S10 Swap how to

[Clay54]

Here is the link to 62chevyll's build which outlines what joedoh mentioned. Clay

http://www.killbillet.com/showthread...-(step-by-step)

[joedoh]

thanks clay! I use his bed floor trick too!

62chevy also lives in wichita, and is also named russ. the co-inky-dinks abound

[ClevsChev]

Sorry, I didnt read through all these pages to find the answer but.. If i made my rear mount higher on a 53 cab could I just bolt straight through instead of using the shackle mount the 53 came with?

The previous owner cut them off taking the cab off and the cheapest replacement i have found was 219$ for new rear mounts.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by ClevsChev

Sorry, I didnt read through all these pages to find the answer but.. If i made my rear mount higher on a 53 cab could I just bolt straight through instead of using the shackle mount the 53 came with?

The previous owner cut them off taking the cab off and the cheapest replacement i have found was 219$ for new rear mounts.

its literally the third post in this thread, there is a pdf of mount dimensions and what to do about completely replacing the shackle mounts on the 51-54 cabs. I am not sure this thread even talks about keeping the shackle mounts, so you should be good!

[sscjwl]

[QUOTE=skymangs;6723893]I've been asked lots of questions about how I get these S10 swaps done so quickly, and how to do "x" or "y"... I want to start this thread detailing as much as I can on the nuts and bolts of S10 frame swaps, parts lists, pics, and any other frequently asked questions out there. To start this off, there are basically three options I see as easily attainable for an S10 frame swap. Keep the stock 4.3L, go small block, or go LS1. I will start off with small block parts, as these are by far the most popular conversion.

What you'll need:
-47-54 Chevy pickup with bed, fenders, hood, core support
-S10 chassis (117" w.b. long bed short cab) If you can, score the brake pedal, master/booster assembly and power steering box.
-Engine/trans combo of choice

I am starting to part out my 2003 s10, but I was wonderful my if there is anything else I should hang onto for my 50 Chevy swap. A/c components? Power brake stuff? 4l60e tranny? Wiring harnesses? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks,
Jon

[skymangs]

[quote=sscjwl;7875871]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I've been asked lots of questions about how I get these S10 swaps done so quickly, and how to do "x" or "y"... I want to start this thread detailing as much as I can on the nuts and bolts of S10 frame swaps, parts lists, pics, and any other frequently asked questions out there. To start this off, there are basically three options I see as easily attainable for an S10 frame swap. Keep the stock 4.3L, go small block, or go LS1. I will start off with small block parts, as these are by far the most popular conversion.

What you'll need:
-47-54 Chevy pickup with bed, fenders, hood, core support
-S10 chassis (117" w.b. long bed short cab) If you can, score the brake pedal, master/booster assembly and power steering box.
-Engine/trans combo of choice

I am starting to part out my 2003 s10, but I was wonderful my if there is anything else I should hang onto for my 50 Chevy swap. A/c components? Power brake stuff? 4l60e tranny? Wiring harnesses? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks,
Jon

is it a 4.3, if so save all the brake stuff and the trans

[sscjwl]

[QUOTE=skymangs;7876005]

Originally Posted by sscjwl

is it a 4.3, if so save all the brake stuff and the trans

Only a 2.2. Wont the tranny work for a 350 though?
Posted via Mobile Device

[skymangs]

nope bellhousng's to small

[ClevsChev]

I might have missed it, but what did you use for bushings on your motor mounts?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by ClevsChev

I might have missed it, but what did you use for bushings on your motor mounts?

you did, i use 85 camaro mounts

[ClevsChev]

Sorry, I meant the part you fabricated, did you just bolt it through the 1" tube or did you use any bushing or rubber in the pipe? Im just curious and trying to get all the info I can before I start mine. Very new to custom motor mounts.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by ClevsChev

Sorry, I meant the part you fabricated, did you just bolt it through the 1" tube or did you use any bushing or rubber in the pipe? Im just curious and trying to get all the info I can before I start mine. Very new to custom motor mounts.

nope, just bolt it through the tube. the shock is absorbed through the motor mounts

[joedoh]

hey here is a front shock tip for all the S10 frame guys. I was looking online at S10 specific drop shocks and one major site had an application guide showing they could be used on S10s dropped 3-5" (3" coil and 2 inch spindle), a dodge dakota dropped 3" (coils) and a 72-84 Mazda B2000 as OEM replacement. working backwards, that means that the stock shock for a 72-84 mazda truck is the right length for a 3" coil dropped S10.

I looked up shocks for the 79-84 mazda and Monroe, Gabriel, and KYB all make twin tube large bore gas charged shocks ranging in price from $20 each to $45 ea, which even the most expensive is $10 cheaper per shock than the more common brand name and they are almost all available in town (my town is medium size). I looked at two, a twin tube gabriel pro for $24ea and a monotube gabriel for $45ea. monotubes are lightyears better for handling on relatively smooth surfaces, twin tubes make more sense if the ride can get rougher, because monotubes have a separate gas chamber and dont fade, but twin tubes mix the gas and oil and on a particularly rough road will "skip" some of the bumps, saving you from constant rebound chatter.

anyway, I picked up a set of the pro Gabriels (part number 61504, reg $25ea and on sale $20ea) and installed them on my S10 framed truck with 3" coils, they fit well, and have excellent damping. I pulled them out to make sure they werent bottoming out and the dirt wipe mark on the shock shaft was still a couple inches shy of bottom.

the other ones I looked at were gabriel maxcontrol 77421 which are the monotube.

