1988 R30 Crew Soon to be Dropped

[Ghostwhite]

Started on the DM.







The stock uppers suck.



The uppers use a double threaded sleeve instead of a rubber bushing and they are a pain to install.





I had enough cheater bar to lift my welding table up.

[COS399]

Who did you get the cross member from and how much? It looks nice.

[Ghostwhite]

Crossmember is from Porterbuilt Fabrication, you can find them at PBFAB.com.

Nate and crew do great work!

[Ghostwhite]

I am missing the steering notches up front for the DM so I'm waiting for Nate to get back to me on that. After they go in I can install balljoints in the arms, install the rack and get the front wheels back on.

Once the wheels are on I am going to slide the rear axle out and lay the truck down flat and see what I need for clearance. It looks like I may still have to Z the frame up to 2" to get the crossmember up higher in front for the body to lay out completely, the DM appears to hang down about that much further than the lowest portion of the newly clearanced frame rails. The frame should be level with the bottom of the cab but the tape measure will definitely be jammed up everywhere possible before any cutting.

[tinydb84]

You will need a small Z to lay flat. Some people do the 2x4 and cut the top of the frame instead of the bottom. Either way works.

[Ghostwhite]

Yup, it was expected. I have seen a truck or two that did not require a Z for whatever reason but its definitely not the norm.

[SCOTI]

I recall PB was planning to make a new C30 based DM that was more like the 'Touring' style C10 units where things weren't raised as much thus not requiring steering rack notches.

How much did you trim of your rails? My x-member is raised 1.5" & my CC plants the rails on the ground w/the lower a-arm pivot points just over 1" off the ground (3" spindle, bags, PB lower arms, & 29" tall front tire). I would think w/the DM you would gain 1.5" more than me in clearance (1.5 more than my notched 1.5" OE set-up) + my 1" of clearance laid out.

[Ghostwhite]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I recall PB was planning to make a new C30 based DM that was more like the 'Touring' style C10 units where things weren't raised as much thus not requiring steering rack notches.

How much did you trim of your rails? My x-member is raised 1.5" & my CC plants the rails on the ground w/the lower a-arm pivot points just over 1" off the ground (3" spindle, bags, PB lower arms, & 29" tall front tire). I would think w/the DM you would gain 1.5" more than me in clearance (1.5 more than my notched 1.5" OE set-up) + my 1" of clearance laid out.

They normally only sell the 'touring' style C30 member, this one was special ordered as an original 'extreme'/level 3 dropmember in order to allow me to lay pinch or body with the SFBD. I would have to measure the actual piece that came out but the tube that went in was 4" x 3" and tucked under the 'C' and the remainder was lopped off so somewhere between 3-4 inches.

PB confirmed that I do indeed have the extreme as intended so I should have the notches shortly or at least a measurement for typical placement. If I have to mock up everything and do my own notches I absolutely can.

I'm splitting my time between prepping a desert race truck with a friend and a few of my own jeeps so its slow going till the last race of the season next month. Should be nice and cool by then as well which will help work getting done.

[COS399]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

Crossmember is from Porterbuilt Fabrication, you can find them at PBFAB.com.

Nate and crew do great work!

Thanks for the information on them.

[Ghostwhite]

PB is getting some notches sent out, gotta get those in and mounted so I can get the DM mock up done and move on to other areas.

The frame piece I removed was right around 4" tall and some quick and dirty measurements put my remaining frame lower edge pretty much with the pinch weld. That should work but if I feel like going lower with the body I can take a little out of the body mount bushings if needed.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

PB is getting some notches sent out, gotta get those in and mounted so I can get the DM mock up done and move on to other areas.

The frame piece I removed was right around 4" tall and some quick and dirty measurements put my remaining frame lower edge pretty much with the pinch weld. That should work but if I feel like going lower with the body I can take a little out of the body mount bushings if needed.

4" from the bottom portion of the rail should be enough to plant the body. When I built my trans x-member, I started w/a C10 unit I already had & added 2" to the height to match the C30 rail height.

4" should have you planting the pinch w/room to go. I'll have to re-measure mine & see how far the rockers are from the ground just to make sure of my math.

