power steering conversion kit

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

This is a bolt in unit. The hardest thing to do will probably be hooking up the steering column. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...gaAtlAEALw_wcB

This is the kit from POL https://www.performanceonline.com/19...caAjPMEALw_wcB

Need to ask some questions on that one from Summit. The picture shows a complete kit with pump, hoses, etc.

But the product note says, "Rack and pinion with mounting bracket and hardware only."

Edit - The kit from Summit is from Unisteer. Unisteer does not list that part number on their site. Summit is using the complete kit picture from the following kit, but with the small footnote about rack and bracket only. The complete Unisteer kit does look like a nice package, but it's about $400 more than building a similar package from Performance Online and others.

https://www.unisteer.com/collections...ack-pinion-kit

[bigmoe]

Not to preach but I don't generally buy "kits". Those who sell kits have usually just gathered up the separate components, marked it up and called it a kit. If you can figure what individual parts you need you'll be farther ahead to do it that way. Fortunately, with the internet and forums like this, others have already figured it out for you.

[jibs]

Anyone have one of these Volvo pumps that you can get the dimensions for me? Thanks

[61hawk]

Originally Posted by jibs

Anyone have one of these Volvo pumps that you can get the dimensions for me? Thanks

The factory mounting bracket is 8.5"x8.5".11". The actual pump is 11" tall. Mine has the remote fill tube, so you can make that as long as you need. The actual pump is 11" tall.

[Arne]

Other thoughts on "kits" - sometimes the kit may be discounted over the parts when purchased separately, rather than being marked up. But one should never assume that the kit is a better buy, always do the math and compare.

Another issue is that you need to be careful to make sure that the kit is actually suited to what you need. Case in point - the Unisteer full rack & pinion kit linked on the last page appears to have everything needed. But after checking with them, this kit as packaged only works for short water pump applications. Won't fit trucks like mine with later engine swaps. But the description on the web page does NOT mention that fact. So due diligence is still required.

[Arne]

FWIW - I've started to install the Performance Online rack & pinion kit on my '64 C10. There are a couple of caveats that people should know before buying it. While the rack and its bracket fits very well to the frame, the lower steering shaft U-joint won't clear standard Saginaw steering pumps. So something other than the normal choice is necessary. (I think I will be going with the Volvo electric pump in mine.)

Also, while I think the web description mentions steering column mods may be needed, it doesn't give any details. And neither do the instructions that come with the kit, as they seem to be a copy/paste of the 67-72 instructions. The original column needs to be cut off near the firewall, and the ¾" round shaft must be modified (ground flat on 2 sides) to convert it to a ¾" DD so that the U-joint can be fitted.

It's still a pretty good package, but it would have been nice to know the above up front.

[Arne]

Interesting. Does the steering shaft actually go through a hole in the top of the frame rail? That's a bit different.

[Cris]

Arne:

Yes, you bore a hole (really a slot) in the top flange of the frame rail (as you see in the photo) to pass the steering shaft through. Underneath that slot sits a bearing to support the shaft.

There are five holes that get drilled in the cross member to mount the rack, and that's about the extent of hacking on the frame.

I cut the stock steering tube as close to the fire wall as I could to keep the steering shaft angles to a minimum. I relocated the lower steering column bearing further up on the shortened column. The rest of the column stayed stock.

[Arne]

Nice. I like the shallow shaft angles.

Now that I have my POL kit mounted, I'm pretty certain I've got it all sussed out. The kit bolts up to the frame with no drilling at all, the bracket mounts to the existing frame holes for the idler arm and steering box.

But clearance at the lower shaft u-joint does not allow use of a normal Saginaw-style pump. You either need to use a later Type-2 pump with remote reservoir or go with an electric pump. (I'm going electric.) And I will need to make a small relief cut in the top of the frame rail for shaft clearance, and maybe trim the inner fender a bit.

[Arne]

The mechanical part of my conversion is now complete. Just waiting on the electric pump now.

[Cris]

Arne:

Let us know how it drives and how the electric pump works out. Good for the archives!

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Arne

The mechanical part of my conversion is now complete. Just waiting on the electric pump now.

Sure looks great so far. Make sure you post pics of the u-joints installed with the reliefs. One of the reasons I didnt go R+P was the hole in the frame where my VIN was.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Sure looks great so far. Make sure you post pics of the u-joints installed with the reliefs. One of the reasons I didnt go R+P was the hole in the frame where my VIN was.

