American in Austria 83 Build

[44boggers]

Hey guys, not much going on. I did get my Lee steering box and pump the other week which I finally put on. Of everything I am looking forward most to feeling the difference in the steering is on the top of the list.

I spoke with CPP about the shock alignment issue. There wasn't much help there. They simply said they set ups they have on the show room floor also have the same cocked angle. I really feel that CPP made an error with where they located the lower shock mount. Either way I decided to tighten down the shock and see how it looks. It is still very much on an angle which you will see in the pics. I guess my only concern was somehow bending the shocks shaft in time.
Other issue I am having is with my front Wilwood hub dust caps. No matter what the dust caps will not press on. I have contacted Wilwood but they said these are the only caps they have. I asked them to try to install a set at the factory and let me know if they succeed before sending me another set of caps. It looks like the bevel leading up to the end of the cap is to wide for the hub not allowing it to press on. No matter how hard I hit the cap with a socket it will not press on. I can simply knock it off with my hand. Any suggestions? I have tried shaving the bottom of the cap thinking it was bottoming out but that is not the case. Pics below.

Next thing on the list is to get a few of the engine parts powder coated (pulleys, brackets ect..) Completely finish my exhaust which entails finish welding the mounts that connect the front half of the exhaust to the back half of the exhaust. Grind that all clean so the air flows nice and reinstall it.

I wont get started on the body work until mid april or so. But I am looking forward to it. I am still throwing around the idea of getting the cab acid dipped and then E coated.
Till next time.

Paul

[96twodoor]

Good job Sir! I know its got to be difficult to put something like that together over there.

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by 96twodoor

Good job Sir! I know its got to be difficult to put something like that together over there.

Thanks buddy. not the easiest but im making it work. Just found out CPP sent me the wrong idler arm. They sent me one for a 66-82. I guess the hole diameter changed in 83. They wouldnt send me a new one, so I need to try to find one here in austria which is probably not possible. So Ill have a buddy send me one from the US i guess. CPP said that since its past 30 days of purchase and I have no proof that I told them it was an 83 they cant do more than just give me the jobber price. Wasnt worth the battle. Just will find a different vendor for the future.

Anyway. next steps on the build will take place in mid april, when i get to work on the body. Looking forward to that actually.

Paul

[LT7A]

Glad to hear you got it figured out. That's very short-sighted on the part of CPP. Info like this registers with me and affects who I buy things from in the future. I'm sure I'm not the only one who thinks like this, so thanks for letting us know. Good luck, and keep at it. It's cool to see the updates.

[44boggers]

Don't want to make this thread about any vendor bashing, just sharing my experience. I have actually heard negative things about their customer service in the past, so I was actually prepared for something like this. If it wasnt a $30 part and more in the 100 plus range I probably would have fought it. But not worth my time or energy over 30 bucks.

Wont be any updates for at least a month. I have a baby coming at the end of the month. But my little lady said I should have plenty of time to work on the truck during the day when they are sleeping. Hopefully that is how it goes

[ACS]

Great build. Interesting info on the CPP stuff. Seems this isn't the only story of I'll-fitting or incorrect parts.

I don't know much about their parts across different body styles, but is it possible you have the wrong front arms and that's why the springs don't fit quite right and the shock mounts are off?

[JoeinT.O.]

Wow, this is one beautiful build in a beautiful place! Good luck with the delivery! Hope all goes well. I do have a question about when you got the frame powder coated: did you take all the cab mounts and cross members off completely or was it still partially assembled? Thanks in advance. Joe

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by ACS

Great build. Interesting info on the CPP stuff. Seems this isn't the only story of I'll-fitting or incorrect parts.

I don't know much about their parts across different body styles, but is it possible you have the wrong front arms and that's why the springs don't fit quite right and the shock mounts are off?

I should check on this, but my understanding is that the control arms are all the same from the 60's through the 80's.

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by JoeinT.O.

Wow, this is one beautiful build in a beautiful place! Good luck with the delivery! Hope all goes well. I do have a question about when you got the frame powder coated: did you take all the cab mounts and cross members off completely or was it still partially assembled? Thanks in advance. Joe

Thanks buddy. When I powder coated the frame I had all the cross members off except for the very rear cross member and I just used a piece of flat steal to keep the frame together in the front. But I used some nuts to raise the steal off the frame in order to coat as much as possible. When it was done I just taped off the area and painted the small bit of frame where the nuts were sitting on the frame. I kept all the cab mounts on. Probably would have been a good idea to knock the rivets off the cab mounts and shackle hangers to get everything powder coated and then bolted them back on. Next time

[JoeinT.O.]

Thank-you!

[44boggers]

Not to much to update, but an update nonetheless. So I sorted out my idler arm problem. I actually found my original idler arm which looks like it was replaced not all that long ago (paint still on it). So instead of trying to find one in Austria which would probably be impossible. I figured out I would clean the original up, paint it and call it good. Once everything is on the ground and steering is completely hooked up I will check to see if there is any play in it.

Other than that I ditched the original exhaust clamps I had (which were supposed to be the cats ass). I could not get them tight enough to where the exhaust wouldnt move anymore. So Instead of using the ugly ass u bolt clamps (no offense to anyone that uses them, I have plenty of times) I figured I would try a flange set up. Found some flanges, cut the exhaust so it was flush with the muffler, welding them on, inside and out, ported the inside of the exhaust (so I can get max airflow out of my 305 , bolted it up and it should be good.

