. Make sure to tighten the bolts evenly so as not to raise a burr under the gear. After the gear is pulled to the carrier, remove each ring gear bolt, apply loc-tite, and reinstall for final torquing.

As mentioned, threaded sleeves at the carrier bearings make installation much easier. Install pinion for a test fit, adjust the sleeves so there is some carrier preload, then check backlash. Once backlash is within specification, apply grease or marking compound to the gears and check the pattern. I check pattern by putting a wrench on the ring gear bolt to turn the carrier. I use a rag looped over the pinion yoke to provide resistance. This helps the pattern show more clearly in the marking compound. Check your pattern against your pictures and if necessary remove the pinion and change the shim. Once the gears are set up and the pattern is correct, I only loosen the threaded sleeve on the ring gear side of the carrier. This allows the ring gear to move away from the pinon slightly making it a bit easier imo to remove / reinstall the carrier during final assembly.

I do use an impact wrench to crush the crush sleeve. It's tricky. The amount of torque required to turn the pinion nut increases as you start to crush the sleeve then quickly decreases after the sleeve begins distorting. Near the end of the process there are a bunch of checks for pinion rotating drag combined with a bunch of lightning-quick impact trigger pulls. All of this is done while watching the socket to see how much it turns. The pinion holding tool and the long wrench plus bar make it far easier to control how much the sleeve is crushed. For a first-timer flying solo, using these tools might be the best approach.

Also, I have a different method for removing a lower pinion bearing when there's no press available. After removing the cage and rollers I use a cut-off wheel to cut a groove diagonally in the bearing, stopping very close to the pinion. Then I lightly drive a chisel into the groove. The race will split along the groove. It can then be removed by tapping it with hammer and chisel. The same method applies for carrier bearings as long as you can make the cut without damaging the carrier.

I have never heated / cooled pinion or pinion bearing to install new parts. It sounds very effective, though. I generally find a pipe that's close to bearing inner race diameter to use as a driver. In some cases I have used a long punch to tap the bearing into place, but this risks damaging the bearing.

There's bunch of smart folks here to help out if anything doesn't seem like its going correctly.

Edit: Well, I completely missed that there was a second page. I'm leaving this here in case someone else finds it useful.