White Smoke coming out Right Bank...Need some help Please!

[truckdude239]

i normally use felpros perma-torque head-gaskets on my stock builds, be sure to replace the intake gaskets

[Mr-Jack]

that's what i used when i put it back together...and i also replaced all the gaskets when i put it back together. i never reuse gaskets.

[68gmsee]

You did good Mr-Jack! Regardless of what happens you have learned some valuable info about these old trucks. And, whether the new is good or bad you couldn't drive it like it was without doing further damage.

Yeah, you spent a lot of pita time and some dough but the experience is invaluable.

Good luck...

[Mr-Jack]

Thanks man...I had planned to take it out for a spin today, but ended up going to the mother in laws house this afternoon to hang out. I did manage to get the truck back together and fired it up...scared the crap outta me, cause i forgot to connect the exhaust pipes to the headers....by the time i figured out what was going on, I started it back up to enjoy the straight open sound...sounded like a drag car...got the right exhaust hooked up, and had to shower and leave.

so tomorrow, i have to connect up the left exhaust pipe, and do some tuning. Hopefully i don't have a timing issue now. when i pulled the dizzy, i made my marks, and had the #1 at tdc, when i stabbed it, the rotor was off and i made sure the #1 was at tdc...it was still there, hadn't cranked the motor or turned it manually...the dizzy was in the right spot, but the rotor had moved...IDK...i'll take care of that tomorrow tho.

Sure was fun doing all this tho...especially hearing the truck wide open lol. Plus i learned a lot. still aint out of the woods yet, but looks like a tree line coming up.

Thanks again y'all...
Jack

[Mr-Jack]

Ok...so, I got the timing set, the coolant system flushed, and the valve lash close, small tick in the left side head, i'll fix that, but runs good and strong. Smoked initially out of the right bank, i guess there was still a little coolant in the cylinder and after about 15 minutes, no more smoke.

This is the truck my wife and I had our first date in. Today she is 8.5 months pregnant, and even though she's not moving around too well, she still got in the newly lifted truck with me and we took a drive.

First attempt failed...turns out the clutch linkage was falling apart, i had to go in reverse all the way back to the house and adjust it.

Second attempt was a great succuss. Good clutch pressure now that the linkage is installed LOL. She trusted me and my mechanical skills enough to get in the pickup and chance getting stuck on the side of the road LOL. Good thing I didn't screw up.

I am not sure if my charging system is messed up or not tho. It doesn't want to start right off. New plugs, new wires yesterday, and the starter seems to bog a bit but eventually turns over. not sure if my alternator is too tight, or if my starter is goin cause of all the cranking. I took that alternator to the store, and they told me they couldn't test it cause they couldn't figure out what type it was. I was pretty frustrated. I might let some slck out of the belt a bit and see if it helps, or if someone knows something i should know...feel free to chime in. I'm just happy to have her running without a smoke screen now!

Thanks fellas for all the assistance.

Jack

[68gmsee]

Basically the alternator should put out at least 13.5 to 14 vdc -give or take- while the engine is idling. The battery can be taken in for testing and if they both test good, check the voltage at the starter. If it still is slow and has weak cranking you may be looking to replace it.

If you do buy one get the complete unit -starter and solenoid. I believe they're around $50 at Auto Zone.

[Mr-Jack]

voltage coming to the starter should read around 11.4 volts right?

[Mr-Jack]

also as far as the heads go, the info i could find on them are as follows
Casting Number - 3973487X
CID - 350
Year - 68-73
Valves - 1.94/1.50 2.02/1.60
Additional comments - 76cc X cast 10cc's

My question is...are they 1.94 or 2.02? i know it's a small differance, and since it's not in a race car running open headers, i wouldn't feel the differance between the two, but since it is an X cast, how relevant are the additional comments?

[GASoline71]

No way to know unless you measured the vavles when you had them off. I had the same exact heads that came stock on my 1972 GMC. Still got 'em.

The X means they have a slightly larger intake runner from the factory. Prolly what the 10cc's means. Mine are 1.94's. If they were a smaller chambered head, I would have had them made into 2.02's.

Gary

[Mr-Jack]

Reason i ask, is i'm trying to find a mild cam for it, and would like to see what my options were. motor seems to be pretty stock as far as i can see, and i haven't broke into the bottom yet, but i would like the nice lobe sound and something that isn't going to hurt my motor.

[GASoline71]

A Comp Cams XE 268 is a good all around cam for stockish engines that will give a good boost in HP and TQ. The Lunati Voodoo 60102 is pretty much the same cam.

Stay away for the Comp Cams "Thumpr" series. All sound... no balls...

Gary

[Mr-Jack]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

A Comp Cams XE 268 is a good all around cam for stockish engines that will give a good boost in HP and TQ. The Lunati Voodoo 60102 is pretty much the same cam.

Stay away for the Comp Cams "Thumpr" series. All sound... no balls...

Gary

is this the cam you're referring to...digging into the motor more now and looking to upgrade a little.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...68H-10_001.asp

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

[Mr-Jack]

I'm assuming those are hydraulic flat tappet cams right?

[GASoline71]

Yup... if you want retro fit roller cam and lifters... you're lookin' at $600 bucks.

Gary

[Mr-Jack]

well, that will all come after i get to the shop, but for now, i'll be looking at options for the next month. wanna get ready to do the bottom when i pull the motor and drivetrain out at the new shop.

Not really concerned about the money, just want something that is low maintenance and reliable...oh and pretty sweet sounding and perfomance is a plus too. so if the extra money for a nice roller cam and lifters is better, and something i can do in my own shop, then i'm down with that.

[Mr-Jack]

also i figured out a little more about what the problem was for anyone that is searching the forums...one of my buddies and i were in the shop bench racing one day and started talking about the problems i was having. Told him about the history of the truck and he immediately started talking about symptoms i had experienced. Had some smoke, strong gas smell, backfire and fuel problems. Turns out i burnt out the power valve in the carb and it was just dumping fuel like crazy. Told me to get a jet kit and start doing some tuning. Also since the intake manifold was cracked and someone before me had JBwelded around the alternator mounting bolt that it was time for a new manifold. Edelbrock Performer RPM Dual Plane. Going to do some port matching. And is assisting with getting the springs right in the dizzy. lots of tuning but we're thinking in the next month with frequent tuning adjustments that this thing will be running like a dream.

Also one thing he didn't like about the intake manifold was the rubber gaskets i used from the kit i bought on the front and the back side. So when i replace the manifold, He's suggesting that i don't use the rubber gaskets. Said with heat, they can cause warping and has always used hight temp silicone gasket maker.

Any pros or cons to this theory that y'all know about?

Jack

[Steinerj56]

I'm still learning myself...

From everyone I have talked to RTV is the best sealer for the front and back of the block/intake. I have had no issues with any leaks yet from this.

Only thing I will say from experience... Make sure after it is driven, warmed up fully, then cooled down to recheck the torque on the intake gaskets. That is what I found to be my issue after my fresh engine rebuild.

Had smoke out of my left side exhaust and it sounds similar to yours. I decided to do both head gaskets and intake gaskets cause I had already purchased them but the intake bolts were on the loose side so make sure to recheck the torque.
No problems since and after timing set, engine fires right up and lovin every minute of it since!