front coilovers

[oldspowered67C10]

OK, finally got around to installing the correct springs, much better. Ride is firmer but no longer blasts through all the spring and slams on the bump-stop. The 1300# rate is perfect, spring is around 50% compressed at ride height. Ended up having to change to hiem joint style ends on the coilovers as the poly bushing were already starting to deform and I didnt trust them to last. Anyhow, I believe it to be sorted.

[Custom 68]

great news.
What does it take to convert to these hiem joints? I am thinking about that change also.

[oldspowered67C10]

Im using QA1 coilovers and apparently you can buy a kit to convert poly ones to bearing style. I just bought new coilovers as I figured I could use the old ones for the rear if I wanted.

[Custom 68]

Thanks I also have the QA1 and thought I had seen the conversion but looked the other day and did not see them again. I will probably just call.

[oldspowered67C10]

One more(and hopefully the last)update. The "bearings" shipped with the new coilovers were a joke, didnt last 10 miles. Ordered some real bearings by size from McMaster Carr, oddly enough, the bearings came in QA1 bags with QA1 part numbers on them. They are nylon lined stainless steel bearings and fit perfectly. I also got some better snap rings along with the bearings.

What gets me is why they didnt ship the coilovers with these in the first place. Looking up the specs on the MMC website the first ones are only rated to 900# while the new ones are rated to nearly 20,000#, I cant even think of a application where 900# would be adequate. Ive heard of cost savings but thats ridiculous.

Regardless, Ive put 400 miles on the new ones and everything seems to be OK so far, heres some pics.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Yeah, I'm also a bit dissapointed in the "bearings" that are included with the QA1 shocks. These should be standard equipment!

[Custom 68]

Great info here I had not ordered mine, do you have a part number for what you got? Also I will look but are there different "spacings" you know longer or wider what ever you want to call the tubes for the bolts?
Mine are still installed and had not removed them to get any measurements.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Check out QA1's web site. They have just about any spherical bearing you could want. Look for a bearing that has a 1" OD, .5 width, and a .5 bolt hole. There are many that they carry that will greatly surpass what is included with the bearing mount" shocks. I like the SLB8 Bearing, priced around $6-$7, depending on were you buy them. They have a Kevlar/Teflon liner that is self lubricating/sealing and are rated at 4662 lbs of radial load, plenty for any coil-over load. There are others with a higher rating, but also higher priced and don't have the Kevlar liner.

http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/d...-bearings.html

[Custom 68]

Thanks I remember looking thru that some. Refering to Olds post above would I assume these are better than the ones he got? I just didnt want to get into some bad ones or under rated ones from them.

That is good to know on the OD size I will check these out and see if I can get the width I need.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

The EMB8-102 nylon race bearings that come with these shocks are intended for low load applications, and the front of these trucks aren't exactly light. I'm not sure which bearings olds purchased, but as he stated, they came in QA1 packaging, perhaps they are the Stainless COM8-ss with the 19875 lb rating? There is also the NPB8-T, with a 17,900 lb rating, and is also stainless, but steps up to a Teflon liner and is self lubricating. They also step up in price to $18.33 each. The SLB8 that I mentioned above is lower on the rating scale, at 4662 lb., but have the Kevlar liner. Any of these 3 would be a huge improvement, but if you plan on any autocrossing or track time where the shocks may see more abuse, you may want to step up to the higher 2.

[Custom 68]

That sounds good, the way I made my lower mount I need a wider bearing however I can just make some spacers to go on the sides. That should not be a problem I think it will be a better setup than my urethane parts I currently have in place. This might be another winter project for me. I can pull this apart and swap them out. I do hope to do some autocrossing but not sure how much but I will figure these out.
again thanks
Dave

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

ALLSTAR makes these spacers and sell for approx. $2.50 a pair. They come in various lengths to accomodate just about any width needed and are zinc coated to prevent rust. They're available from Summit, Jeg's, Gearbox Garage, and others.