[99 to Life]

nice info. I'll have to dig up the ones I used on my bagged setup. Im actually doing another one soon, so I'll need to get some shocks again. I'll look into yours also. I know I used monroes but don't have the number on hand.

[1952ssr]

Wanted to put this info out there for all S10 swappers if someone hasn't already. If you are having issues with getting your trucks aligned here is the cheapest fix. My truck has 1" coils and 2" spindles, but I couldn't get the caster right using the Longacre racing bubble type tool (my truck tucks to much front wheel to use the standard alignment machines). These a-arms from speedway.com will fix you fellers up, order 2 right sides just flip for use on the left side.

part #91031133
$44.99 each

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 1952ssr

Wanted to put this info out there for all S10 swappers if someone hasn't already. If you are having issues with getting your trucks aligned here is the cheapest fix. My truck has 1" coils and 2" spindles, but I couldn't get the caster right using the Longacre racing bubble type tool (my truck tucks to much front wheel to use the standard alignment machines). These a-arms from speedway.com will fix you fellers up, order 2 right sides just flip for use on the left side.

part #91031133
$44.99 each

So, why do these fix the problem?

As far as the to much tuck for the alignment machine...99 posted this photo of his truck getting aligned. These must be a new style alignment head which should get around the wheel tuck problem.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=294

[joedoh]

yep, thats what I use.

[Atommik]

Thanks, hope to get to it tomorrow!

[Mains52]

Have any of you with ls swaps used the stock ls mounts and welded them to the s10 frame. I have an 02 5.3 out of a Tahoe and it came with the motor mounts on it couldn't I just weld them to the frame? Sorry if it is a dumb question.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Mains52

Have any of you with ls swaps used the stock ls mounts and welded them to the s10 frame. I have an 02 5.3 out of a Tahoe and it came with the motor mounts on it couldn't I just weld them to the frame? Sorry if it is a dumb question.

the tahoe mounts will probably make the motor sit too high in the s10 chassis. which isnt really a big deal except the trans/driveshaft tunnel you would need. plenty of room for exhaust and accessories though

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the tahoe mounts will probably make the motor sit too high in the s10 chassis. which isnt really a big deal except the trans/driveshaft tunnel you would need. plenty of room for exhaust and accessories though

Well I have already cut a spot for a tunnel due to a lot of project threads telling me I needed to so that should be fine. I am just trying to get everything buttoned up so I can start finishing the frame work and get this thing closer to the road its driving me nuts. I just want to drive it.

Thank all of you for the help.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by Mains52

Have any of you with ls swaps used the stock ls mounts and welded them to the s10 frame. I have an 02 5.3 out of a Tahoe and it came with the motor mounts on it couldn't I just weld them to the frame? Sorry if it is a dumb question.

I had the mounts on my 5.3 too, but I couldn't find a good way to make them work. Especially with where they landed in relation to the front cross member.

I ended up going with these and cutting most of the frame side off. Also, it's definitely been mentioned here, but offsetting slightly to the passenger's side will make the steering much easier to set up. And I was able to use my stock manifolds this way too.

[99 to Life]

here is what I did. though not used on s10 frame, same concept. If you have your full engine mount you can use the part that bolts to the engine like I did, or.... just make a whole new one from scratch. I had to weld a plate on the back side of the mount that bolts to the engine. You can see in pic. I then ordered 4 link bushings from thorbros off ebay. 30$ invested or so. I used 2.5" tubing I believe for my uprights. So for a lil time and very little money you can make them to whatever size you'd need.

You gotta a few options as far as mounts go and the height you desire to put the engine. I mounted mine higher to have better header clearance and oil pan clearance. So if you mount your LS low, you will most likely need to invest in the proper oil pan, costing more money. If you go higher, you'll have more work in a larger tunnel and possibly tunneling the cab for driveshaft.

[99 to Life]

gotta be patient man, don't worry about what others are telling you to do. Don't tunnel unless you have to, or set your body on and engine and trans in, see your clearance. This stuff takes time and can get frustrating. but things like body mounts engine mounts, getting body lined up on frame, ride height etc. its really more in the builder doing it and seeing for themselves that it is what you want. There isn't a rule book to follow on most of it. This is a great site for info.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

gotta be patient man, don't worry about what others are telling you to do. Don't tunnel unless you have to, or set your body on and engine and trans in, see your clearance. This stuff takes time and can get frustrating. but things like body mounts engine mounts, getting body lined up on frame, ride height etc. its really more in the builder doing it and seeing for themselves that it is what you want. There isn't a rule book to follow on most of it. This is a great site for info.

Right on thanks man. I haven't even had the truck a year yet. I am guilty of being impatient most of the time. I actually am taking this project slow but the dreams of driving it just get me more and more pumped on even building it. I am trying to take pics and add them to my build thread to. I think keeping my truck the long bed 3600 is sort of few and far between on here so I think its helping set it apart.
Thanks Again