[Ghostwhite]

Took some additional measurements today and my Dropmember is lower than the frame rails under the cab by 1.5"-2".

Got new balljoints pressed into my lower arms and bolted to my uppers. I need to run my spindles down to the machine shop to get the steering arms drilled out to 5/8".

Few more things on the front and the bed can come off, that will be tricky.

[Ghostwhite]

Received my steering notches, will get those in soon.

Next hurdle is the spindle steering arm. The steering kit from PB converts to a heim/rod end with a 5/8" bolt instead of a TRE but the C30 steering arms are a little larger taper than 5/8" already. I emailed PB about it right away.

[Ghostwhite]

I got the bed hauled off to my storage.







Got the steering notches in and put the front member back in.



Then I mated the body back up and laid it out.







But low just isn't low enough.....





Rear bumper is planted and the rear corner of the cab pinch seam is touching the ground. I don't think I'll be able to take enough out of the body bushings so the frame needs a little Z. Not unexpected but yeah, not what I wanted.

I've started removing un-needed frame mounts, these rivets suck. Also a good time to re-organize the garage and clean up all the crap that came off the truck and is not going back on.

[SCOTI]

I just don't get doing all the work it takes just to lay the body. You'll be lower vs guys like me, but you won't be any lower than others that did the same.

What drives you to do the extra work? Low is low to me. But.... the body on the ground means zero to me because the truck is sitting still. Just curious to understand.

[Ghostwhite]

I did exactly that on the toyota that's hauling the bed because it is more of a driver, no body mods and no real frame mods up front, just bagged.

In the dually's case, I feel if I'm going this far I might as well do the little extra and go to the pinch. I will also allow me to ride lower(visually according to the body) without scraping the frame. I could probably shave a little out of my body bushings too, I might do that with the stock bushings and see what happens. I planned on replacing them anyway so a little experiment can't hurt.

Edit: I can't shave the body bushings, the bed and cab use different style mounts and there is no way to get the bed low enough.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

I did exactly that on the toyota that's hauling the bed because it is more of a driver, no body mods and no real frame mods up front, just bagged.

In the dually's case, I feel if I'm going this far I might as well do the little extra and go to the pinch. I will also allow me to ride lower(visually according to the body) without scraping the frame. I could probably shave a little out of my body bushings too, I might do that with the stock bushings and see what happens. I planned on replacing them anyway so a little experiment can't hurt.

I get it (kind of). But just like you mentioned, there's that pinch weld. Keeping up w/the Jones'.....

I do agree that once you shave the bottom of the rail you'll gain some clearance for sure. I love the effort & all you've done so my bet is you'll nail it.

[slammed427]

Sweet build. I'm not into diesel's but the rest of it is where I'd like to go with mine some day.

[Ghostwhite]

Originally Posted by slammed427

Sweet build. I'm not into diesel's but the rest of it is where I'd like to go with mine some day.

Thanks.

The decision to go diesel was made once I decided I wanted to be able to drive this thing longer distances. I considered doing a big turbo on the 454 along with a few things to make a 'junkyard big power' rig but there isn't anything economical about that. I'd rather build a C10 in that direction.

[slammed427]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

Thanks.

The decision to go diesel was made once I decided I wanted to be able to drive this thing longer distances. I considered doing a big turbo on the 454 along with a few things to make a 'junkyard big power' rig but there isn't anything economical about that. I'd rather build a C10 in that direction.

I'm planning on fuel injection, overdrive and some freeway gears for mine. If I get well into the teens for mileage I'm happy. I'm already pulling 12 mpg on the highway, so that bunch of mods seems to be a good recipe to get what I want out of it.

[Ghostwhite]

Well I guess I should have paid a little more attention! I just figured out that the rear end under my dually was not actually a 14Bolt axle but instead a D70. I really don't know how I managed this as I know they came in other configurations besides the 14B and I looked at it a couple times and I've read the 14b bible over on pirate4x4 a few different times.

This may put me in a bind if I can't find some DRW hubs to go on my SRW 14b(triple confirmed now!!!) but we shall see what my final widths come out to with the hubs I have already. Only other conflict would be the axle brackets for my 4 link which are for the D70 has 4 inch tubes compared to 3.25" on the 14B.