[oldspowered67C10]

I wish i had known about those, I ended up cutting out some spacers out of 5/8 tube on the lathe.

[Damien]

QA1 part number SIB8-101PK is the steel race version of the bearings that come in the QA1 shocks.

http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/c...ring-kits.html

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Originally Posted by Damien

QA1 part number SIB8-101PK is the steel race version of the bearings that come in the QA1 shocks.

http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/c...ring-kits.html

These have an OD of 1.06" which are designed for their circle track shocks which have a bigger eyelet, and are too big for the coilovers referenced in the thread. These need a bearing with an OD of 1.00". I've been using the NBP8T bearings and they fit perfectly and work great.

[Damien]

Originally Posted by GEARBOXGARAGE

These have an OD of 1.06" which are designed for their circle track shocks which have a bigger eyelet, and are too big for the coilovers referenced in the thread. These need a bearing with an OD of 1.00". I've been using the NBP8T bearings and they fit perfectly and work great.

You are correct, the SIB8-102PK will not work. COM8-102PK is the correct replacement bearing with a steel race. This bearing is 1" wide and does not need spacers.

[DREAMER1]

Updates?
Posted via Mobile Device

[oldspowered67C10]

Updates?

Not too much to say, have around 1000 miles on the new bearings and so far so good. Drove the truck for a nice curvy mountain ride, corners very flat and has alot of grip but the stock steering is way too slow for any kind of track use.

[robnolimit]

Thanks for stopping by yesterday. Nice truck, glad your getting it sorted out.

[oldspowered67C10]

Thanks for stopping by yesterday. Nice truck, glad your getting it sorted out

Thanks for the compliments and thanks for the advice regarding the quick ratio box. You have a nice operation, Ill stop by again in the future.

[chase1873]

I hate to jump im completely off topic, but I caught a glimpse of your exhaust a few pictures and years ago... Any chance you have some photos of how you routed your pipes?

[chase1873]

Originally Posted by chase1873

I hate to jump im completely off topic, but I caught a glimpse of your exhaust a few pictures and years ago... Any chance you have some photos of how you routed your pipes?

So rookie move, even though I am not a rookie anymore...

I looked through you threads and found some great exhaust shots.

Consider this a free bump.

[Custom 68]

I did swap mine out to the newer "quicker" ratio a few years ago and think it is a good move. After I got my coil overs in place and tuned up I really wanted to go with the rack and pinion but I cant swing the cost right now and also cant seem to get much feedback or input from those who have swapped. I like to drive mine so I assume this would help. Have you considered that? If you need a new steering box the cost difference will still be big but not as much if you didnt need it...
I have a handful of power tours on mine and plan on the upcomming one I will probably continue down the road i am traveling I would like to swap but we will see. I continue to tweak on the old girl.

[oldspowered67C10]

I did swap mine out to the newer "quicker" ratio a few years ago and think it is a good move. After I got my coil overs in place and tuned up I really wanted to go with the rack and pinion but I cant swing the cost right now and also cant seem to get much feedback or input from those who have swapped. I like to drive mine so I assume this would help. Have you considered that? If you need a new steering box the cost difference will still be big but not as much if you didnt need it...
I have a handful of power tours on mine and plan on the upcomming one I will probably continue down the road i am traveling I would like to swap but we will see. I continue to tweak on the old girl.
Today 01:24 AM

Thats what Rob recommended and is most likely what I will do. How much of a differnece did it make?

[Custom 68]

Mine was done several years ago, I have had this truck for 25 or so years so I have had many different iterations as I have worked on her. I dont remember all the differences but I do know the original gear box had loosened over the years as expected so that tightening up helped. I am now a turn lock to lock lower than before. I know it is a good move but I dont remember any huge drastic difference but like I said it is a few years gone back since the change, it was all way before I went to the coilovers.
I need new tires and will get the alignment checked and reset and start driving this again as the weather continues to get better.