Thats all for now folks.

Thanks

Paul

[MikeB]

Was just going thru this thread and saw where you used CPP spindles. Let us know how they work out. I used a few of their products in a 55 Chevy but typically they were ill-fitting and used cheesy hardware. Here's an example of problems folks have had with their Chinese parts.

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168387

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168354

Hate to think the spindles are attached to their steering knuckles that poorly!

I just bought a pair of Western Chassis spindles for my 82 C10, so we'll see how they work out.

Why do we refer to steering knuckles as spindles, anyway? I guess it like saying "rims" instead of "wheels".

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Was just going thru this thread and saw where you used CPP spindles. Let us know how they work out. I used a few of their products in a 55 Chevy but typically they were ill-fitting and used cheesy hardware. Here's an example of problems folks have had with their Chinese parts.

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168387

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168354

Hate to think the spindles are attached to their steering knuckles that poorly!



Why do we refer to steering knuckles as spindles, anyway? I guess it like saying "rims" instead of "wheels".

I just bought a pair of Western Chassis spindles for my 82 C10, so we'll see how they work out.

That is all pretty interesting. When I first bought this kit I did not realize their reputation. The parts I have from CPP are the following. Spindles, tierods, springs and upper and lower control arms.

I am not that impressed with the geometry of the lower control arms in regard to the shock mount. They know it does not line up well and dont seem to care as it has not changed even though the truck on their show room floor has the same alignment issue.

To be honest I am not sure what I will do with all the CPP gear. I am almost tempted to replace all of the CPP parts with something made in the US and has a solid reputation. Maybe I am overreacting, but when it comes to steering I would rather spend more cash if i have to.

Thanks for your response and now completely have me second guessing my set up

[44boggers]

Hey guys, I got a question regarding the bed rails on my pickup. Is it normal that the tail end of the rails dip down? Meaning they are not flat all the way to the tail gate (pics attached to clear it up). Also is there a way to adjust the tailgate height. The passenger side is a bit low but i can pull the tailgate up to make it level. Perhaps the "pins" where the tailgate sits has worn out? Is that possible and is it possible to replace them?

Thanks guys. Here comes some pics.

Paul

[44boggers]

Here are a few more pics. Im not sure if the rear of the bed rail naturally drops down, since they both seem to do the same thing.

Thanks for any thoughts

Paul

[44boggers]

to the top. Any ideas guys?
Thanks
PAul

[LT7A]

I'm guessing that's normal on the bed rails, especially being that it's consistent from side to side. I have an eye for detail and I've never noticed that on mine. As far as the tailgate, did you check to see if there is room for adjustment on the mounting hardware? I've never had that issue with a tailgate but I can see why you'd like yours to line up better. Good luck man.

[Mr.Chevy4x4]

You do nice work sir! Keep it going!

Mike

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by LT7A

I'm guessing that's normal on the bed rails, especially being that it's consistent from side to side. I have an eye for detail and I've never noticed that on mine. As far as the tailgate, did you check to see if there is room for adjustment on the mounting hardware? I've never had that issue with a tailgate but I can see why you'd like yours to line up better. Good luck man.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll Check to see if I can adjust any of he hardware.

I was hoping to get some pictures of other peoples bedrails to see if theirs lay flat or drop down like mine. I'm gonna start my body work soon so I don't want to try to shape any metal if it's not necessary.

Thanks guys

Paul

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by Mr.Chevy4x4

You do nice work sir! Keep it going!

Mike

Thanks mike!

[ACS]

Bed rails on mine are the same. Flat up to the stake pocket, then they start to drop down like your photo.

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by ACS

Bed rails on mine are the same. Flat up to the stake pocket, then they start to drop down like your photo.

good to know, thanks bud!

[44boggers]

Hi guys,

I have a quick question involving window channel rust pitting. First off should i cut out any rust pitting I see even if it is very shallow. I have attached some pictures for You to see. There are obvious holes I will be cutting out and replacing with fresh metal. So should I also cut out every area where there is rust pits?

Thanks guys

Paul

[44boggers]

Got a few more things checked off the list today. Finished shaving the firewall. Filled just about all the holes except for the throttle linkage, hood pull and heater box. I decided to shave off the outer seams and weld them up. Im going with an aftermarket wiring harness so I will mount the fuse box somewhere inside and run the wires through the fender most likely.

Also welded in an original radio frame (cut it off a blazer) the previous owner must have had an aftermarket radio installed. But I plan on going with an original looking radio but with the new bells and whistles.

So next step is to take care of the windshield frame rust holes. Then I will have part of the cab bead blasted. Probably just do inside the cowl and a few parts under the dash. The rest of it I can strip off myself.

Thats all for now. Hopefully get some epoxy on this soon enough.

Paul

[44boggers]

Hey guys, quick question. Does anyone have a shot of the driverside speaker hole in the dash frame? The PO cut it out. I am guessing it is pretty similar to the passengerside speaker hole, so I can probably just mimic that lay out. Just throwing it out there in case someone has it available. Finally got the window frame finished with new metal. Next step it to start stripping all the old paint, flip the cab on its back and epoxy then undercoat the bottom.
Thanks

Paul