I have read that the D70 might share the same DRW hubs as the 14B so I have some investigating to do there, I'm going to tear down my D70 and measure them and hopefully all the new bearings I have will fit.

I have been getting the front end together, cleaning up my brake gear and painting the drop spindles and new rotors.

[Dieselwrencher]

Sweet project you have going on and great work! You will be so much happier you got the dodge donor. That will save you some pesos and work too. I know a guy here in Iowa that had a lot of CC 14 bolts. I can call and see if he will sell just hubs off one if you need. Keep up the great work!

[DblTrbl]

What are your plans for the rear of the frame? It looks like you ended the 3x4 under the cab. Do you intend to tie that in with the notch somehow?

I'm getting ready to start on the rails under the cab on mine. I cut the lower on my notch to receive the rail under the cab at a straight shot, so I plan to lop off the lower portion of the frame all the way back (from the firewall to the notch). The upper portion of the stock frame will be all that remains once its done. Do you plan to retain more of the stock frame between the cab and the notch?

I decided to put my bags on the top tube of the four-bar, which actually interferes with the stock frame, but with the straight 4x3 rail, I can cut out the area that it interferes and have plenty of room. (Kinda hard to explain without a pic, but I'm not quite there yet...lol)

The only thread that I've found that anyone did a SFBD with some clarity was "Dool Eh!" I'd like to make sure that there isn't a better way before I cut too much.

Yours is looking really good BTW. Taking notes as I progress on mine...

[Ghostwhite]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Sweet project you have going on and great work! You will be so much happier you got the dodge donor. That will save you some pesos and work too. I know a guy here in Iowa that had a lot of CC 14 bolts. I can call and see if he will sell just hubs off one if you need. Keep up the great work!

Thanks! I quickly realized the benefits of having the 3/4 ton donor and am very please I was able to find that deal when I did. I am pretty sure I can use the Dana 70 hubs, if that doesn't work out I'll let ya know.

Originally Posted by DblTrbl

What are your plans for the rear of the frame? It looks like you ended the 3x4 under the cab. Do you intend to tie that in with the notch somehow?

I'm getting ready to start on the rails under the cab on mine. I cut the lower on my notch to receive the rail under the cab at a straight shot, so I plan to lop off the lower portion of the frame all the way back (from the firewall to the notch). The upper portion of the stock frame will be all that remains once its done. Do you plan to retain more of the stock frame between the cab and the notch?

I decided to put my bags on the top tube of the four-bar, which actually interferes with the stock frame, but with the straight 4x3 rail, I can cut out the area that it interferes and have plenty of room. (Kinda hard to explain without a pic, but I'm not quite there yet...lol)

The only thread that I've found that anyone did a SFBD with some clarity was "Dool Eh!" I'd like to make sure that there isn't a better way before I cut too much.

Yours is looking really good BTW. Taking notes as I progress on mine...

I think I understand the question for the most part and I took some more pictures to clarify.

This is the leg of my 4x3 that kicks up with the stock frame and ends near the rear cab mount. I haven't cleaned up the cut entirely so that will be taken care of later.

Inside view


Outside view


I did it this way to avoid having to redo the body mount(the only mount inboard off the frame) and because the frame is back to full height and 'C' by that point and should be strong enough for my uses.

I am going to plate in the area dotted in red to fully box the modified portion of the frame at the rear as indicated in this pathetic drawing, similar to what I will do up front when the Z is finished.



This picture shows the rear portion of the frame after the cab.



My initial plan is to leave this area alone between my 4x3 and the soon to be notch.

If I understand you correctly you will continue the 4x3 tube thru the body mount and along the top of the frame all the way to the notch(both sides) as indicated in green here and remove anything below the 4x3 as indicated in blue.




I don't think this would hurt anything but if I was going to do more I would just add the tube to the notch and not worry about cutting the blue area out as It has more than an inch of clearance before it would interfere with the ground.

[DblTrbl]

This may illustrate a little better what I'm trying to say. See how his rails are straight from the Z to the notch? He lopped off the lower frame all the way back.