The reliefs are both done in the last picture. The one in the top of the rail is almost invisible, a small half moon about 5/16" deep. That is the only frame mod the POL kit requires, and it might not need that on all trucks—with a really short aftermarket column the shaft would probably clear the frame. It was a near thing on mine with the stock column.

Frankly, POL's claim of "no chassis/frame mods" was one of the reasons I selected this kit.

Here's some closeups of the two reliefs.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Arne

The mechanical part of my conversion is now complete. Just waiting on the electric pump now.

Something happened to the picture I attached above. Trying again.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Arne

Something happened to the picture I attached above. Trying again.

Attachment 2255253

Arne, Great job! I went and looked at mine and you are correct. I can do just as you did to get it to work and just may do that. Less issue with the header if removal is needed.
I am working to get my 1940 coupe going for shows this year, but after that i am back at the truck. Great job though!! Thanks for input too!!!

[Arne]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Arne, Great job! I went and looked at mine and you are correct. I can do just as you did to get it to work and just may do that. Less issue with the header if removal is needed.
I am working to get my 1940 coupe going for shows this year, but after that i am back at the truck. Great job though!! Thanks for input too!!!

Well, bear in mind that I believe that the possible need for a third U-joint on my truck was a very near thing. And depending on steering column choices, and variations and tolerances in cab mounts, what worked for me might not be good enough for all trucks.

[The Rocknrod]

Yep that's a s good as I've seen on these units. Well done.

[Arne]

Another update - After slicing and dicing the original Volvo brackets to suit my preferred location, the electric pump is mounted. One new 5/16" hole in the frame rail was required. Plenty of room, no clearance issues at all. The pump sits on its 3 original rubber mounts, and the brackets and the mount cradle are solid.

I will start figuring out the plumbing tomorrow. I'd like to use the hoses I got from POL if I can. The return line should be no problem, but the pressure line may be a little too long. I need to get a M16x1.5 banjo fitting to adapt to the female -6 AN end of the pressure hose, will be looking to get one of those locally if possible.

Once the hoses have been figured out, I will fill the reservoir, and then wire the pump. Three wires, very simple.

Last, after spinning it lock-to-lock many times during the test fitting, I've come to the conclusion that I probably do need a third u-joint and a support bearing for the steering shaft. There is just a touch of rhythmic binding when spinning the wheel back and forth. I suspect the upper u-joint angle is a touch too acute. So I either need an additional u-joint, or a different joint with greater range of motion. I'll be looking into this soon.

[61hawk]

Exactly where did you mount this on the truck?

[Arne]

Originally Posted by 61hawk

Exactly where did you mount this on the truck?

Inside the LF fender.

[Arne]

I took the truck on a short shakedown drive today, and I can confirm that the electric pump is a totally viable option. It has an audible whine, but you can't hear it from the cab when the engine is running, even at idle with the window open. The fixed 70% boost that the pump provides when not computer controlled is just about right. Easy to turn those big 275/60 tires when going slow, but not over-boosted at normal road speeds. Building the custom mount was the most difficult part, but really not that bad. The plumbing and wiring are relatively simple.

I'm planning to write up a more comprehensive review of the rack & pinion kit + electric pump (with DIY notes) soon. Watch for a separate thread here.

[61hawk]

Do you have a picture of the steering pump in the wheel well with the wheel on? I'm just wanting to see how protected it is from the tire. I've seen it put there in other vehicles, but wanted to see how it looked in one of these trucks.

[Arne]

Easy to do. I didn't have any shots with the tire in place. But even to take one at full lock, I don't even have to start the engine. Just switch on the ignition, wait a couple of seconds for the pump to engage and turn the wheel.

The pump sits well inboard of the tire, right next to the frame rail.

Here's a shot through the fender opening, wheels straight.



Same as above, but wheels at full right lock.



From the front and below, wheels straight.



And with the wheels at full right lock. The spot circled is the closest, but not as close as it looks. There is at least 1½" clearance at that spot, and that is with big 275/60 tires.

[Arne]

A comment in my build thread asked if I thought this location would work with a square body steering box conversion.

If I understand where the square body box mounts, I think this spot would be problematic. One may be able to move it outboard some, depending on what tires and wheels were being used. (Mine, being 275/60 on 15x8 up front are about as large as most people will have.) Also, building my mount brackets leveraging the original Volvo bracket as I did makes the package a bit larger than it would have to be.

But you could mount it on the other side, inside the right fender easily, if you didn't mind running the hoses across under the radiator. Or behind the cab, or wherever.