"Elwood" the 77_remix

[N2TRUX]

Chris and I mocked up the dash pad to ensure everything fit before we dyed it. Once we added the clips from the old pad, it fit in to place nicely. We had to do some minor trimming inside the opening around the bezel area and make screw holes for the center section. This allowed us to fit the pad precisely to my dash.

[N2TRUX]

Once we were comfortable with the fit, the new pad was thoroughly cleaned to remove the release agent and prepped for dye. After confirming the pad was completely clean, I sprayed a couple of light coats of Bulldog adhesion promoter. This was followed by several light coats of SEM dye that was custom mixed to match my seat vinyl. I redyed some of the plastic trim that had become scratched up from the in and out process of removing the old and new pad several times.

[N2TRUX]

While inside the cab, I decided something should be done with the seat belts. The 77 belts were unique by having a second retractor mounted behind the seat. This conflicted with my plans to have a speaker box behind the seat. That combined with the original seat belts were faded set me searching for an alternative.

I located a set of 76 belts that had good buckles, but bad webbing. The retractors needed some attention but they fit with only one hole drilled. We mocked them up to determine viability then tore them down for restoration.

[N2TRUX]

I picked the best buckles from two different sets. I soaked them in a buckets of water with cleaner to remove old lubricant and dirt from the retractors. Once cleaned and dried, I lubricated the retractors to get them working smoothly.

I cleaned and prepped the buckles, and retractor covers, then sprayed them to match the rest of the interior.

[cruizin01]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I sprayed a couple of light coats of Bulldog adhesion promoter. This was followed by several light coats of SEM dye that was custom mixed to match my seat vinyl. I redyed some of the plastic trim that had become scratched up from the in and out process of removing the old and new pad several times.

Any reason you didn't use the SEM vinyl prep on the dash? I found the coating adheres VERY well with it when used on the dash, sunvisors etc.

I did use the adhesion promotor on the other PP plastic trims but found the coating wasn't nearly as robust compared to the vinyl. I think its just the nature of the type of plastics and the way the dye adheres. The coating adhered better to plastics that could utilize the Sand Free prep that was designed for ABS plastics, etc. Just my experience.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by cruizin01

Any reason you didn't use the SEM vinyl prep on the dash? I found the coating adheres VERY well with it when used on the dash, sunvisors etc....

I have always used the Bulldog brand adhesion promoter. I believe it was n2billet that first told me about it, and I have used it every since. I know it offers great adhesion on pliable vinyl. There are times when its the bond with hard plastics isnt a secure as i would like though.

The lest can of Bulldog I bought had gone up significantly in price, so I may explore the SEM brand promoters.

[N2TRUX]

Once I had the dye work done, I took the seat belts to Jaime at Cypress Auto Interiors to have the webbing replaced. The colors of webbing available are limited, but he anaged to find one that ties in with the rest of the interior.

[N2TRUX]

Switching topics momentarily, I have never liked the looks of the wrinkled up map pockets on the 77-80 doors. I tried replacing them with the 81-87 style, but they are much smaller. Since the holes are already in the door panel, I couldn't just leave them off.

While I was working with Jaime I had an epiphany. I had him make map pockets using the 77-80 backer board, but styled them after the 88-91 Suburban pockets with a flap on top. He used some left over vinyl I had so they are a perfect match to the seat.

I layed them out in the sun, and they are much smoother now. I "really" like the way these turned out.

[N2TRUX]

We diligently installed all of the new pieces. The Sculpt Garage stitched seat was enhanced by accessories that were fitting properly, and color matched as well. I topped it all of with a new LED dome light so I can enjoy this view after dark as well. The interior is completed for now. I have a couple more updates I'm working on, but those will have to wait till after C10s in the Park.


Interior by-
Brothers Truck Parts- Dash pad, A/C vents, arm rests, bezel, carpet.

Precision Replacement Parts- Door and window seals

Sculpt Garage- Recovered seat

Restomod Air- HVAC system, Membrane thermal barrier

Retro Sound- Reciever, speakers, kick panel pods.

www.73-87chevytrucks.com- Headliner

Snowden Supply- Seat Vinyl

[N2TRUX]

With the interior completed for the moment, it was time to go back under the hood. Chris and i have been diligently working to lay out the RestoMod A/C system. The lines exit the firewall in a tidy manner, but it becomes a mess from there.

We started with the mounting points of the condenser. I was torn between mounting it asymmetrical to allow more space for lines, or centering it up and creating a path that would work. Ultimately my OCD kicked in and I had to center it.

