Dropmember in a 69 C10

[smbrouss70]

I do think it's a good price just for the engineering that went into, but unfortunately I don't have the dough right now. I have started a "dropmember savings fund" though...

[PBFAB.COM]

Should I PM you an account # to use for your deposits?!

[PBFAB.COM]

I have a few pics of the dropmember in a small floor 69 running a 350 th400 combo. This gives an idea of where the motor is "relocated" to, and shows some of the clearances.
A couple things to clarify... the dropmember is a bolt in crossmember designed to convert to rack and pinion, and with the right tire/spindle combo the frame may be placed on the ground. With this said, there are still other modifications needed to allow one of these trucks to lay completely on the ground. The dropmember takes care of the front, but driveshaft clearance and small floor cab clearance will still need to be adressed. If you have a small hump floor... you will need to change it to the bolt in large hump. If you want the rear to be as low as the front, trailing arm crossmember will need to be modified.

If you are looking at the pic of the distributor and thinking that doesn't look like it will come out... it will... if you drop the rack and pinion, unbolt the motor mounts and let the motor down 1/2 an inch. It's one of the drawbacks/compromises that happen when making these changes. (I feel bad for the guy who stabs his distributor 180 off).

I don't want the assumption being made that all you need to lay this thing out is bolt in one of these dropmembers... it will take care of the front... but there is still a lot of work to be done to get the rear all the way down.

If you aren't looking to put the truck on the ground this is still a great product that can allow a low stance and add extra front crossmember to ground clearance that is desperately needed on these trucks.

[Rokcrln]

I would recomend changing out those heads! The exhaust ports look to be a bit clogged. LOL Nice to see some more progress.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I would recomend changing out those heads! The exhaust ports look to be a bit clogged. LOL Nice to see some more progress.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Those are some World S/R Torquer heads I found on E-Bay... I thought it was wierd the shipping was so cheap!

[PBFAB.COM]

Here's some pics of the completed motor mounts for a 350.

[Hart_Rod]

How much engine vibration will you get with those mounts?

[jlaird]

couple questions: why is the motor being "relocated?" How far back is it from stock?

Why do the motor mounts look different. Is that just two different designs you are experimenting with?

[PBFAB.COM]

The engine vibration is no more than the energy suspension poly mounts (as far as I can tell... very unscientific analysis). I have been doing our custom motor mounts (for mild to mid horsepower motors) this way for a while... with no noticeable increase in vibration. I use a daystar poly bushing that has a medium hardness property to it.

I have put some miles on the 63 panel with this set-up and have zero complaints of engine vibration.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jlaird

couple questions: why is the motor being "relocated?" How far back is it from stock?

Why do the motor mounts look different. Is that just two different designs you are experimenting with?

The motor is "relocated" to give oil pan to rack and pinion clearance. I wish I had some exact numbers to give as to how far it moves from the stock location... but am yet to install one of these in a 67-72 truck that has the stock motor/ motor mounts in place, and the trucks in my stock pile are all without running gear... so nothing to compare it to. The 63 panel moved forward nearly 2 inches and up 2 inches.

If any body wants to take some pics of there "stock located" 350 with a tape measure I would be happy to make comparisons.

The motor mounts are different because the driver's side has to give room for the steering joint/shaft on the rack and pinion.

[jlaird]

Gotch ya. So what else is effected with the motor being moved? Are there any issues with the driveshaft length?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Gotch ya. So what else is effected with the motor being moved? Are there any issues with the driveshaft length?

Driveshaft length will be effected, as will existing exhaust... that was the case with the 63 Panel.

[jlaird]

A driveshaft can be shortened, right? Is that a costly thing?

[dwcsr]

it s hould be reasonable to shorten and balance it. I had a complete shaft made with 1350 joints and the nitrous slip yoke for $395 that included shipping from ny to houston. So i would think that it should be about $75 - $125 for yours. go to denny's driveshaft in Kenmore its on 90 near the border. He does great work.

[jlaird]

thanks for the contact!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jlaird

A driveshaft can be shortened, right? Is that a costly thing?

The driveshaft on the panel had to be LENGTHENED a bit... it ran me $225 for a new steel unit with u-joints and yolk. If your yolk and joints are fairly new and in good condition I can't see a new steel tube with balance running for than $150-$175.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

The driveshaft on the panel had to be LENGTHENED a bit... it ran me $225 for a new steel unit with u-joints and yolk. If your yolk and joints are fairly new and in good condition I can't see a new steel tube with balance running for than $150-$175.

Thats true making it longer means replacing the tube so it get more expensive.

[ZZ4Blazer]

You had mentioned that it was narrowed 4", does that mean the track width from stock is narrowed 4"? 2" per side then?

It was also mentioned the distributor wont come out. It looks like plenty of clearance IMO. More than my S-10, and I can pull it out still. Did you try pulling the cap and rotor off? That gives a lot more clearance.

Very nice looking peice, been eyeing this thread up for a while. This is on my to do list, but not for a while. Where would we order one, when we eventually had the funds to?

[PBFAB.COM]

The overall track width has been narrowed a total of just under 4", that would be nearly 2" per side.

As for the distributor... it's close to coming out, but doesn't quite make it. That is with the cap removed and the rotor removed. It only needs between .25" and .5" more room.

When you're ready to place an order you can contact me, Nathan Porter, with Porterbuilt Street Rods. You can go to my website for the contact information. www.porterbuiltstreetrods.com

Of course if you find it easier you can send me a PM.

[Tony@AirRideTech]

Nathan....... that is a nice piece man!

[PBFAB.COM]

Thanks Tony.

[SCOTI]

Back TTT on this one.

Nathan,
Would you happen to have any other pics of the Gen I SBC/T400 combo installed w/the rack installed? The thread had a partial pic (sbc installed w/the rack in) but I'm trying to get a feel for the relative position of things on the Dropmember w/a SBC to determine if a Dropmember/BBC combo is feasible.

[PBFAB.COM]

I will have to dig through my pics tomorrow at the shop, or take some more at the end of the week... right now there is a Dropmember C4 sitting in the truck!

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I will have to dig through my pics tomorrow at the shop, or take some more at the end of the week... right now there is a Dropmember C4 sitting in the truck!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I will have to dig through my pics tomorrow at the shop, or take some more at the end of the week... right now there is a Dropmember C4 sitting in the truck!

Pics of that one would be nice too . . ......