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03-08-2013, 11:32 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 308
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
A correctly working fuel sender will read 0 ohms when empty and 90 ohms when full.
A broken sender wire (infinite ohms) will peg the gauge way past the FULL mark. My suggestion would be to pull the sender wire off wherever it's most convenient and take a reading with your DVM. If the reading you get makes sense based on the numbers listed above, it's probably a bad gauge. -G
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1972 K5 - 502BBC/4L80E/Magnum205/Mog-9s/5.26s/38" BFG KM2s Find me on INSTAGRAM @MIGHTASWELLK5 '72 K5 - Greg's "Might As Well™" Build |
03-18-2013, 10:58 PM | #2 |
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Location: Novato, CA
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
I was looking at your pics again and saw that in the following pic you don't have the fabric piece moved down to protect the window:
I didn't have them down for a little while but someone asked if the fabric sleeves were there to protect the plastic, and that seemed to make sense. I also checked pics from their site and it looks like they slid them down on each side. You may have already done it, but I figured it couldn't hurt to mention it. http://www.softopper.com/chevy-blaze...px#prettyPhoto |
03-20-2013, 10:55 AM | #3 |
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Location: Hershey, Nebraska
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
ahhhhhhh...I see what your talking about! I never noticed that, but that makes perfect sense now. Thanks you. any more advice, like How about folding it all the way down? I tried the other day but cant get it to fold up clean to fit into that cover they send into.
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03-21-2013, 09:51 PM | #4 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Sorry for the delay, had to wait until the rain stopped.
Here is how I do it to make it fully convertable: Loosen the straps on the inside (will only make it easier when you go to put it back up) Remove the Velcro pieces holding it to the bars and unbutton from the header. Lay it flat, fully extended with the back bars resting on the back. Fold in the sides and the back window, trying not to get any plastic window part exposed if possible (I leave the back window attached by Velcro only, so i unzip it and remove it from the bottom bar). Then I fold it back in half and then in quarters: At that time it's fairly easy to slide the cover over the back side. Then I fold it one more time into the cover: Then I snap the sides and then the center strap trying my best to keep the top of the cover over the whole top and tucked into the bottom so the wind won't catch it at all: The whole process is easier with two people, but it just limits the back and forth from side to side really. Last edited by ekajkrats; 03-21-2013 at 09:52 PM. Reason: added notation to folding in side windows |
03-21-2013, 09:57 PM | #5 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Thank you!! You my man are really helpful with this top!
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05-13-2013, 12:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Does your top have a gap betweem the vent window and windshield frame if so can you take some pics i have mine on and it sucked when it rainrd and hopefuly one day i can fix the problem lol thanks.
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1972 gmc jimmy project comin soon ( jus a sin ) 1959 chevy apache shortbed fleetside (brsgrm) 1966 Chevy c30 duallie 2wd (big chief) |
05-13-2013, 11:22 AM | #7 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
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05-13-2013, 01:31 PM | #8 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Do you need the drip rail installed? (#3 from this page http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=13)
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08-29-2013, 12:25 PM | #9 |
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Location: Hershey, Nebraska
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
UPDATE: fixing the transmission cause its leaking. New powerstearing box is going on, and still no front driveshaft. Have to build a custom crossmember so the front driveshaft will be able to run to the front. Just small things now.
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01-18-2014, 10:14 PM | #10 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Got a wire gremlin that needs fixed now. Going down the road with the headlights on hitting bumps in the road will cause the turn signals to flash on and off. Thinking maybe a short someplace? both of them do it, but not at the same time. Going to trace wires im thinking, if anyone has any ideas, id love to hear them!
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03-23-2014, 11:19 AM | #11 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Beat me to it haha. You don't even need a screw driver to carry around. I got lazy usually during the summer at the lake and used a quarter or some other coin from my pocket or cup holder and used it to take those two screws out. Then like stated before you can undo the wing nuts up at the top and that bar comes out. Only I slide mine between the side panel and the back seat.
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03-23-2014, 11:59 AM | #12 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
nice !!
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03-23-2014, 06:37 PM | #13 |
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Location: Cranbrook, BC
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Great looking Blazers guys.
Think I need to order one of those tops this spring. |
05-06-2014, 09:30 PM | #14 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Got the custom cross member built and will soon have 4wd again! Took it out of the back shop and spent a couple hours washing, vacuuming, detailed, and waxed before it starts driving to the lake every day.
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05-07-2014, 01:01 AM | #15 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Man, that's a great looking Blazer. You guys inspired me. Just received my Softop this week. Have to get the brakes finished first, but it will be on soon enough.
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05-17-2014, 11:01 PM | #16 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
UPDATE:got the driveshaft built and installed.
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09-14-2014, 07:04 PM | #17 |
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
Nice build.
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03-08-2018, 08:05 AM | #18 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hershey, Nebraska
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Re: My '72 Blazer project.
It’s been a few years now and have questions for you engine guys. What’s it take to swap a LS1 where a 5.3 used to be? I’ve heard it’s pretty easy to do, just put the intake and oil pan/pickup tube from the truck engine onto the LS1. But want to get some info on engine mounts, wiring/connectors, etc.
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