[rustytruck50]

That interior is beautifully done, Ken!!!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

That interior is beautifully done, Ken!!!

Thank you sir.

[N2TRUX]

Now that the position was determined, I could mount the drier and route the soft lines. I ended up making templates for hard lines to exit from the grill area. I used soft brake line to create a pattern. These will be sent to RestoMod Air along with the soft lines to have the hose ends crimped. Note this this was during mock up. The line on the top right was not in position. I didnt have the correct hole say at this point.

[N2TRUX]

With the hard line routing determined we turned our attention to the soft lines. There is really not much you can do with these to make them pretty. We routed them as cleanly as possible. I will had line clamps later to clean it up a bit more.

[Advanced Design]

The interior and line routing look great! Good call on centering the condenser...lol.

[N2TRUX]

I'm trying a new paint formula from Krylon. The last several versions of Krylon ColorMaster satin black absolutely sucked. In desperation for something better I switched to Krylon Rust Protector satin enamel. The sheen is much more like semi gloss than satin, but it lays down easy and its not water thin. I was actually able to paint the radiator with out runs or fisheye.

[N2TRUX]

I shipped all the lines to Restomod Air to be crimped, so I'm working om small parts till they come back. I had to replace the old fan and clutch. Not only did it die in the water pump failure, the Eddie Motorsports S Drive uses a reverse rotation water pump. I ordered an LT1 set up that matched the specs of my old fan.

[N2TRUX]

Here was my opportunity to test out the new Krylon. It laid down really smooth, and was fairly quick to dry. It did require over night curing before handling after the second wet coat.

[N2TRUX]

Of course I had to add a bit of detail to the boring bolts that held the pieces together. I picked up some stainless button heads and washers. After a quick pass through the polishing process, they were good to go.

[N2TRUX]

With the fan assembled I moved on to the radiator. I removed all of the factory stickers, and plugged the inlet holes. I straightened the fins that were distorted from shipping and wiped it with brake cleaner. It took a few passes to get even color on the fins, but it looks much better now.

[N2TRUX]

With the fins painted, and the paint cured I masked them off and added cardboard protection. The tanks were painted and left to cure over night. The new formula Krylon is definitaly shinier, but still has a nice clean look.Its not as porous, so I think it will be less prone to absorb oil and dirt.

[N2TRUX]

I spent the long weekend prepping and painting the block. I was able to blend it so I didnt have to paint the entire assembly. Once again, I stripped it down and scuffed it clean. With the surface prepped, I laid down a few coats of Dupli-color Universal silver. This is a very close match to the original color and its so much cheaper than loading my paint gun.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I spent the long weekend prepping and painting the block. I was able to blend it so I didnt have to paint the entire assembly. Once again, I stripped it down and scuffed it clean. With the surface prepped, I laid down a few coats of Dupli-color Universal silver. This is a very close match to the original color and its so much cheaper than loading my paint gun.

Am I looking at this right? Were you successful in extracting the last bolt? I read back through and didn't see where you'd mentioned it. If so, congrats!

Great looking updates.

[N2TRUX]

With the block painted I installed the waterpump studs. I added some silicone sealer to the threads to be sure they didnt leak. The S Drive kit uses a short waterpump to allow room for the spacer brackets to go behind the pump. It adds a second set of gaskets that make me a little uneasy based on my history, but I'll get past it.

I added a thin coat of silicone sealer to the first set of gaskets and installed the brackets. Even though they were clear coated, I painted them silver to match the block. I feel it well net a smoother look once done.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Am I looking at this right? Were you successful in extracting the last bolt? I read back through and didn't see where you'd mentioned it. If so, congrats!
Great looking updates.

My appoligies, i thought i had covered that.
Yes, I managed to resolve my broken bolt issue. I had a friend reach out to me offering the use of some drill bits he had bought that claimed they would drill through "anything" . He had seen them demo the "Bad Dog" brand bits at a car show. They were drilling holes in a file with them so and carry a lifetime warranty.

I was skeptical, but will to try anything at this point. There were some intense moments as I worked my way slowly through the broken EZ out and drill tip. With plenty of lube and the loss of one bit tip, I made it through.

Now that I had a hole through the old bolt, I "assumed" the new EZ out would remove the remains, and I was wrong. I let it soak overnight once again in Penetrol, and applied heat the next day. The broken bolt would not budge.

Rather perplexed, I came up with a new plan. I bought a fresh tap, and slowly cut the old bolt out as I cut fresh threads. I was able to create at least an inch of good threads, so I called it done.